Consider me subscribed. Having the exact same issue with my 2011 RR S/C. It is the onle thing on my 2011 thats doesn't work. Everything else is tip top. Do any lights illuminate on your dash? Mine makes zero noise and no lights. Also, I checked the fuse in the rear boot and it was fine. I beleive it was in spot number 6.
Emergency parking brake repair 2010 Range Rover SC LR028112
Hello i am looking for info on how to repair the EPB unit on a full sized 2010 Range Rover.
It looks like the gears have sheared.
So far the only option i have found is to buy a new control unit, about 1100.00 dollars
And it appears that the exhaust and the rear sub frame must be moved to reach this box
Part number of the EPB is LR028112.
do the repair kits for the Range Rover sport also fit the Range Rover full sized unit,
as a set of new gears is 60.00 for the sport gears but no joy on a repair kit for the FFRR
Thanks Stan
It looks like the gears have sheared.
So far the only option i have found is to buy a new control unit, about 1100.00 dollars
And it appears that the exhaust and the rear sub frame must be moved to reach this box
Part number of the EPB is LR028112.
do the repair kits for the Range Rover sport also fit the Range Rover full sized unit,
as a set of new gears is 60.00 for the sport gears but no joy on a repair kit for the FFRR
Thanks Stan
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is a long read but worth it, if it helps.
It will [eventually] get into the details of potential repair options for the PB module.
Given the amount of work involved, prior to removing a suspect PBM I advise spending a couple of bucks having someone with SDD determine whether the PBM can be communicated with as there is currently no repair available for a fried circuit board.
Rob
https://www.4x4community.co.za/foru...Module-project-this-one-does-not-end-well-yet
It will [eventually] get into the details of potential repair options for the PB module.
Given the amount of work involved, prior to removing a suspect PBM I advise spending a couple of bucks having someone with SDD determine whether the PBM can be communicated with as there is currently no repair available for a fried circuit board.
Rob
https://www.4x4community.co.za/foru...Module-project-this-one-does-not-end-well-yet
That is an obscene amount of work to get to something so silly. I'd have cut a panel out of the boot before dropping the whole rear end of the car. hahaThis is a long read but worth it, if it helps.
It will [eventually] get into the details of potential repair options for the PB module.
Given the amount of work involved, prior to removing a suspect PBM I advise spending a couple of bucks having someone with SDD determine whether the PBM can be communicated with as there is currently no repair available for a fried circuit board.
Rob
https://www.4x4community.co.za/foru...Module-project-this-one-does-not-end-well-yet
These are the instructions for removal of the EPB unit
yes its a copy and paste i take no credit for this
So I managed to get some leave for Friday morning, Jacked the fattie back up on her stands on Thursday night, and proceeded to lower the subframe once again...
1. Jack her up
2. Remove wheels
3. Remove brakes - everything
4. disconnect airlines and empty airbags - The air tank still keeps the air in the system, it just the bags that empty
5. Disconnect shock absorber
6. Remove emergency release cable - I remembered this time
7. unclip all airlines from the tub
8. get jack under the rear diff, small trolley jack does not have the correct height capacity, you need a bigger jack..
9. Loosen the 4 subframe bolts, replace two with the existing shock absorber bolts which include some spacers allowing for approx 50mm max subframe drop.
10. Say a small prayer.
11. disconnect compressor fuse & handbrake fuse - all in the boot cavity on the fattie's
12. Remove entire exhaust.
13. Drop subframe
14. Disconnect retaining clips and brackets between each of the 2 handbrake cables & rear upper control arms
15. disconnect the handbrake cable to rear backing plate bolt.
16. disconnect battery.
17. disconnect EPB module electrical plug
18. Unbolt and remove EPB module...
yes its a copy and paste i take no credit for this
So I managed to get some leave for Friday morning, Jacked the fattie back up on her stands on Thursday night, and proceeded to lower the subframe once again...
1. Jack her up
2. Remove wheels
3. Remove brakes - everything
4. disconnect airlines and empty airbags - The air tank still keeps the air in the system, it just the bags that empty
5. Disconnect shock absorber
6. Remove emergency release cable - I remembered this time
7. unclip all airlines from the tub
8. get jack under the rear diff, small trolley jack does not have the correct height capacity, you need a bigger jack..
9. Loosen the 4 subframe bolts, replace two with the existing shock absorber bolts which include some spacers allowing for approx 50mm max subframe drop.
10. Say a small prayer.
11. disconnect compressor fuse & handbrake fuse - all in the boot cavity on the fattie's
12. Remove entire exhaust.
13. Drop subframe
14. Disconnect retaining clips and brackets between each of the 2 handbrake cables & rear upper control arms
15. disconnect the handbrake cable to rear backing plate bolt.
16. disconnect battery.
