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Discussion Starter #1
I took the 2006 4.4L to pick up some things at the supermarket on this wet rainy morning. Went inside and came back out 15 minutes later and nothing when I turned the key. In fact the ignition switch didn’t want to turn at first.

I took the jumper pack out of the back and the voltmeter read 12.5 volts. I thought that odd since she seemed dead. Go to start the car and nothing at first (can’t turn key) and then she started, all within 5 seconds. She idles/runs fine while I packed up the jumper pack.

I put her into gear and she won’t go above 1500 RPM, it’s as if there’s some types of limiter because she isn’t straining or misfiring. Forward and reverse gears are the same.

I limped home (2 miles) at 5-10 MPH but couldn’t make it up my inclined driveway to the garage, so I parked her in the pull off area by the road.

I turned her off and now she’s dead again, no lights, nothing.

I suspect it’s an electrical problem, but what puzzles me is the fact that once she was running it would not rev above 1500 RPMs.

Has anyone seen these symptoms before?

The vehicles has 165,000 miles and was running great before this. The battery is one year old (I’ll test it anyway).
No check engine light when she was running. I’ll try to read for codes if I can get juice to flow again and turn the ignition switch on.

Very strange... and of course it’s raining and she’s 300 feet from my garage, and I’m going in for knee surgery in 18 hours.
 

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run through the electrical testing sticky. Has it been under freezing at night? Your battery may be only a year old but a corroded cable can ruin a battery in short order. So can a weak alternator, but you won' be able to test that until you are up and running.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the suggestions RRToadHall, that was my plan. While I was having a bite to eat and posting this thread I was thinking, why did the battery pack make a difference if the battery were good? I thought maybe a terminal connection were loose and clamping the jumper wire on moved it slightly.

Well, I went out with a 10mm socket and wrench and found both terminals could swivel slightly. I tightened them up and voila, she works fine.

I guess loose terminals didn’t allow the systems to draw enough current. Even though the voltage across the terminals was adequate, that does not ensure that the amperage draw is sufficient.

I still would like to uderstand why I couldn’t get more than 1500 RPMs. It must be the ECU not functioning correctly..... who knows????
 

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Hi sounds like short in the batt, the batt is a critical part in today's vehicles
Dependingbon the year of the vehicle the battery charge system may also has a electronic module so when you fit new batt you will need to reset this otherwise if will try to charge the battery as the previous one and will degrade new batt
 

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Qatar, the OP's two rigs are properly listed in his signature. Is yours?8-|=

I don't believe there are any battery modules to reset on any RR that has been in my shop. Some have an explosive positive terminal clamp that disconnects power if the SRS is triggered
 
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