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EAS: RL Air Spring wont inflate/can't hold preasure

4229 Views 23 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  sigmaes
Hello folks,

This is my first post here and i've been referring to this site regularly as i learn about my 1st Range Rover. I bought this used 4 months ago and the EAS was giving me various troubles, which i was able to rectify thanks to you people on this site.

I had to replace the compressor diaphragm, replaced almost all o'rings on the VB and on FL spring. I had to replace the RR air spring as it leaked from the bellows and replaced both rear springs a day apart.

The EAS started giving me regular Hard Faults and upon checking it with the EAS Unlocker s/w, it says "Pressure constantly too high". I suspect this is due to a failed solenoid. And thus the airbag is not able to hold air inside the bag and causing under inflation.

Also i used the s/w to manually increase the heights of the 4 sides (from the heights section of the s/w). Except the LR side, all the other air springs responded to UP command.

If this is the case, can you direct me to which solenoid i should replace, as i have a spare valve block with me.
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Sorry to raise this post from the dead but im experiencing a similar problem..... The rear of my car drops overnight, an this morning my RR wil not raise tried the eas software to unlock and attempt to raise it manually and its jusy not moving, also i can hear the solenoid clicking but no air going in the spring.
Is there any air to go into the spring? EAS failure goes like this. You get a leak, either from a perished 15 year old air spring (highly likely) or a damaged pipe or failed O ring (much less likely), so the pump has to work harder to keeping refilling the system. But the pump isn't designed to work this hard so wears out and no longer supplies sufficient air to fill the system. Then because the system has insufficient air in it, the car fails to rise from it's knees. If the initial fault had been dealt with earlier, it would never have dropped to it's knees in the first place.
There doesnt seem to be any air going into the air spring anymore.

i picked the car last month an a previous owner had converted to coils, luckily the rest of the system was left intact and they only removed the springs when they did the convertion.

There us one other issues with the system, the lights indicating the current height dont come on but the switch works.
If it's had coils on it, there may be a bit of butchery, either an add on loom or a couple of links, on the wiring to the EAS ECU under the LH seat. Make sure that is how it should be and everything is plugged in. The wiring between the ECU and the display go via a 12 Way white connector that lives behind the LH kick panel and is known to suffer from water getting in there and corroding the connections. Usual repair is to cut each pair of wires, one at a time, and solder them.

As for the lack of air, I'd still suspect that you don't have any due to a pump problem.
I removed the atlantic british eas disable box, that was under the passenger seat and restore the orinal connection, ill investigate the connector in the kick panel.

Also let me clarify only one of the air springs isn't getting air the other are working, i can raise and lower the other 3 via te switch on the dash
Ah, that makes a big difference. The fact that it drops overnight says there is a leak but if you can't raise that one corner it sounds like a problem in the valve block. If you can hear the solenoid click in that would suggest that it isn't opening the valve. That is probably the original fault that made them give up and put the coils on in the first place.
When I did the valve block on mine prior to re-fitting EAS, I found one of the solenoids full of white furry gunk. As they were out anyway I gave them all a clean up and they work fine. If your not doing a full valve block refurb, just unscrew each solenoid top in turn and have a gander inside to see if they're all clean. It's an easy starting point anyway.
so i decided to pulled out the valve block today to have a look and noticed that air was coming out out the 2 fittings for the rear air lines, i didn't notice anything obvious all the o-rings appear ok no cracking or crushed, so i applied a small amount of grease on them and put them back hopefully this helps until i get a rebuild kit for the valve block
Did you check All the o rings in the valve block?....there are quite a few.
I went through the whole process of reinstating the EAS on a 2002 car last year. You need to do things systematically or you will be chasing your tail.
I presume you have established the compressor is running and filling the tank.
Are the airlines to each spring good and holding air? An eas bypass valve or better a set of 4 will allow you to pump up all 4 corners individually and ensure they are holding air. You can use the car indefinitely like this if needs be. If you are ok with the lines and springs then renew all the o rings, diaphragm and if you are keen resurface all the solenoid valves.
In my case one O ring in the valve block had failed but once into it I did the full refurb on the block. The car sits 4 square now never ever drops. Previous owner must have given up on the EAS due to one failed O ring.
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i check the ones that would have caused the leak and since I plan on rebuilding the unit and replacing all of them I didn't go too deep.

I did find that 2 or 3 of the fittings on the valve assembly are leaking is it possible to get replacements? if not i was thinking of tapping the holes and relacing with these http://www.grainger.com/product/LEGRIS-Male-Elbow-1PFH4?nls=0&searchQuery=1pfh4
first off thank you for all of the help and input, I was ready to pull the plug on the suspension
ok so after putting it all back together all 4 corners are working again.
so now this is where I am
the good -
air pump is working
air lines and air springs are good ( I will be changing the lines as a preventive step, and springs were just replaced with gen II's )
all sensors appear to be working
the bad -
lights indicating the vehicles current height do not work. so I can't tell what height i'm at or when the system is adjusting
all 3 of 4 fittings on the valve block are leaking badly, the rear drops in less than an hour
I need to recalibrate the system because there is huge difference between normal height and high ride.
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If the lines from the valve block are leaking, it needs new O rings. It doesn't matter what they look like, if they leak then they need replacing. Rather than replace the lines, do as RAVE says to do. Trim a couple of mm off the end and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener so you don't damage the O rings when you refit it. Lights is likely to be the connector by your left foot.
If the lines from the valve block are leaking, it needs new O rings. It doesn't matter what they look like, if they leak then they need replacing. Rather than replace the lines, do as RAVE says to do. Trim a couple of mm off the end and chamfer it with a pencil sharpener so you don't damage the O rings when you refit it. Lights is likely to be the connector by your left foot.
As above.

Two hours or so with a load of O-rings - fifty odd if I remember rightly - a new diaphragm, a tub of Vaseline, and you're all done. Follow the instructions in the EAS section of this site and it's all pretty straightforward.
looked at the connector by the kick panel on the left and everything looks ok, i will take a second look in a couple of days when the weather gets better.

can anyone tell me what size o-rings i need for the tube fittings on the valve block i need to get the car driveable again (it started snowing by me) untill i can get a full rebuild kit.
Do yourself a big favour and get a set of 4 bypass valves as in the attached e-bay link. Not sure where you get them in NY however they are readily available in the backwaters of West Australia in the hydraulic hose shops like Pirtek. Pull out the airbag lines push on the valves and inflate with any airline. You can then deal with the valve block at your leisure.
Tomorrow the rebuild kit arrives, i wanted to know where can i find a guide on how to recalibrate the system
The official method is by using measuring blocks for each setting. Here is a link for a diy effort..http://www.rangerovermaniac.com/ind...r-p38a-suspension-set-up-and-calibration.html You need EAS unlock software or other diagnostics. I did it by measuring heights from centre of road wheel to top of wheel arch as I run 265 75 16 AT tyres and needed more clearance than STD.
As wayneg said for calibration , however rebuild the valve block first as it will be a good start point .
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