Range Rovers Forum banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I searched high and low to no avail
Secondly this was completely my fault!

I was sitting in the drivers seat this morning and had to get my wallet out of my back pocket, so I lifted my arse by leaning back in the seat.......uh oh what was that clunking noise and movement????

The seat felt like it moved backwards about an inch by pivoting on the recline point (if that makes sense)

Unfortunately what seems to have happened is the front height adjustment has come adrift, meaning that:

a) the seat rocks forward and backward about an inch and a half as I accelerate and brake just to be clear I dont mean it is sliding backwards and forwards it is rocking from the back(which is freaking annoying)
b) the front height adjustment no longer works and makes a clunking sound if I try and use it.

So any ideas? has this happened to anyone else? easy to repair or a new seat required?

Cheers

Benj
 

· RIP Our Friend
Joined
·
27,964 Posts
The rear lift is accomplished via a "transmission" with nylon gears driven by cable. This in turn moves a cammed lever that lifts or lowers the frame. I would guess that you snapped the transmission or broke the lift cam. Fortunately the actual seat is easily removed from the mechanicals. This will allow jsut runner/motor replacement if necessary so that you won't have mismatched seats. Replacement of the mechanicals could easily be done in under an hour including time to clean the carpets and dig all the loose change out of the carpet edges. :thumb:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, so home now and have pulled off the driver side plastic cowling that houses all the seat switches and found:



and another angle:



Now to my mind, those countersunk bits should hold screws, and when I tilt the seat forward that piece snugs up against the housing.

So I may have broken/snapped off these screws.

Benj
 

· LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
2,097 Posts
I'll tell ya pic's are good but I can't see what your looking at. If it turns out that you need to replace the seat controls I have them..Good luck.

Scotty
 

· JACK'S GRANDAD
Joined
·
9,310 Posts
To give a little update to this thread and the part involved....
I had the rocking seat issue, and it was only on the rear height adjuster. I removed the 4 screws and removed the cover shown in the picture. There is a washer behind that plate. I made another washer the same ID as the OEM one, and then screwed the metal cover on with the 4 screws. You cannot tighten it all the way down due to the motor binding, but you can adjust it to where the screws are tight, and there is no rocking on the nylon gear inside it.
I did look at the TSB here http://jimsrover.afraid.org/rover/Techn ... 20Rock.pdf
but mine was rocking where the nylon gear comes out of the housing, needing a little tightening up.
Will update if there are any future problems.
Just thought I would give another possible cause to the rocking seat issue.

Martin
 

· Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
Hmmm... I have always had a minor seat rock issue, but never took the time to really fix it. Now that a bunch of other little issues are fixed, I think I will tackle this one.

The TSB mentions cutting off a portion of the mounting bolt spacer. Martin, sounds like you just used another washer to take out the slack, is that correct?

I will probably know more when I take it apart to look at it.
 

· JACK'S GRANDAD
Joined
·
9,310 Posts
In my seat, the play was not where the TSB refers to. On mine, it was the motor that lifts and lowers the rear part of the seat base. When I removed the seat itself, I could see @1/4" of play in the plastic gear where the nut fastens to the adjusting rod. It will be the rod that runs parallel to the door, nearest to the drivers door (LHD). I removed the nut (13mm IIRC), the plastic and steel washers, and 4 phillips head screws. Behind the cover that the 4 screws holds on is a steel washer. In mine this washer was allowing for some movement in the gear. I made another washer to put between the OEM washer and the square end cap that is secured with the 4 screws.
Look at the OP's pictures. Those 4 phillips screws (the ones that aren't missing anyways) are what I removed and made a washer to fit behind.
Hope that made sense?
Wish I had taken foto's of it now, sorry for that! :oops:

Martin
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top