17. disconnect EPB module electrical plug
18. Unbolt and remove EPB module...
I'd like to offer a secondary set of instructions...These are the instructions for removal of the EPB unit
yes its a copy and paste i take no credit for this
So I managed to get some leave for Friday morning, Jacked the fattie back up on her stands on Thursday night, and proceeded to lower the subframe once again...
1. Jack her up
2. Remove wheels
3. Remove brakes - everything
4. disconnect airlines and empty airbags - The air tank still keeps the air in the system, it just the bags that empty
5. Disconnect shock absorber
6. Remove emergency release cable - I remembered this time
7. unclip all airlines from the tub
8. get jack under the rear diff, small trolley jack does not have the correct height capacity, you need a bigger jack..
9. Loosen the 4 subframe bolts, replace two with the existing shock absorber bolts which include some spacers allowing for approx 50mm max subframe drop.
10. Say a small prayer.
11. disconnect compressor fuse & handbrake fuse - all in the boot cavity on the fattie's
12. Remove entire exhaust.
13. Drop subframe
14. Disconnect retaining clips and brackets between each of the 2 handbrake cables & rear upper control arms
15. disconnect the handbrake cable to rear backing plate bolt.
16. disconnect battery.
17. disconnect EPB module electrical plug
18. Unbolt and remove EPB module...
1.) figure location of e-brake module
2.) fit metal cutting blade to pneumatic saw
3.) cut the boot entirely out of the car
4.) success
you're all welcome.
So I read thru the entire post from 4x4 and it was very entertaining. The guy is smart and funny. In the end I wonder if mine is more simple as I stated before I receive no warning lights or any of the indicators he dealt with. If it were a pre-2010 I might think the previous owner removed the bulbs behind the instrument cluster to keep them from annoying. Its not though as its a 2011 and has the TFT screen which clearly means thats not why there are no warning lights. Guess Im off to the repair shop to see if the module can be communicated with.
I am in thew process of ordering all of the parts to do a swap
New EPB unit
New rotors,
New pads,
New E brake shoes,
and spring kit.
New EPB unit
New rotors,
New pads,
New E brake shoes,
and spring kit.
what are your symptoms?
I am in thew process of ordering all of the parts to do a swap
New EPB unit
New rotors,
New pads,
New E brake shoes,
and spring kit.
+1what are your symptoms?
And I just wanted to add, Mrmerlin....great time for a write up!
My symptoms are that my brother was sitting in my truck flipping my worn EPB on and off till it finally jammed.
At this point I have had a few issues with this unit before my Bro was left in the truck,
and i realize its time to fix it properly .
My park brake lamp is flashing constantly and i tried to move the unit with the scan tool we have at the shop its stuck
Now the new part may not last forever BUT it should last for as long as i own the truck.
And fitting all new parts should increase the chances that the system will work without going over its limit
reading this thread this would be a a good precursor to do this job.
https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...t-end-well-yet
At this point I have had a few issues with this unit before my Bro was left in the truck,
and i realize its time to fix it properly .
My park brake lamp is flashing constantly and i tried to move the unit with the scan tool we have at the shop its stuck
Now the new part may not last forever BUT it should last for as long as i own the truck.
And fitting all new parts should increase the chances that the system will work without going over its limit
reading this thread this would be a a good precursor to do this job.
https://www.4x4community.co.za/forum...t-end-well-yet
A great post with a very interesting read. I hope someone has deciphered the process of adjusting the shoes which would reduce the chance for a possible failure. To research once I repair the diff in my van
to adjust the shoes spin the star nuts till the rotors will not turn ,
then back off by 8 clicks.
Then follow the new shoes bedding in procedure. in the WSM.
NOTE I would suggest that if your fixing a EPB that you replace the shoes and rotors to make the system as new as possible.
IE you wouldnt want to use out of round rotors ,
as this will change how the shoes adjust thus possibly causing the shoes to wear out prematurely then the cables will go into fail mode
then back off by 8 clicks.
Then follow the new shoes bedding in procedure. in the WSM.
NOTE I would suggest that if your fixing a EPB that you replace the shoes and rotors to make the system as new as possible.
IE you wouldnt want to use out of round rotors ,
as this will change how the shoes adjust thus possibly causing the shoes to wear out prematurely then the cables will go into fail mode
Yesterday I had a good fortune to have a day off at the shop with a bay and a lift.
So since i had all of the parts to swap out my old EPB I went to town.
This job took me about 7 hours to complete.
I had new rear rotors new E brake shoes from Bilstien these came with a spring kit,
new EBC green stuff rear pads ,
and a new EPB unit procured from Island 4x4UK for 700.00 plus shipping.
I did run into a few snags
I would suggest to also have on hand 2 new exhaust gaskets and a new brake pad warning sensor.
The first hurdle was getting the rusted manifold nuts off.
I have a nifty induction heater for removing rusted exhaust bolts,
this worked on 3 of the 6,
the other 3 snapped off.
So after dropping the exhaust ,
i got my oxy acetylene torch and heated up the manifolds where the bolt heads are pressed in.
then got the air hammer and drove them out.
