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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

Im going to relocate the complete EAS system from engine compartment to boot.
My original intentions was to run a cooling pipe from a gap between radiator and body work with a fan but as we all know
the RR3's system sits in the boot......I wonder why, guess they learnt that the engine compartment wasnt ideal and oddly
enough there's alot more room in the RR3s engine bay than the P38

I have already started the process and the design layout looks good so far, pics to follow within the next 2-3 weeks.....
Sooner if I can as I already have at least 8 customers who want this mod

Here's a few thoughts and ideas on how and why.
1 Why: Simple really, the heat saturation from engine bay to the EAS valve block, valve driver pack and compressor
is destroying a good system, regretably some will disagree

2 Location: to right side off boot, a completly new box housing will be made up for all three components, compressor
will be mounted on top of it all, within this box a cooling fan with a delay timer will be installed, extreme yes but effective.
Box will also match the interior and fill up the space that I consider useless and never used, there will be 2 compartments
Lower section will house components, upper compartment will be a mini storage space ideal for torch or related EAS bits
with a door

3 Benefits: Too many to list but most of the problems I have noted is solenoid driver pack failures due to heat.
The valve block leaking because of failing O rings (going brittle) pressure switch contact plate also warping
(I've disected one)
Then there's the compressor.....compressors generate heat as air is compressed hence the fan with delay timer
Pipe from EAS valve block to tank will be alot shorter which is a good thing.
Larger compressor: New setup will easily allow for a larger compressor and installing it will be dead easy, no more bracket
modifications required.

Drawbacks: Now this is one little niggly I'm concerned about and thats (1) Noise so proper insulation required but a larger
327 compressor is alot quieter anyway (2) Longer cabling to rear, abit of a concern here as voltage drop may
activate a EAS fault, mainly from compressor as it reads this as extra current draw...maybe but there is a fix

Piping: Pipe work through floor is easily done, new box floor will be a template, 2 new holes properly done (there's lots of
space) one five hole pipe grommet and one medium cable grommet
New piping through out will have to be installed and routed correctly


So there you have it in a nutshell, any positive ideas or thoughts welcome.
 

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I am one of those that will "regretably" disagree. Although I can see heat as an issue if there were no air movement, once out of the parking space there is a fair amount of air movement through the engine compartment. My rig spent much of it's first 100K miles of it's life in Moab and Phoenix. Both locations easily around 100 degrees on a regular basis. Compressor lasted well over 100K, valve block rebuilt around 130K with driver pack lasting to 150K. Unless you are making additional room for a secondary battery I just don't see where the huge amount of labour is warranted for wear items that will have to be rebuilt or replaced anyway. I keep way too much junk in my trunk to give up space for something that is very happy where it is.
 

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Just a small suggestion. Try it first with the longer cable. Make two ends (there are a ton of wires) preferably with the stock connectors and plug it in. Don't cut anything so if it doesn't work you can be riding on fully functional air-suspension again.
Other than that, give it a try, I would love to see the results.
 

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I've toyed with the idea, but never done anything with it, sounds like you're on the right track.

viperover said:
......voltage drop may activate a EAS fault, mainly from compressor as it reads this as extra current draw.......
there's nothing that I know of that measures EAS compressor current draw. the lower voltage/higher current may (will?) produce more heat in the compressor and possibly trip the thermal switch, but if under-hood temps don't do it, then I doubt that will.
 

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viperover said:
Hi all

Im going to relocate the complete EAS system from engine compartment to boot.
My original intentions was to run a cooling pipe from a gap between radiator and body work with a fan but as we all know
the RR3's system sits in the boot......I wonder why, guess they learnt that the engine compartment wasnt ideal and oddly
enough there's alot more room in the RR3s engine bay than the P38

I have already started the process and the design layout looks good so far, pics to follow within the next 2-3 weeks.....
Sooner if I can as I already have at least 8 customers who want this mod

Here's a few thoughts and ideas on how and why.
1 Why: Simple really, the heat saturation from engine bay to the EAS valve block, valve driver pack and compressor
is destroying a good system, regretably some will disagree

2 Location: to right side off boot, a completly new box housing will be made up for all three components, compressor
will be mounted on top of it all, within this box a cooling fan with a delay timer will be installed, extreme yes but effective.
Box will also match the interior and fill up the space that I consider useless and never used, there will be 2 compartments
Lower section will house components, upper compartment will be a mini storage space ideal for torch or related EAS bits
with a door

3 Benefits: Too many to list but most of the problems I have noted is solenoid driver pack failures due to heat.
The valve block leaking because of failing O rings (going brittle) pressure switch contact plate also warping
(I've disected one)
Then there's the compressor.....compressors generate heat as air is compressed hence the fan with delay timer
Pipe from EAS valve block to tank will be alot shorter which is a good thing.
Larger compressor: New setup will easily allow for a larger compressor and installing it will be dead easy, no more bracket
modifications required.

Drawbacks: Now this is one little niggly I'm concerned about and thats (1) Noise so proper insulation required but a larger
327 compressor is alot quieter anyway (2) Longer cabling to rear, abit of a concern here as voltage drop may
activate a EAS fault, mainly from compressor as it reads this as extra current draw...maybe but there is a fix

Piping: Pipe work through floor is easily done, new box floor will be a template, 2 new holes properly done (there's lots of
space) one five hole pipe grommet and one medium cable grommet
New piping through out will have to be installed and routed correctly


So there you have it in a nutshell, any positive ideas or thoughts welcome.
I thought to do that for a long time and i didn't do for many reasons.
1.The most important one was that i didn't want to crawl under luggages to access spare wheel well in case of major EAS failure or to test EAS components such as rebuilt valve blocks on my rig.
2.I wanted to keep spare wheel well for a 2nd battery that will be closer to my Aux (fridge, DVD install...)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
Well interesting so far, in response to above reply hence the reason of installing in the right side cut away.
in fact if installed there it would be better than the RR3 as it sits in the spare wheel well, again I say "I wonder why"

I will be doing a dummy run in the boot prior to the full monty conversion to see how it performs/sounds

To date the most problematic area on the EAS system is all three components (apart from height sensors) and hence where I started off with the air filter mod which really works very well

As mentioned on other sections of this forum I've stripped down a 95 classic valve block and it was still the original unit, every o ring and seat was still perfect, so much so I've used the parts with great results on a P38.

But now the project has been delayed, my Rangie is going in the morning for some serious respraying to roof, bonnet etc to get it into a respectable state again, its silver and is quite rare here in fact I've yet to see another one
 

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I think the idea has merit :think: and vaguely contemplated same a while ago but other things took precedence..also I have a MARS system which incorporates 4 ballcock air taps for total isolation of the valve block etc...
My issue is that I'm planning a big trip for next year and, like 996Turbo, require as much space in the boot as possible...am even contemplating installing a sliding floor section (as in Dodge Nitro) for easier access to spare wheel well without having to unload ...
I shall watch developments with keen interest!
 

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Hoges said:
contemplating installing a sliding floor section (as in Dodge Nitro) for easier access to spare wheel well without having to unload ...
I like that. I already have heavy duty sliding mechanisms (850 mm - 1850m )to do that. Front Runner has some good example of sliding trays
 

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What I especially like the sound of is a specially made part to fit into that right hand hole, especially with two compartments to it.
If you can get those made and they look decent I will be very interested in buying one.
 

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