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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm looking to get my classic back on air. The PO converted it to Old Man Emu coils. The ride quality on gravel roads is very rough. All the trim in the vehicle rattles the entire drive. Highway driving is better, but I still feel every tiny bump in the road. All of the EAS system is still left on the vehicle except for the air springs.

What would be required in getting the system up and running? The lines that connect to the rear air springs are just plain plastic line with no connectors on them. How did these things connect to the springs and where can I get the fittings? The lines for the front springs have some sort of threaded fittings on them.

Where do you guys buy your springs? I can buy 4 new springs from rock auto and have them at my door for $1000. That seems pretty high. What parts will I need to mount the air springs? Can I just remove the coils and coil seats then install the air springs?

I have downloaded the UnlockEAS software and am going to make a cable for it. Is there any way I can power up and test the computer, compressor, and valve block before I buy the springs?

What maintenance items do you recommend to refurbish the system before use due to it siting unused for many years? Should I be taking apart and cleaning every fitting and rebuilding the valve block and compressor before hand? Thanks
 

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EAS bags come with the mounts it will be obvious when you receive them how they mount. There are no fitting on the lines, the lines press into collets on the bags. You should rebuild the compressor and replace the valve block orings and diaphram.

I always purchase from Atlantic British. Bags are appx $200 per corner and they often offer free shipping or discounts to RRnet members.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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there are a couple of sellers on ebay, one is out of California by the user name ZAMO-ZUAN, he carries aftermarket bags as well. you will need 16 ANR 1220, these are the retainer clips which secure your bags to the axle, 4 per bag.
also check with land rover direct they often have excellent pricing and availability.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Rebuild the valve block and the compressor. A kit for both can be found online.

Great project.

Good luck.
 

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If your EAS controller goes into fault mode and turns one or more of the EAS lights on, then it's probably fine.

Maybe check your shocks and bushings too. Coil springs should still have a decent ride quality, unless they have a higher spring-rate or something silly. The salt from northern AB caused one of the joints on my rear suspension to seize, leading to really bad ride quality.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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I've got a set of airbags for all 4 corners. They've got about 25K miles on them, but I haven't tested them (PO removed them). Happy to ship them to you. Not sure the rules on the forums here, but I imagine you'll need to send me a DM for details
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Great project, I did a conversion to my car (it predates EAS) and its the single best modification I have done (and there have been a few!).

As the guys above have said:

At the very least you will need to rebuild the valve block and compressor. With any luck this may be the reason behind the coils being fitted in the first place and you will solve the problem straight away!

It might be worth checking to see that the compressor runs and runs strongly before rebuilding, you may need a new unit if its burnt out.

Try and do a diagnostic on the ECU and see what faults are stored if any, the height sensors can be a problem after a while.

Worth checking that the T piece in the pipework in the valve chest where the 4mm tube joints the intake to the compressor is clear, mine wasn't and a lot of time was spent trying to work out why the car would not lower on command!

And last real problem area, if you are unlucky the solenoid driver pack might need changed. The solenoids should operate with a good clear audible click, not lazy or slow.

Let us know how you get on!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I've tried connecting to the ECU with the EASUnlock tool with no luck. I did not have the connector that connects to the factory diagnostic connector so I just soldered a female USB jack onto the wires. I then made the adapter cable with the NPN transistor and 15K resistor out of an old phone USB cable and old desoldered serial port connector.

Got everything hooked up but no dice. The software will cycle the power on the EAS computer when it first tries to connect so I know the transistor wiring is fine.

Since I left the original connector is in place but am not using it, this allows me to probe the data lines on the rover to ensure the signal is making it from the laptop to the rover. I can see the signal that the laptop is sending out on the transmit pin show up on the connector so I know all of this wiring is good.

However, there is absolutely nothing on the receive pin. The signal is just high and the ECU is never pulling it low to send any signals. I can short the transmit and receive pins together and the receive data on the laptop matches the transmit data. So this means that my cable is working correctly and the signal is making its way to the rover and back. The rover just isn't talking back to the laptop.

I can hear some valves clicking when I open and close the door and also the dash lights light up and go out as a bulb check when the power is turned on. This tells me the ECU is partially functioning and not completely dead.

Any ideas how I can establish an idle connection with the ecu?
 

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Can't help with your wiring job. The test meter is your friend.

If you hear valves clicking, something is working. Do you hear the compressor working when you turn the key? Takes around five to eight minutes to pressurize the tank.

System won't work with any door open.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got it figured out. The problem was caused by me. Since I used a male serial connector and a gender changer to hook up to my computer's serial port, all the wire positions were reversed so I had it solder up completely backwards. The reason I was getting signal at the rover was because the transmit pin is pin 3 which is in the middle of the connector so reversing the order still leaves it in the center. Oh well, lesson learned.

There were no faults with the ECU. Only a vehicle has moved code. I was also able to read all of the stored height values and the current sensor height values.

The pump runs with the engine running and I can also cycle it with the software. It took a few mins to get up to pressure and then cut out. I am then able to use the software to "raise" each corner of the vehicle up a bit. This results in a short burst of air coming from the air spring hoses at each corresponding corner.

So it looks like now I basically have to buy some springs and put them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another question, since my shocks have also been converted to OME at the same time as my springs, are they going to need to be changed too? I'm not sure if they're different lengths than the originals or not. Also, I'm not sure if they're stiffer since the coils that were put on are very heavy and provide very little bump absorption.
 

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regardless of height ome shocks are not air ride compatible, you will need shocks designed for eas. other wise, your ride will be very unstable and will feel tipsy and at times uncontrollable.
 
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