[lesjonpool]

All,

I purchased the EAS valve block rebuild kit from Rover Renovations. I just recently rebuilt the air compressor with their kit, as well. Great stuff.

Now, onto the valve block rebuild. There is a lot of business about using a pigtail to depressurize at the beginning and then test at the end of the procedure. I have never ventured into manipulating the electronics of my rover. I am excited to get started. However, I want to know exactly what I need to be doing prior to getting started.

I have searched rangerovers.net, atlantic british, and rover renovations for images of this pigtail. I cannot find one. I understand the concept. However, this seems pretty dang important. Also, it seems like if I mess one thing up, I have to tow the range rover to the dealer.

If anyone has a photo of a pigtail they used, please post it. I would actually love to see a photo of it in use. The only photos I've seen of it are too zoomed in for me to tell what is going on.


Thank you!!
jt

 

[leftlanetruckin]

I never bothered with the pigtail method myself, never had an issue with it.
Here is Dennis' description of it though:
http://www.rover-renovations.com/kb_results.asp?ID=27
All I did do was air the compressor up enough to reach max PSI, then let it all be.

Martin

 

[rover4.0]

Picture 6-7 wires all about 6" in length

one end of each is soldered/tinned the other end is bare wire

now twist together all the unsoldered ends and solder all of them togeter and tape up or use a wire nut

you should now have a wire thing that looks like an octopus - teepee frame - handless broom

now follow directions on depressurizing the system and rebuilding the block

 

[shupack]

I added a photo of the pigtail I use on the instructions page, linked above by LeftLane..

 

[lesjonpool]

Thanks for the help, everyone. I see that image now. So am I out of luck if I don't have a soldering iron? Are there any other alternative methods that won't risk damaging the air bags?

 

[paul.adshead]

I guess you are familiar with a standard 'spade' connector? Well the 35 connectors on the EAS ECU, are essentially just 'half-width spade connectors'. The reason why you need to 'tin' the ends of the wires, is that you need to push the wires into the 'spade sockets' on the loom. By tinning the wires, it makes them stiff-enough to push into the socket. If you can get hold of solid-core wire (like mains wire), you can probably use some of that. Alternatively, if you have a crimping kit, you can crimp the 'male spade' onto the wires - you will probably have to file/cut the terminal down to half width though (unless you can find some of the half-width crimp fittings), so it will fit into the sockets on the loom.

 

[BigMountainBigAir]

Or just pick up a box or two from pep boys for $3.89 a box...i think 5 come in a package. The box says "ford mini male" "20-18" and it's red/white.

i use a soldering iron to make mine up. they come in handy. i made one a long time ago and threw it away, foolishly thinking "i'll never need that"....oops.

Just made one yesterday.

 

[shupack]

The spades I use are cut off of dead driver modules, I've got a bunch, should I add them to the store??

 

[BigMountainBigAir]

find the pigtails all made in china and buy em for like .10 each and sell em for $15 .

or, couldnt we have a little module made with switches, and they plug everything into ports 1,8,9,10,11 26,27,28 and activate the ones we want?

by the way dennis--need your address for that valve block. quick related question-- I currently have the module unplugged and am temporarily using the jumper system to get around until i can get a kicker or make a dealer run. however, the whole truck still goes down almost to the bumpstops after a full 24 hours. is that most likely a valve block leak in the backflow prevention valve or something>

 

[shupack]

return form here with shipping instructions:
http://www.rover-renovations.com/attachment.asp?id=697&key=F1768CAA-CBA3-4F9F-B5CE-0AD81A22267C

do NOT use styrofoam to package it, it won't hold up to the bashing. No matter how much the guy at the UPS store tells you it'll be fine, do NOT USE STYROFOAM.

I've got a ton of the wires, I was thinking $5 for the effort of putting them together...

 

[lesjonpool]

The spades I use are cut off of dead driver modules, I've got a bunch, should I add them to the store??

If you are talking about adding a pigtail to the store, I'll buy one. Thanks for the further advise, guys!

 

[paul.adshead]

At a pinch, the below will work quite well:
[attachment=1:37y7hs9t]paul.adshead.8.paperclips.jpg[/attachment:37y7hs9t]
[attachment=0:37y7hs9t]paul.adshead.octo.wire.jpg[/attachment:37y7hs9t]

 

[lesjonpool]

Nice. So something that simple will work. Just some conductors that are tied together and will fit in the holes. I should be able to manage.

I've just wanted to be cautious. I definitely do not want a hard fault and have to take it to the dealer.


Thanks!

 

[shupack]

I definitely do not want a hard fault and have to take it to the dealer.


Thanks!

with the ECU unplugged, you will not log a fault, no matter what you do to it. It will beep at you, simply because the ECU is not there.