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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I purchased an EAS unlock cable of ebay about a week ago, it's now arrived and I had 5 minutes to play but it didn't work :(


The seller says they test all cables before dispatch, I also bought a USB -> RS232 adapter with it which has been tested to work with this cable.

I set the convertor up first which made the com port com5,

I went out to the car, switched the car to position 2 (radio on etc), I plugged in the OBDII Connector in the passenger footwell, I started up the software and pressed initialise. The TX then shows a 0 4 times, after the 4th time the RX responds with a "PP" and the TX shoots off doing 1, FF etc. The RX doesn't do anything else.

I've tried all the normal computer type solutions (Reboot, try another USB port etc), and I've tried cleaning the OBDII connector in the car, I've also tried switching the car on and off etc and connecting the cable at different times but I always get the same.

Any ideas, if it makes any difference the engine is in peices at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Tried setting Regional Settings to United States - no change
Tried change Com Port to 1, 2, 5 and 6 - no difference works the same on all 4.


Running Windows XP
 

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It's most probably the USB->RS232 cable.

If you have a desktop with a LCD monitor, get an extension cord & set it up inside the car to use it's built-in RS-232. If it works then, the USB->RS232 cable is the culprit. if not then you have a faulty daignostic OBDII lead.

The best way to get this working on a newer laptop is to buy a RS232 expansion card. I myself had this issue and with the USB cable it was no luck. But after that i bought a PCMCIA RS232 card for my laptop and works like a charm.

Check whether your laptop is the old PCMCIA standards or the newer PCI-eXpress based 34/54 express card slot.

Cheers,
Gayan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My Current Laptop is PCI-eXpress.

My Desktop PC doesn't have an RS232 port either.

The converter "should" be OK as I bought them together and the seller guaranteed it to work as he had tested it.

To rule it out though I dug out an old laptop (600mhz celeron from years ago) which has an RS232 Port, it had a corrupt hard drive (but I now have a spare 20gb) so I spent the evening figuring out how to install Windows XP on a Laptop which won't boot from USB, has no floppy drive and a dead CD Drive!

Got it sorted in the end and it's now up and running with a clean copy of Windows XP. So will test it straight to the RS232 port tonight, will still have to run an extension lead out to the car as the laptop battery lasts about 30 seconds!
 

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Make sure you install .Net Framework 2.0. Or the s/w wont work.

And in the meantime get a expresscard->rs232 expansion card. That's the best option there. They're around 10US$ with shipping on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for that it's installing .net framework 2.0 right now, already been going 5 mins or so! It's only got 192mb ram!

To be honest if it works on the old laptop then I'll just use it on there - can even leave that one under a seat or something, got an invertor somewhere which will power it - then it'll always be to hand.

I was then going to get a generic OBDII cable and some software to try but my just wait for the new BBS device in January,


Still got to rebuild the top end of the engine yet - just trying to make sure there's no more expensive repairs needed as well! Incase it needs a new engine, if I'm going to spend out £600 on an engine I need to know how much else needs spending on!

Currently the suspension is in fault mode, the airbag is showing a fault and the abs is showing a fault. I think I can sort the ABS, and I'm hoping this shows any problems with the suspension which will only leave the airbag
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right software working on old laptop but I get the exact same thing running it on a physical rs232 port, all I get is PP in the RX field just once.

If I unplug the OBDII connector from the car I get the same just a PP.

So I'm now putting it down to either

a - the rs232 to obdII cable being faulty
b - the car obdII port being faulty (tried cleaning)
c - the car ecu fried

My personal guess is on (b) but a is the easiest to check so I'll start there
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Checked the cable, it should be as follows: (OBD on left)

12 -> 3
11 -> 2
1 -> 7
5 -> 5

Mine is:

12 -> 3
11 -> 2
1 -> 7
5 -> 4 and 5

I believe that is OK as 4 and 5 are both grounds (signal ground and chassis ground) but just thought I mention it just incase?

