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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched the depths of the forums but still haven't found an answer so I'm writing a new post. Hopefully someone has some knowledge on this issue. The car is a 1992 RRC.

I finally got around to tackling the burned out heater blower motor that I'd been putting off for the past few years. After I got the dashboard reassembled I discovered that my windows and my windshield wipers do not work. The power seats haven't worked for a while, but I'm lumping them in with everything else that doesn't work.
I'm focused on fixing one thing at a time, but I think it's interesting that the wipers stopped working at the same time the windows stopped.

Starting with the windows, I checked the switches using a multi-meter. Sure enough, there is no voltage at the switches. The switches tested fine and have good continuity.
Both window fuses in the fuse panel (C2 and C8 I beleve) are good and so are all the fuses underneath both front seats.
Next I moved onto the relays. There are two relays for the windows and they are located inside the glove box center console cubby. I tested voltage at both relays. One showed 12v one showed closer to 2v. I swapped the relays with some others in the truck and the windows still don't work.
Finally, I pulled off the one touch window lift "ECU" I cleaned all the grime that had built up on the soldered part of the board, and reinstalled it.

So, I feel like I've tried everything that I can reasonably try. I also have been looking through rave at the wiring diagrams, but haven't seen anything else to try on this circuit. I will also say that the window motors were working fine before I replaced the heater motor, so I know that's not the issues.

Any input is appreciated.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #2
I'll add some additional info on the seats.
The seats have never worked 100%, but when I first got the truck about 4 years ago, I did take apart the switches and clean them up. After that the driver's seat would move, but not the passenger seat. After some time, neither seat would work. I can jumper them directly from the battery to get them to move back and forth. When I hit the switches on the driver's side, I can hear the relay clicking, but nothing else. All fuses are in working order and everything is plugged in.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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well, check all wiring going to b1. you were playing around under the dash, something got cut
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #6
well, check all wiring going to b1. you were playing around under the dash, something got cut

Here is the page for the 1992 MY from the Rave manual. Fuse C2 and C8 control the front and rear window lifts. The relays are controlled by E6, which is under the passenger seat. E6 also supplies power to the radio, which is working fine. I believe they changed the fuse layout in '92.

Also, I have power (12V and 2V) at the relays which are in the center console. So that tells me that power is getting to the relays, but they aren't clicking. What I'm stuck on is why one of the relays only shows a reading of 2V. That might not be enough to trip the internal switch inside the relay. The other relay has 12V, so I don't understand why it's not working. I've also tried manually jumping the relay to no avail.

284792



284793
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, I have had a chance to spend some more time with the truck. The only advantage of corona is we get to spend time working on projects.
I checked the relays and I don't have any voltage coming into the trigger side of the relay (86). This is the green/pink wires in this picture.
284811


I traced that wire back to fuse E6, which supplies power to the seats, windows, radio, auto dimming mirror, etc. Not only does it not have power, but it appears to be grounded out.

So now I'm trying to trace that wire (it turns from pink/green to white/orange after the fuse) to see where it may have grounded out. Wish me luck.
That wire takes a
 

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Once when I took my dash apart...
I pinched the wires going to the speedometer houseing when I put it back together
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I got my window and wipers issues solved (still working on the seats). I feel like a total moron, but I traced the white orange from the back of fuse E6 to behind the dash. I consulted the Rave manual which showed a white/orange being a main + ign on circuit which originates at the ignition switch itself. The ignition switch is #8 on the wiring diagram below and white/orange is #165.
Then I remembered... During the dash reassembly, something happened to the ignition switch and it stopped working. I took it apart and discovered that the contacts had worn out. As a temporary measure (since I was rebuilding the dash in a borrowed garage) I wired up an ignition switch and starter button (which I will do a separate writeup on later). In the process, I had left out the white/orange connection in this circuit. I had only included the white wire (166) which has fuel injection, ECU, etc.
I had to take apart the lower dash and bridge white/orange (#165) with (#166) so that the ignition switch powers both circuits. I think the way it was before allows you to roll up your windows after you turn the car off, but I can't be sure. Either way, both circuits passed through the ignition switch in the stock setup when the car was on, so I don't think I am screwing anything up here.
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I'm going to spend some more time on the seats later this afternoon.
 

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1989 Range Rover Classic
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Ok, I got my window and wipers issues solved (still working on the seats). I feel like a total moron, but I traced the white orange from the back of fuse E6 to behind the dash. I consulted the Rave manual which showed a white/orange being a main + ign on circuit which originates at the ignition switch itself. The ignition switch is #8 on the wiring diagram below and white/orange is #165.
Then I remembered... During the dash reassembly, something happened to the ignition switch and it stopped working. I took it apart and discovered that the contacts had worn out. As a temporary measure (since I was rebuilding the dash in a borrowed garage) I wired up an ignition switch and starter button (which I will do a separate writeup on later). In the process, I had left out the white/orange connection in this circuit. I had only included the white wire (166) which has fuel injection, ECU, etc.
I had to take apart the lower dash and bridge white/orange (#165) with (#166) so that the ignition switch powers both circuits. I think the way it was before allows you to roll up your windows after you turn the car off, but I can't be sure. Either way, both circuits passed through the ignition switch in the stock setup when the car was on, so I don't think I am screwing anything up here.
View attachment 284845

