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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen/Ladies,
Had time this weekend to play around with some leaking valve blocks. Had a customers HSE in the shed with all sorts of valve block leak related issues. Thought I would share this simple fix.
Firstly, after replacing all O'rings including the o'rings in the solenoids and new diaphram I still had an internal leak. By removing the exhaust silencer I could still feel intermittant amounts of air releasing. I then 'T' pieced a pressure gauge inline to the storage tank to see if it was dropping. It was, about 10 psi per 30 minutes. ie after one night completely empty, hence long pump up each morning.
I then looked at a layout drawing which shows the various passages for which the air travels. I worked out that the air had to be bypassing either the exhaust or inlet soleniods.
Most of us have seen the conditon of a 12 year old solenoid plunger(the face that seals to the tapper on the head) usually a defined print of the round face that it seals on. I have heard of someone punching out new rubber blocks and gluing them to the plunger. This is a good idea, but I wanted a faster fix.
So I locked the plunger in my drill press(gently) spun it and slowly re-faced the rubber seal on fine emery cloth, then 800 grit wet and dry. This gave me a brand new sealing face.
I re-assembled the solenoids, let the system pressure up, and bingo zero leaks!!!!!
I really believe these two solenoids are the cause on so many leaks that some are chasing, after the usual seals,bags etc have been replaced.
Hope this will help some of you.
Regards Russell.
 

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Great news ! I'll try it soon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, give it go. The car that I have repaired is still sitting in the same place and has dropped a couple of psi which I put down to auto leveling. It's a simple process and you don't even have to remove the valve block. I just pulled the tank line out to drop pressure and then removed the solenoids.
Regards Russell.
 

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Am intrigued :thumb: ...but which 2 solenoids :?:

Bought a new valve block about 18m ago from AirbagMan. Am in process of rebuilding the original as a spare.
All was well for a while then the dreaded constant compressor problem, dropping down etc.

As I had previously installed a bypass but with the added insurance of ballcock valves between the valveblock and each airspring so that I can totally isolate the valve block. The truck has been sitting for 10 days with the VB isolated and totally on "bypass" :shock: and has moved only 3mm! :clap: so now to the VB

Am wondering also if the powder from dodgy airdryer could cause problems?

I will now attempt the "RusselB Procedure" to refurb my old valveblock solenoids ...

but am keen to know which 2 solenoids I need to concentrate on!

cheers & thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hoges said:
Am intrigued :thumb: ...but which 2 solenoids :?:

Bought a new valve block about 18m ago from AirbagMan. Am in process of rebuilding the original as a spare.
All was well for a while then the dreaded constant compressor problem, dropping down etc.

As I had previously installed a bypass but with the added insurance of ballcock valves between the valveblock and each airspring so that I can totally isolate the valve block. The truck has been sitting for 10 days with the VB isolated and totally on "bypass" :shock: and has moved only 3mm! :clap: so now to the VB

Am wondering also if the powder from dodgy airdryer could cause problems?

I will now attempt the "RusselB Procedure" to refurb my old valveblock solenoids ...

but am keen to know which 2 solenoids I need to concentrate on!

cheers & thanks
Send me a landline number and I'll call you and explain. Russell.
 

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:thumb:
cheers
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Here's a simple step to retain air pressure in tank if you want to remove inlet solenoid and not have to go through the whole boring process of waiting for compressor to refill tank.

Use a vice grip and crimp (Not bend) pipe but dont compressor to much or it will split, done this loads and works well
When you release vice grips after reinstalling pipe or solenoid the pipe will still slightly appear compressed but it will soon reform itself to how it was due to engine heat and pressure wiyhin
 

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shupack said:
the 2 forward most, the first is exhaust, the second is air-tank isolation.
Hi Dennis,

Is there a illistration of the valveblock somewhere showing which solenoid is which controlling what?

I am looking for the right front bag solenoid, but the piping I found somewehre on this site does not match mine:

Mine are:
No1 - Left Rear bag
No2 - Right Rear bag
No3 - Right Front bag
No4 - Left Front bag
No9 - Tank supply

But how do I match the solinoids to which bag?

Cheers,
CRV.
 

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HSE said:
Gentlemen/Ladies,
Had time this weekend to play around with some leaking valve blocks. Had a customers HSE in the shed with all sorts of valve block leak related issues. Thought I would share this simple fix.
Firstly, after replacing all O'rings including the o'rings in the solenoids and new diaphram I still had an internal leak. By removing the exhaust silencer I could still feel intermittant amounts of air releasing. I then 'T' pieced a pressure gauge inline to the storage tank to see if it was dropping. It was, about 10 psi per 30 minutes. ie after one night completely empty, hence long pump up each morning.
I then looked at a layout drawing which shows the various passages for which the air travels. I worked out that the air had to be bypassing either the exhaust or inlet soleniods.
Most of us have seen the conditon of a 12 year old solenoid plunger(the face that seals to the tapper on the head) usually a defined print of the round face that it seals on. I have heard of someone punching out new rubber blocks and gluing them to the plunger. This is a good idea, but I wanted a faster fix.
So I locked the plunger in my drill press(gently) spun it and slowly re-faced the rubber seal on fine emery cloth, then 800 grit wet and dry. This gave me a brand new sealing face.
I re-assembled the solenoids, let the system pressure up, and bingo zero leaks!!!!!
I really believe these two solenoids are the cause on so many leaks that some are chasing, after the usual seals,bags etc have been replaced.
Hope this will help some of you.
Regards Russell.[/quoTE

Hi Russel i quick fix trick i found was also when refurbishing the valveblock with all new o-rings noticed that the plunger on some valves had seated of sentered ,so when you reassemble the originial seat would not be in line with the valve seat so as per your remidy to make a new flat surface , i while aired up removed the coil to each offening valve ,spray some soapy water ,noticable leaks will appear.Using a gripless pliers turn the shaft from the top till it reseats in it originial seat ,dried off and reassemble coil, do next valve.

Also note if you linish of the solinoid plunger it also helps to messure your springs with a vernia and streach each one a bit to compensate loss of applied pressure from its original spec :thumb:
Regards Graeme
 

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[quote="Selby P38]Also note if you finish of the solinoid plunger it also helps to messure your springs with a vernia and streach each one a bit to compensate loss of applied pressure from its original spec :thumb:
Regards Graeme[/quote]

the springs don't push the plunger down, just keep it from slamming into the top. the airpressure in the spring pushes on top of the plunger, keeping it seated.

If you have leakage at the stem, the small oring isn't seated correctly. you got lucky that twisting it seated it, you could also cut the oring in half if it's in the right (incorrect) spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thought I would show some pics to clear up this process
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #15
sorry, had some problems with hosting
imageshack.us/i/pb250308.jpg/]
[/URL]




This shows the process for reconditioning the sealing surface for the exhaust and inlet solenoids. Russell.
 

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Hi Customrv, did you get any feedback on what solenoid controls what airbag?will appreciate it if you can give me some feedback on it.
 
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