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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, is it possible to override the controller so i can raise the height while my engine is apart? I've got jacks and axle stands etc but it would be so much simpler if the axles were physically in different places to start with!
I've got power so not worried about flattening the battery
 

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Yes it is. You'll need to run the pump to make sure you have plenty of air in the tank and the simple way to do that is put a wire jumper in place of relay 20. If you then unplug the multiway connector (C152) in the EAS box and connect 12V to pins 12 and 13 and ground to pins 10 and 11. If you take the connector out of it's clip so you can see the wire colours underneath, you'll see that 12 and 13 are red while 10 and 11 are black.

To raise the height you need to open the inlet solenoid and each respective corner solenoids. Putting 12V onto pins 1-5 will open the solenoids which are Rear Left pin 1 (White), Rear Right pin 2 (Yellow), Front Left pin 3 (Brown), Front Right pin 4 (Pink) and Inlet pin 5 (Grey). Probably best to raise an end at a time so you need to put 12V onto pins 1,2 and 5 to raise the back and pins 3, 4 and 5 to raise the front.

If you go too far and need to drop a corner or two, you need to operate the respective corner solenoid and the exhaust valve on pin 6 (Orange).
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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technically it needs to see rpm signal to operate, you could install and use an air manual recovery which is a set of schraeder valves which allow shop air to fill each corner individually.
or maybe use software to trick the system, rsw is a good popular affordable. not sure if it will work the system with out rpm signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Brilliant thanks! Not now, the weather has gone horrid! But I'll try your advice applying 12v in the right places as soon as it dries off!!
Once I've got the height up, hopefully i can get the sump off!! I'm guessing it's been well glued in place!

Then i can get the timing cover off for the real fun
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sadly there is no chance of an rpm signal until i get the new camshaft in!
 

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The RSW software needs the engine to be running so that isn't an option, a Nanocom can open the solenoids without the engine running but still needs the ignition to be on which may not be an option if the engine is apart and the battery disconnected. Simply putting 12V onto each solenoid means you don't even need the valve block in the car, it's how I test a valve block and driver unit on the bench, if one solenoid doesn't open then you know that channel in the driver pack is dead. No point in risking creating leaks by taking the air lines out of the valve block to fit Schrader valves (which you will then have to remove and reconnect the air lines to the valve block) when you can use the valve block and compressor that is already in there.
 

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Sadly there is no chance of an rpm signal until i get the new camshaft in!
there are other ways of doing it, I have not had much chance to use the trick described in stickies using jumper wires, may be worth a shot.
 

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Once I've got the height up, hopefully i can get the sump off!! I'm guessing it's been well glued in place!
To get enough clearance between sump and front axle you ideally need the front to be as high as it will go, so as far as the front shocks will allow, but be careful you don't keep the valves open once it has got that far or you could risk bursting an air spring. A 2000 MY car will be a Thor which has a gasket, unlike the GEMS which has it just glued on with RTV, so should come off fairly easily. There's a couple of handy lugs on the bottom of the block near the front that are ideal for levering against to get it started if it is stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for the info!!! The sump is definitely glued up, whether it should be or not is a different issue from the previous owner. All the bolts are out (and counted) and it won't budge. I'm sure it will be easier to get to once the axles are out of the way
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cheers, I might consider that once i get up and running with a reliable engine!
I like the idea of permanent T connections that don't interfere with the natural order of things, but I'm still very new to eas. I'm guessing the first step is to get eas software and cable sorted before I start making any changes to the system
 

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Those Amazon ones are not only expensive but they are 1/4" and not 6mm as the pipes are, 1/4" is 6.3mm so will almost certainly leak. These https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P38-RANGE-ROVER-AIR-SUSPENSION-SYSTEM-EAS-EMERGENCY-VALVES-SET/272726482487 are much cheaper and the correct size. I carry a set in the boot in case I ever need them but I don't consider fitting Tees a good idea, you're adding 3 additional potential leaks to each corner. Some Tees and connectors, particularly the ones with blue plastic ferrules, almost always leak. They only have one O ring at each end so rarely seal properly. You can pull the ferrule out and add a second O ring but it shouldn't be necessary. The best ones I have found are these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-straight-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812106/ for straight connectors and these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/pneumatic-tee-tube-to-tube-adaptors/0812083/ if you want a Tee. Rated at 20 bar so twice the maximum the EAS system is ever going to get to and I've never had one leak yet.

The RSW software and a cable, whether you buy one or make one yourself, are almost a necessity. With the age of the cars now you only need a minor, intermittent, fault to cause a soft or hard fault and you'll find yourself on the bumpstops. Being able to reset it and carry on until you get chance to investigate further gives more reassurance than anything else. For around £20 for a cable and an old laptop you can save yourself weeks of frustration and I suspect many of the cars now on coil springs could be as they were intended for the want of the software.
 

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Of course, you could always jack the body up and chuck it so it doesn’t drop, as Richard said, there’s a few points you can get a lever bar in, it will come off, it’s got a few points that have Rtv,
a little levering and it will come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks again everyone for the suggestions. Good point about introducing Extra excuses for air leaks!! So far it all seems pretty air tight and I'd like it to stay that way!!
 

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I believe that 1/4" tubing has been used interchangeably on Rovers but maybe that is ok going that direction vs. using a 1/4" connector. Either way, I have used tees and schrader valves into my EAS line for 13 years. I purchased them as the MARS kit that I don't believe is around anymore. They may be 6mm connectors but most importantly they don't leak. That and the RSW EAS Buddy have always gave me confidence that an EAS fault won't cause me a serious problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi, another silly question!! I've got the multiplug apart, (C152). I'm assuming i should be connecting the male pins, not the female side to +12v? Also, there's no numbers on the plug and can't find anything in RAVE, how are the pins numbered? Assume it's top left 1, bottom right 13 as stood at the front of the engine?
 

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Yes, you connect to the male pins, the ones that go into the EAS box not the ones that come from the rest of the car. The female side is numbered as below so you can work out the numbers of the pins. That's why I suggested removing the plug from it's clip so you can see the wire colours to make identifying which is which easier.

C152.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you! You did indeed mention the colours, sorry, I'd not re read and forgotten ? but the picture does help!! I'd pulled the plug of the clip, but colours not great to see
I've got plenty to keep me going now!! Parts arrived today!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally got all the parts!! It's a nice sunny day!!
I've pulled the multiplug apart and connected +12v direct from the battery to pin 3 4&5, to raise the front. Nothing, no click, puff, bang, spark, no reaction at all. Tried with the key in and ignition on as well. Nothing!! Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? The battery is charged and the eas worked perfectlya couple of weeks ago
 
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