I'm going to spend some more time on the seats later this afternoon.
Glad you were able to trace the wiper/window issue back, in terms of the seats, you mentioned you cleaned them, how thoroughly? (I'm not judging you, but I tried to clean mine just by spraying them and moving it back and forth and that didn't really work, only got one direction to move). I disassembled the controls completely and soaked all the springs and ball bearings and contacts in degreaser overnight, and made sure there was no bits of gunk or anything before putting it all back together (tedious, but both seats now still work perfectly 5 years later). While a complicated mechanical assembly, the design is pretty intuitive and if you take lots of pictures during disassembly its not that hard. did you verify switch continuity in the wiring from the controls when you slide them around?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I appreciate your input on the seat switched. Unfortunately, I have to put that on the back burner because I'm having new issues crop up.
After I got the wiring issues sorted with the windows, I must have run the battery down by not starting the car for very long. I ended up having to jump it because the battery was so dead. I took it on a short drive, and the CEL came on. No big deal, this comes on a lot for code 48 (I've learned to live with it). Usually this means that The ECU has reset (due to the dead battery) and doesn't know what the last position was for the idle air control motor.
I went out to the truck this morning with my laptop and the Rovergauge software. I reset the stepper motor and started it up.
I was waiting for it to get up to temperature when I decided to click the A/C lever on. Immediately the engine stalled and died. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays started buzzing, and the door chime was ringing constantly even when I turned the ignition off. Eventually the ringing stopped and I tried to turn the car on again. Right away the relays started buzzing and the engine would not turn over. The long chime was still there as well and I had to pull the battery to make it stop.
I tried turning on the car again with a spare ECU I have and the same thing happened.
So now I'm wondering what could have caused these relays to start buzzing like that, and why did this happen when I tried to turn on the air conditioning? The A/C doesn't work in the truck, but turning on the A/C makes it idle faster. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get some new relays but not sure that's where my problem is.
 

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I appreciate your input on the seat switched. Unfortunately, I have to put that on the back burner because I'm having new issues crop up.
After I got the wiring issues sorted with the windows, I must have run the battery down by not starting the car for very long. I ended up having to jump it because the battery was so dead. I took it on a short drive, and the CEL came on. No big deal, this comes on a lot for code 48 (I've learned to live with it). Usually this means that The ECU has reset (due to the dead battery) and doesn't know what the last position was for the idle air control motor.
I went out to the truck this morning with my laptop and the Rovergauge software. I reset the stepper motor and started it up.
I was waiting for it to get up to temperature when I decided to click the A/C lever on. Immediately the engine stalled and died. The EFI and Fuel Pump relays started buzzing, and the door chime was ringing constantly even when I turned the ignition off. Eventually the ringing stopped and I tried to turn the car on again. Right away the relays started buzzing and the engine would not turn over. The long chime was still there as well and I had to pull the battery to make it stop.
I tried turning on the car again with a spare ECU I have and the same thing happened.
So now I'm wondering what could have caused these relays to start buzzing like that, and why did this happen when I tried to turn on the air conditioning? The A/C doesn't work in the truck, but turning on the A/C makes it idle faster. I'm wondering if it's worth it to get some new relays but not sure that's where my problem is.
Wow that sounds like a whole can of worms. Is the compressor seized? When you flip the switch the clutch engages the compressor, so perhaps the compressor locked up and stalled the motor? (I'm not sure if that would actually happen or if the belt would just squeal like a banshee). Not sure why that would cause all the electrical gremlins though (maybe I'm just uselessly rambling). Did you still have the AC lever clicked on when you tried to restart with the spare ECU? I'm guessing you have a short somewhere, but I have no idea where unfortunately....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow that sounds like a whole can of worms. Is the compressor seized? When you flip the switch the clutch engages the compressor, so perhaps the compressor locked up and stalled the motor? (I'm not sure if that would actually happen or if the belt would just squeal like a banshee). Not sure why that would cause all the electrical gremlins though (maybe I'm just uselessly rambling). Did you still have the AC lever clicked on when you tried to restart with the spare ECU? I'm guessing you have a short somewhere, but I have no idea where unfortunately....
Yeah, this car just throws out one thing after another. I've owned it for 4 years and I've been chasing one thing after another the entire time. The A/C belt isn't even installed, so the A/C compressor couldn't have stalled the engine.
I've gone and pulled the two relays (EFI and fuel pump). Now when I click the ignition on, the door chime goes on after the normal three tones (DING DONG, DING DONG, DING DONG, DINGGGGGGGGGGGGGG). The chime stays on even after the ignition is turned off and they key is removed. It stays on until I pull the negative lead on the battery.
Additionally, I can't get the engine to crank over with the ignition on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been through RAVE a few times now. The wiring for the Audible Warning Unit is switched by "transfer box neutral switch" among other things. I went out to the truck and I can get the incessant DINGGGGGG to shut off if I put the transfercase in neutral with the ignition off. With the ignition on, it still continues to make noise. If I shift into high or low gear, then I get the noise as well.
On the starter side, I have no idea why I can't get the motor to turn. I don't think I need the EFI relay to get that circuit to connect.
 

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The chime is a small black box on the steering column at the top of the dash...
Unplug it
 

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That only solves one problem. I need to know why the box wont shut up.
I get it....but..your going to drive yourself
Crazy...
If the ignition is bad... get another...
Also I’m a firm believer in it’s your rover
And you can do what ever you want...
I hope you get it sorted out...
 

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I've been through RAVE a few times now. The wiring for the Audible Warning Unit is switched by "transfer box neutral switch" among other things. I went out to the truck and I can get the incessant DINGGGGGG to shut off if I put the transfercase in neutral with the ignition off. With the ignition on, it still continues to make noise. If I shift into high or low gear, then I get the noise as well.
On the starter side, I have no idea why I can't get the motor to turn. I don't think I need the EFI relay to get that circuit to connect.
So no crank at all? I take it there's no power to the starter solenoid? It's possible that there might be logic somewhere in the EFI computer that is required before the starter solenoid gets power when you turn the key. I believe the pinout for the 14cux is in the rave manual, did you check if any of the pins look like they may interrupt the starter signal?
 
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