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Discussion Starter #1
With the help o WaveyDavey I managed to change the main seal in the EAS compressor the pump is running great again but it only runs for about a minute then turns off even when the vehicle is set to off road mode the pump doesnt run also the car is not lifting at all when I drive if you give it enough time parked stationary it will rise only after about 5min
 

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It is good to hear that your pump is working well.
I can´t change ride height on my 4.6 on the move - I must be stationary. It will go down to ´highway´ setting automatically when I reach about 50mph but every other setting change requires a stop.
As for your pump not running - maybe your tank is full. The pump only runs when the pressure has dropped to a certain level and that only happens when air is used to raise the system - so if you don´t change ride height then the pump will not need to run.

Sorry but I can´t offer any advice about why yours takes so long to change height - it should happen straight away.
 

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If you are certain the valve block is all good and no leaks then perform this test.

Open bonnet (Hood for the yanks) remove EAS box cover, start car (Truck for the yankees), leave door open, observe pump operation, it will proberly be running.

Wait till compressor turns off, the door open prevents EAS operation .

Get back in and close the door, select which height you want to go too.

Observe if its smooth and equal, ie when the rear raises does it raise equally on both sides at the same time and so on for the front.

If it goes up or down really slow in front or back and the valve block is good I would say EAS Driver pack, check year date on driver module, best bet is if its original and you have say a 96 then its time to replace, solves many problems, the older they get the slower the pulses are which in turn allows for too much air into air bellows and too much out..., they also get weak buy not allowing enough current to flow to solenoids, when the driver pack activates the solenoids you should hear a good solid clicking sound, obviously not load

BUT.......

The air dryer is another area to check, they fail and allow fine white dust or bits through, these bits end up sometimes on top of the inner mechanical solenoid (Stem) and prevent them opening all the way

With all things electrical, connections are also a important area to check, here is where switch cleaner is your friend
I often do upgrade larger compressors, valve block reseal (including diaphragm) and Driver module replacements all in one go here in JHB but I go step for step, EAS drivers are not cheap but are often required..

Pity you are so far otherwise I'd say pull in and would sort it out in no time...saying that I get Rangies from local to far away including Zambia, Mozambique coming through so guess Nam is just another border to cross.....
More than welcome to call me if you send me a pm and I'll give you my cell number...but not on Sundays cos its the only day I try and keep away from Rangies, they do drive me mad sometimes :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the long post I am now staying in Cape Town permanently will only be going back to nam every now and then I tested for contiuance accross the black and orange wires on the compressor, this is how i did it I set my multimeter to continuance and touched both the wires when there is a circut my multimeter will usually beep but it didnt it gave me a reading of about 600 or 700 does this mean the overheat sensor is dead. I am wondering this because with the car on bump stops it only runs sometimes I know there is no air in the system and the pump wont run my idea was to remove the eas pump and bypass the switch untill I could get a new one. The pump runs very irratically any idea where I could get a new switch in cape town?
 

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No over heat sensors of this type here in RSA, I've tried all electronic suppliers north to south.

You could attach a thermo bi-metal switch to the compressor externally but it needs to be normaly closed when cold so pump runs.

If you are sure no leaks etc you can ground the thin wire where compressor attaches to harness and take it to chassis earth
this way the compressor will run its cycle, the over heat protection sensor within the pump do go faulty as you have mentioned and do extremely short cycles, you reminded me of a customer with the same problem and I provided him with an exchange unit, problem solved, but I highly recommend the compressor upgrade, price is right and loads better for the system.

Usually when this short running cycle happens the thin wire in the brush box tends to work loose over time as its pressed into a kinda small split tube, really dum design to be honest.

Did you remove brush box yet and inspect the bush, if you did you would have noticed a 2 pin power transistor, in effect its a tempreture sensing diode
 

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the slow rise/fall can also be due to desiccant from the dryer getting into the diaphragm in the valve block and causing it to "misbehave" :doh:
...cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had a leak on the front right witch is now fixed I also took the valve block out and had a look all the o rings looked find can anyone tell me were on the block to look for desicant from the dryer damaging the valve block? I tried gounding the thin wire were the compressor ataches but this didnt help I did remove the brushes a while ago they looked ine however I could have not put something back properly so will remove them again and have a look I remember when I removed them it was quite difficult to get the whole lot back in there any help from anyone?
 