So that basically only leaves the car to be at fault.

Will have to dismantle the obd2 port and make sure all connections are good
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've now taken the OBD2 port out of it's trim in the car which allows me to look at it a bit more, some of the connections were a bit corroded so I've cleaned them up.

The cable still won't work though!

Is there any testing I can do on the pins of the OBD2 port? I did a quick test with a test lamp and only one pin was showing voltage with the ignition on, no pins with the ignition off.

Pins 12, 11, 1, and 5 all have wires going to them which is good.

From what I have read the software makes the EAS ECU reboot and you should hear a relay click, I can't hear any relays click. Where is the EAS ECU located - can anyone think of anything else to try?
 

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sotal said:
I've now taken the OBD2 port out of it's trim in the car which allows me to look at it a bit more, some of the connections were a bit corroded so I've cleaned them up.

The cable still won't work though!

Is there any testing I can do on the pins of the OBD2 port? I did a quick test with a test lamp and only one pin was showing voltage with the ignition on, no pins with the ignition off.

Pins 12, 11, 1, and 5 all have wires going to them which is good.

From what I have read the software makes the EAS ECU reboot and you should hear a relay click, I can't hear any relays click. Where is the EAS ECU located - can anyone think of anything else to try?
Sotal - did you get this sorted out. I have the exact same problem.
 

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sounds like this solution is not usable with a newer laptop, and considering the fact that I'm trying to get my **** truck back on the road and not make more work for myself, I might need to go in another direction. i'm running vista on a sony vaio, 2 year old laptop. I dont want to buy anything other than the cable and then the usb-serial from radio shack, but it sounds like THAT even might be suspect. does ANYONE have a complete solution?? this is a little crazy that we're all running into this. Who has a serial port on a laptop anymore? I have a monitor port, but im not buying some CARD for my laptop. this is a little kooky, isn't it? it works only if you have an older laptop, AND you download .Net Framework 2.0, AND you need another adapter, AND and and and. Can we go back to the drawing board?

Does anyone have this thing working anywhere in maryland? I need a reset. I'm stranded!
 

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I think before someone complains about how and what systems this software runs on we should all thank Storey for his countless hours of work and development. The fact that his software is free as well as the directions for building your own cable are free says a great deal about his dedication to the marque.

I have been able to run his software on Vista32 just fine. Two items to keep in mind. A: you will need to run the software in compatibility mode. If you don't know what that is, use google. B: not all USB/Serial converters are the same.
 

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as always, toadie you're right. Am i the only one to notice many people are picking up this cable and downloading software, only to have it not work due to some other variable? I guess what I'm really asking is it possible for someone to sell (maybe dennis, or whoever) the complete kit with everything you totally need? I know for me as a do-it-yourselfer, it's a bear when you order "the solution" and it's not totally practical. Is it not possible to make suggestions for improvements without it being taken as trashing someone's complete effort? Im just reading the posts like everyone else.
 

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The unlock software and cable ARE a complete solution as they were designed. It is the members using them on systems that the solution was not designed for that is the undersyling issue, not the software. It's like complaining a GM 180 amp alternator doesn't work in a Classic. With a few modifications and changes it can be made to work, but it was not designed to. Folks are asking an older software to work on newer laptops with newer operating systems and asking all this to communicate with a completely different protocol than the software was designed for. To use this software your options are to purchase a serial card, purchase and experiment until you find an approprite convertor or spend $100 for a dedicated laptop that will support the software in it's native design. Other options include an EAS buddy or similar product, Testbook, or even a BBS product.
 

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Thanks for clarifying that. I guess I'm hopeful that whoever wrote the software can write a modern version of it so that the common guy with more modern computer peripherals will be able to buy the kit, plug it into any modern laptop, and then it's all done. I'm just one guy who has run two women off because of my obsession with this truck, so i'm hoping someone can help me keep the next one and streamline this process a little!! :D I dont wanna run to radio shack for one piece, get the cable from someone, order a PCMCIA card from amazon, and THEN download the software. that's all I was saying.

