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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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34 Posts
2001 Range Rover 4.6 in USA.

In interest of giving back see how I created and resolved my recent Engine Disable issue.

I recently changed my coolant reservoir and had disconnnected the battery as well. Upon re-start I found that
(a) as usual the windows needed to be SET.
(b) my key fob remote would not work. However I could use the key in manual mode.

Long story but I did not get round to SETting the sunroof. I had expected the remote to "friendly sync". After 5 days it did not...I did not try to synch it manually as I just figured it would eventually synch. Anyway on day 6 my wife tells me she tried her key on the RR and she had to manually use hers to open it. (I just assumed hers would work fine). Anyway later that day she tells me the manual opening using key would now only open the Driver door and set off the alarm.

Apparently both FOBs had gone out of synch when battery was removed. (do not think it happened before).

Now I am in a pickle as I usually would use the other key to rescue me.

Having read about need to ensure ALL windows are truly locked, I finally SET the sunroof.

I resorted to the EKA method which never worked before and still did not work. Tried the usual 1515 etc. No joy. However I think I have a latch issue as I did not get any lights etc when I was performing the EKA.

I also tried the "disconnnect battery and re-attach with key in Pos II". Even left off batt for 1 hr. Did not work. Never has worked for me.

I feared that I either had no EKA code for the car or that my latch on door was not working. So I followed the below procedure that most of have likely used
""Close the car. Insert the new remote in the drivers side lock pressing and holding the button with the lock symbol. Turn the key to the right as if locking, still holding the lock button down. Hold in this position for 3 seconds. Turn back to the centre position and pull the key out - STILL HOLDING THE KEY BUTTON. Once the key is out release the lock button. "... I had to try it a few times until it worked but I held key in either lock or unlock position for almost 10 secs. Well it worked. Of course I also synched the spare key as well immediately

Lessons I learned (I think)

- Believe that key may not synch if windows and sunroof are not set.
- Needed to hold key 10 secs vs 3 secs in locked or unlocked position to work.
- If for whatever reason one of our keys goes out of synch , check your spare as well immediately

Questions I have for the dealyer tomorrow (by phone)
- Does my vehicle have an EKA

Question for anyone on forum
- Wonder if my key has the "latch" issue that some say may mean that EKA does not work. No lights or indications made when I tried the EKA. Also I recall that years ago I could close a window on the car during locking by simply holding the key in locked position ...does not seem to do that. Wonder if they are related?


R
 

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Premium Member
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2,565 Posts
You really need to read the Owners Manual and Workshop manual and these will answer many of your questions, that said the BeCM holds the handset rolling codes in RAM, so effectively as soon as you disconnect the vehicle battery, both (all) your remote handsets will lose sync.

I'd have thought if your vehicle requires the EKA, immediately upon battery re-connection you'd have 'Keycode Lockout' on your message center, I've also never 'set' a window or sunroof before entering the EKA, or handset synchronisation, I've alway been able to 'set' the windows and sunroof at my leisure.

The CDL micro-switch is the one that seems to cause all the latch problems, simply put at times it doesn't seem to positively actuate via it's long plastic lever (strengthen this part and you probably don't need a new latch). This is why you can open a door and the alarm goes off, the 'door ajar' micro-switch actuates just fine but the CDL doesn't (you would also notice none of your other doors unlock at this point, which is a big clue).

Considering this it's not difficult to imagine that if your trying to do a handset synchronisation (which is dependent also on that same CDL micro-switch, or the EKA for that matter) that perhaps it doesn't go to plan or as the manual states, and why people end up holding the key in position for longer when in reality it could just be a slight twitch or the wear in the mechanism takes up a bit of slack and then suddenly the microswitch makes the connection and you've sync'ed, its this that probably accounts for the various discrepancies and theories for the handset sync procedure. However, for me its always been exactly as described in the Owners manual, the instant the CDL micro-switch toggles the other doors unlock/lock, telling you it's sync'ed successfully.
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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626 Posts
As far the EKA code goes (assuming of course that 1515 is the EKA code for your BeCM which it should be if its NAS ) a lot of people just try to enter the 1515 by turning 1 to the left,5 to right, 1 to left & finally 5 to right. This is not the case, to begin the code you must first turn the key 4 times to the right (locked position ) and by doing this you are telling the vehicle that you intend to enter the EKA code. As soon as you turn 4 to the right then begin the code straight away by moving 1 left, 5 right, 1 left and then 5 right. To finish turn the key to the unlock position and if all the locks pop up your EKA has been entered sucessfully.
 
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