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Discussion Starter #1
Good day,

I have rebuilt my valve block and replaced my compressor. Manually activating the pump via the ECU plug pins 1+8+26 - air is not reaching the tank as after 5 minutes I can remove all air lines without any sign of air loss. What valve needs to be checked directly after compressor / air drier and what path does it take? I wish for it too work as to manually test each air spring valve manually via pin 10+11 and 27+28. Thank you.
 

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Start from the compressor and follow the airlines: first the blue one to the valve block, then the 8mm one to the bottom of the dryer, then back to the valve block. Most likely problem would be the diaphragm valve sticking open, you will feel the air the compressor tries to put into the tank exit through the exhaust filter, thus never reaching the tank. As a temporary fix, you can just block it to build pressure. Also check the airline from the valve block to the tank for leaks.

Filip
 

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Thanks for the reply Filip. I had a feeling the diaphragm solenoid is faulty as I cant hear the plunger actuating whilst running 12v though it. I have taken resistance readings from all solenoids and found this particular one to have a resistance 8x more than the others. 0.38Ω compared to the other 6x solenoids at 0.05Ω.

Could someone independently verify if these readings are normal for the solenoids on a P38? The blue wires on the end solenoid are easily detached and tested for continuity.
 

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After some more trials on manual, I have discovered the air is reaching the tank and the air springs are actuating correctly - with the exception of the right rear spring which when inflated/deflated has the same effect to the left rear spring.

NRV acting up? I have checked them several times and am thinking the Driver module is sending power to both solenoids so will test the right and left rear power usage on test bench. Out it comes again.
 
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