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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

woke up to an EAS fault this morning - I swear I will set fire to this car if I get another problem with it!

The suspension was left last night in normal ride height and has been working fine. This morning its in access mode and won't budge. I can hear the compressor and feel it operating and it gets warm. I suspect either its not putting out enough pressure or there is a leak. If its not got enough puff that wouldn't explain why the car dropped overnight though?

Should I take the pipe off the compressor to see how much pressure is being produced?

Amy ideas welcome thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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This morning its in access mode and won't budge. I can hear the compressor and feel it operating and it gets warm. I suspect either its not putting out enough pressure or there is a leak. If its not got enough puff that wouldn't explain why the car dropped overnight though?
Should I take the pipe off the compressor to see how much pressure is being produced?.
Pop the pipe off, run the compressor with your finger over the outlet. You will feel if it's producing pressure.
If it is, put it back together, run the car wiith door open for 10-15 mins. This will (re)fill the tank if it's emptied. Then close the door, keep foot off brake and see if it lifts.

Dropping overnight- the car will wake periodically to self level. If it can't level (or thinks it can't) it will eventually drop to the bump stops, exhaust its air and give up!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I was panicking earlier as I have a 4 hour drive coming up in a few days and everywhere will be shut so I can't get parts.

I ran it for 10 minutes with the door open and then the suspension went straight up.

Is there something that needs fixing if the car is trying to level overnight and emptying the tank?

Going to finish my blend motor repair now and get my dash back together then move on to the next items on the never ending list!

Cheers again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Justyn, fit a pressure gauge and you will be able to see what is going on. It is an easy job to do.
 

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Take the exhaust off the valve block and see if you can feel any air escaping while the compressor is running. The output of the compressor is pretty small, so it's hard to feel the air but if you can feel any semblance of air out the exhaust hole, you have an internal leak in the valve block. The most likely culprit would be the diaphram valve.

If you haven't renewed your valve block in some time, it may be a good idea to do so soon.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice and links. I will see if it happens again tomorrow morning.

Take the exhaust off the valve block and see if you can feel any air escaping while the compressor is running. The output of the compressor is pretty small, so it's hard to feel the air but if you can feel any semblance of air out the exhaust hole, you have an internal leak in the valve block. The most likely culprit would be the diaphram valve.

If you haven't renewed your valve block in some time, it may be a good idea to do so soon.
Where is the valve block exhaust hole?

I've only had the car 6 months, I reconditioned the compressor as it was noisy but I think that was more down to the three perished rubber mounts than internal condition. No idea if the block has ever been looked at.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The exhaust, or inlet is at the rear of the compressor, black round thing, unscrews, sounds like you might have a leak somewhere, you could take the timer relay out ( under left seat) and change for a 4 pin relay. That way it won't try and level till you start the car, but keep the 5 pin handy, I believe you can't get a diagnostics reading otherwise.. I know your pulling your hair out, but once it's sorted your be all smiles
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The exhaust, or inlet is at the rear of the compressor, black round thing, unscrews, sounds like you might have a leak somewhere, you could take the timer relay out ( under left seat) and change for a 4 pin relay. That way it won't try and level till you start the car, but keep the 5 pin handy, I believe you can't get a diagnostics reading otherwise.. I know your pulling your hair out, but once it's sorted your be all smiles
The car is fine this morning so I am hoping it was a "one off" thing. It has never happened before. I'll look into the four pin relay - where do you get one of those from?

I finished fixing my blend motor yesterday and now I am going to get rid of the electrical connector in front of the door which is corroded and could be the reason I can't use a diagnostic reader on the car. Determined to work through my list of faults now and get a fully working P38!
 

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Mark all the wires carefully, I had one of the joints throw every wire before I could number them ( bad corrosion) you should be able to get a 4 pin relay in any spares shop, it's nothing special
 

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If it seems a one off thing check where you park. I have a 2 ft (ish) square area on my drive which will put the car on the bump stops overnight if I reverse in and drop the left hand front wheel in it. Naturally thats pretty much the optimum parking spot. Everywhere else on the drive is fine. OK if I drive in and put the right side rear wheel in it tho'. But driving in means a three pointer to get out.

Its a P38 thing.
 
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