Merry Christmas by the way Toadie :wink:

Actually, how about Happy Christmakwanzukkah (just to cover all my bases) :dance:
 

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Hi there, just read this thread, firstly, I have to agree that we'd all be up s**t creek without people like Storey. But I've also been struggling to get anywhere with the software. I tried my old laptop, no chance of connecting, no matter what I did with the settings.Then tried my daughters new laptop, this time I got a return signal, but couldn't get a stable synch. All I'm wondering is how much mucking about others have to go through, if any? Do most people manage to get the software to connect and synch first time or what?
 

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Hi there, just read this thread, firstly, I have to agree that we'd all be up s**t creek without people like Storey. But I've also been struggling to get anywhere with the software. I tried my old laptop, no chance of connecting, no matter what I did with the settings.Then tried my daughters new laptop, this time I got a return signal, but couldn't get a stable synch. All I'm wondering is how much mucking about others have to go through, if any? Do most people manage to get the software to connect and synch first time or what?
It varies,mine worked first time.Others have as well,but some people have battled.Have you checked the OBD socket on your RR?.Check the wiring and the socket for corrosion.
 

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I've gone a bit further than cleaning the OBD pins, I've soldered a serial socket to the correct wires on the back of the OBD socket, ie straight onto the loom. I ought to say, I tried with the lead for a long time first. I'm starting to wonder about the various plugs between the OBD and the ecu?
 

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I thank everyone for the positive and constructive comments. I am sorry that you are having trouble with the software. The EASunlock software was written almost 5 years ago and was my very first attempt at a such an application. Not only does the EASunlock software have problems but the vehicles can also have problems that interfere with the proper establishment of a diagnostic session with the EAS computer.

The EAS Buddy V3 was designed to eliminate the headaches of working with so many unknown variables.

So what I always tell people in this order;
The vehicle EAS system must be all connected. No disconnected relays, fuses, or EAS computer mutliplug.
Make sure that your cable is a purpose built EAS Serial cable. An off the shelf OBDII cable will not work.
If you made the cable yourself, follow the schematic on the website and pay attention to front versus rear of the plug when pin numbers are referenced.
Set your windows regional settings to USA.
If using a USB to Serial adapter, use the manufacturer specific drivers. Do not use the default windows drivers.
Understand what comm port you should be on by working with the Windows Device manager.
If the EASunlock software does not load up, then make sure that the Windows Dot Net Framework is installed.
When trying to connect, make sure that the vehicle engine is running. A running engine rules out battery issues.
Check fuses; FUSE 44, FUSE 24 and FUSE 33

What re you getting in the Rx buffer after you press initialize?
If you get nothing; cable is incorrect, Windows regional settings to USA, Comm port wrong, vehicle wiring suspect.
If you get FF and 1; You are on the wrong comm port.
If you get 28 and 80; cable is incorrect, Windows Regional settings to USA, Slightly adjust the idle delay, USB to serial adapter is suspect, vehicle wiring is suspect, EAS delay relay is suspect.

Even when everything is setup correctly, the process can take a couple attempts to connect. Each time you attempt to connect with the EAS computer, it is best to unwind all the steps and start fresh. When I have an unsuccessful connection attempt, I restart the EASunlock software, unplug and check the USB adapter, turn the vehicle off and then try everything again fresh. Although then again, many people are able to connect the first time every time.

Vehicle wiring can sometimes go bad. But not unless something else has happened. If there is a coolant leak from the heater core or a water leak in one of the AC drain lines, then perhaps you should inspect the wiring harness for the OBDII port and the multiplug connector for the EAS computer.

And additionally, please remember that I do not receive any of the money that people pay to sellers on Ebay and the like. If you purchased a cable and adapter on Ebay, it was not from me. :)
 
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