I went with removing all 6 as the 3 that had the nuts come off were in pretty bad shape.
I used a few wet rags to place them over any parts that might be damaged by heat.
Then i got 6 fresh bolts and nuts and washers , in lieu of going to the dealer to buy these bolts
this makes it easy to install and i used anti seize on the new bolts.
this caused about an hour delay to remove the exhaust and the 6 bolts.
Anyway the rest is taking things apart the same on both sides.
you will need all of 55mm drop to get to the EPB anchor bolts,
they are torx,
and make sure to drive the tool into the bolt hole or you can easily strip it.
The brake cables also have a boss that is sort of pressed into the where the cable mounts to the backing plate.
Spray PB blaster into the area where the cable comes out,of the backing plate
then after you have removed the bolt that holds the cable anchor to the backing plate.
get a small punch and drive the anchor towards the EPB unit.
NOTE if you try to pry from the backing plate side thats facing the EPB unit,
you can snap off the the boss that fits into the backing plate mounting port.
NOTE on the EPB unit,
Spray the elex connector with PB blaster then blow it dry with compressed air,
this will make it clean enough to open so you can remove the harness from the EPB unit with a long screwdriver pressed into the lock tab.
I would strongly recommend that you replace the rear rotors and shoes and pads and a spring kit whenever you have the first sign of the a parking brake failure.
This will restore the system to full function.
NOTE you will also need to unadjust the star wheels so the old rotors can easily be removed.
Put grease on every bolt you install so it will reduce the corrosion issues.
same for the cable anchor crimps at the EPB unit these are bare metal and will rust badly.
Use DC111 on the airline fittings,
black and orange are the colors to remove to empty the bags,
this after removing the RR wheel well liner.
after fitting everything back together ,
Use the tool to reset the accelerometer inside the EPB needs to be used,
then clear the codes then test the E brakes.
So since i had all of the parts to swap out my old EPB I went to town.
This job took me about 7 hours to complete.
I had new rear rotors new E brake shoes from Bilstien these came with a spring kit,
new EBC green stuff rear pads ,
and a new EPB unit procured from Island 4x4UK for 700.00 plus shipping.
I did run into a few snags
I would suggest to also have on hand 2 new exhaust gaskets and a new brake pad warning sensor.
The first hurdle was getting the rusted manifold nuts off.
I have a nifty induction heater for removing rusted exhaust bolts,
this worked on 3 of the 6,
the other 3 snapped off.
So after dropping the exhaust ,
i got my oxy acetylene torch and heated up the manifolds where the bolt heads are pressed in.
then got the air hammer and drove them out.
I went with removing all 6 as the 3 that had the nuts come off were in pretty bad shape.
I used a few wet rags to place them over any parts that might be damaged by heat.
Then i got 6 fresh bolts and nuts and washers , in lieu of going to the dealer to buy these bolts
this makes it easy to install and i used anti seize on the new bolts.
this caused about an hour delay to remove the exhaust and the 6 bolts.
Anyway the rest is taking things apart the same on both sides.
you will need all of 55mm drop to get to the EPB anchor bolts,
they are torx,
and make sure to drive the tool into the bolt hole or you can easily strip it.
The brake cables also have a boss that is sort of pressed into the where the cable mounts to the backing plate.
Spray PB blaster into the area where the cable comes out,of the backing plate
then after you have removed the bolt that holds the cable anchor to the backing plate.
get a small punch and drive the anchor towards the EPB unit.
NOTE if you try to pry from the backing plate side thats facing the EPB unit,
you can snap off the the boss that fits into the backing plate mounting port.
NOTE on the EPB unit,
Spray the elex connector with PB blaster then blow it dry with compressed air,
this will make it clean enough to open so you can remove the harness from the EPB unit with a long screwdriver pressed into the lock tab.
I would strongly recommend that you replace the rear rotors and shoes and pads and a spring kit whenever you have the first sign of the a parking brake failure.
This will restore the system to full function.
NOTE you will also need to unadjust the star wheels so the old rotors can easily be removed.
Put grease on every bolt you install so it will reduce the corrosion issues.
same for the cable anchor crimps at the EPB unit these are bare metal and will rust badly.
Use DC111 on the airline fittings,
black and orange are the colors to remove to empty the bags,
this after removing the RR wheel well liner.
after fitting everything back together ,
Use the tool to reset the accelerometer inside the EPB needs to be used,
then clear the codes then test the E brakes.
Well I got a chance to take the old EPB unit apart, what i found was that the assembly was in good condition
but after adding 12v from my battery booster box the motor began smoking.
I have to conclude that the motor has failed as it was struggling to move one way but was easier to go in the opposite direction.
I did note that of the gears look to be working fine.
but after adding 12v from my battery booster box the motor began smoking.
I have to conclude that the motor has failed as it was struggling to move one way but was easier to go in the opposite direction.
I did note that of the gears look to be working fine.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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