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Discussion Starter #1
So ... I don't have a garage to do my work in (unfortunately) - so I usually have to work on it where I'm not supposed to - in this case the bank parking lot that has a designated spot for my apartment.

I was changing a rear air spring tonight that had developed a leak. Bottom pin came out fine. Top pin was rusted in, broke when I tried pulling it out - but I was able to get the rest of it out with needle nose pliers.

Then the spring was stuck in place - had to use a pry bar - but didn't take much pressure to pop out.

Problem:
When fitting the new Dunlop springs - the hole for the top pin will not come all the way though the metal cutout. The air fitting comes through perfectly fine, but the hole for the pin only half way. I bought TWO new rear air springs - tried the other new one - same deal.

Then I tried fitting the torn up factory one back in and it fits just fine. I can't see any visual different between the two. I'm looking at them right now while I'm waiting for a reply - but it's 11pm here and I HAVE to do this tonight.

HELP PLEASE!!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,244 Posts
Get a Dremel tool and get rid of the rust etc around the opening for the airbag.
I had to do that on one of mine, so just did the rest before even trying to offer the bags in.
A Dremel tool with a sanding drum works perfectly.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So you think the rust around the flat mating surface where the top of the bag goes, yeah? There was a little there, I don't know if it was enough to keep it out - but I'll go dig the dremel out and try it? Any other ideas? My next step was to take the dremel to the plastic on the top of the airbag - but I'd rather not cut into the mating surface of my bags if I didn't have to.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Either or will work the same.
You can either trim around the top of the bags, or the opening they go into mate.
Now I think about it, IIRC I just trimmed the top of the bags when I did mine with Chris. He had the same issues as my first bag had, so we just "fixed" them all!
Open the hole, or trim the top of the bags,then they will go right in there :thumb:
Emergency averted.
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I CANNOT say thankyou enough. I took my battery powered dremel and cleaned away as much rust as I could AND trimmed a good portion off the top of the bag and it BARELY fit. The collet for the air was clean through with plenty of space (it always was) the hole for the clip was half way visible - maybe a LITTLE more - but the pin went through it completely and on to the other side I suppose because once it was in I couldn't pull the bag back out - I re-inflated and drove it around the block without a problem.

Do you forsee any problem with the fact the hole for the clip wasn't 100% visible as it was on the old bag? And by visible, I mean the block that passes through the mating service was only half as far through as it should have been in regards to the hole, not the air hose collet.

Man I miss having a garage.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I would keep an eye on it and check it in a couple of days. I would imagine it will poke completely through when settled in.
Oh, and you are more than welcome :thumb:

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yep - checked it this morning and it's completely settled in already! :dance:

Now that that's over, any advice for the other rusted 12 year old bags? Particularly the front, as I think I've got the rear down now - I'm not sure the other rear one could possibly be any worse.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The fronts should fit without a problem. It isn't always easy to get the lower pins in again though. It's just a caase of getting the angle correct.

That's typical of the problems when changing the rears though. Sometimes it can be easier to cut the airspring in half and fight it that way. Rusted in pins are typical. I've had to modify one airspring to fit the chassis, but like you, it was just a tiny bit of grinding off plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good to hear the fronts shouldn't be any problem really. As far as getting the rear OUT once the pins were disconnected - I went to Sears and they sell a pry bar with an adjustable head. I was able to just lock the head in a position that got me under the top of the spring and it popped right out - hardly any force at all. This being after an hour of tugging, banging, prying with a screwdriver and cussing.

Adjustable pry bar FTW:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM198324810P?keyword=adjustable+pry+bar&prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
 
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