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when you pull the valve block apart to reveal the diaphragm, any evidence of white powder indicates that the desiccant is failing .

for a rundown on compressor issues, have a look at the Falconworks website,
cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok there was no white powder or any dust in the valve block, I still suspect the EAS pump temp switch or the bushes
 

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Jeremy
That compressor with the broken allen key is in the cupboard in my garage - as far as I am aware the thermister in that is fine so you are welcome to try that and see if it makes any difference.

Did you try a tyre gauge straight to the output?

Chris - how much for an upgrade compressor then?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Dave just finished cleaning the compressor end up and re soldering a couple peices managed to sort that leak out on the front right didnt get round to the guage yet but I think I will have to make a special connector as the one we were talking about wont fit

Hope things are going well

Regards
 

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Now you say that the pipe from teh compressor is a larger diameter isn't it?

Take to to Gremeltech tomorrow and see if they can lend you a gauge and fitting to test the output (they will want to sell you a Viair compressor though)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok just rebuilt the compressor resoldered a couple ends on the PCB board the thermal switch is fine and there are no longer any intermittent problems with it when I measure between the black and orange I get a circuit, the compressor runs great but still only runs for about a minute or two before sutting off,

How to I test the pressure switch?
How do I test the ECU from the air suspension?

Because these are my next line of thought as to what is not working.
 

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Pressure switch- if the compressor stops with a full tank, the PS works. If you have a tank gage it's easy to tell, about 140-150psi. If no tank gage, do the test above with the open door, if it comes up quickly, there is air in the tank.

ECU- swap out with a known good spare....these rarely fail so not likely the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I know the tank is emtpty because when I disconnect the line at the valve block that feeds it there is little or no pressure in the tank, any way to bypass the pressure switch to tell if the unit is deffinatly broken obviously if I did this it would be for short periods as to not over fill the tank
 

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ah,

The pressure switch is reverse of standard, it's open circuit at low pressure, closed when full tank is reached, check the continuity across it, if it's closed with the tank empty it's failed. You can trace the wires coming up from below into the plug at the front of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok opened hood and disconnected the feed line to the pressure tank as well as connector C152 and measured continuity accross pins 7 and 9 which feed the pressure switch. There was no circuit. There is no pressure in the tank and there is no circuit accross the pressure switch measuing pins 7 and 9 so the pressure sitch is fine.

Yes?

No?

If the pressure switch is ok next to check would be the ecu?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After reading on the main site I have checked these but I want to re check them

Fuse 44
Maxi Fuse 2
Relay 20 ( Is there a way to test this by jumping two pins together?)
 

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Hi Jeremy,
I haven't rebuilt compressor or valve block, but did find my tank was empty in the morning ( car would stay up overnight which ever setting I had it on ), so assumed the tank was draining for some reason. First I used the jumper method at the relay to let the compressor run for approx 8-10mins to fill tank, checking that it didn't overheat. Tested pins 7 and 9 to check pressure switch etc. Checked same pins every so often to see if open circuit arose, which it did. Time for soapy water! Sprayed the valve block selunoids, and found a leak. Removed the top cover ( after depressurising ) of the affected selunoid, then removed the selunoid and replaced the o-rings. Did help a little but still leaked. After risking just removing the top cover off the selunoid, I saw there was a leak between the top and bottom plastic covers. After removing it and separting the halves, I found a plastic type o-ring over the round steel arm ( sorry not sure of the tech names ! :oops: ) I replaced this hidden? seal, and refilled tank, tested with soapy water, and checked pins 7 and 9 for that lovely high pitched closed circuit sound :dance: . In the morning tank was still full and raised the car quickly, and I assume the compressor is also now not working so hard. May, may not be an issue that you have but thought I would share just incase.
Everyone probably already knows this, but I found Youtube a great reference also, for anyone that hasn't checked it out :think:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8Gdsc68 ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQAt7fdPMMo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RddF5Ycs ... re=related
Cheers
Brett
 
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