[ColoradoCrow]

Hello all.
So after replacing all 4 Airsprings with new Dunlops and rebuilding my valve block I have some leaks. I made sure I put the NRV back in properly and did not lube them. I actually did not lube any of the o rings. However My rear springs now lose air to the bump stops in a bout an hour. The compressor ran all the time and got super hot. So I pulled the EAS valve block to dive back in for round 2. I have read through RAVE and it appears that NRV 2,3 handle the airflow to the front and rear and I think it is not sealing well. When I had the block apart I noticed that the valves themselves had shiny metal I assume came from the galling of the ALuminum on the block itself. there seemed to be a few sharp edges. I plan on taking the new o rings off the NRVs and carefully filing down the rough spots. My fear is altering the shape of the cone so that even when the new o ring is put back on it will not seal. Can you buy new NRV cones? anybody know where? or have a part number. I have searched on LR direct without much luck. I also remember that the plunger O ring on the shaft of the solinoids seemed to have a touch of lube on them. Should I lightly relube my new solenoid plunger o rings? Those also could be my leak. All my o rings on the valve box to the air spring airlines, drier,and tank are super tight to remove and pass the soapy water test. No bubbles anywhere. The other though I had was my ride height sensors are old 130,000 miles on the truck and could be faulty and telling the ECU and the valves in turn to lower the truck. I will have to listen and observe for clicking of the solinoids when I get out. I might replace all 4 ride height sensors while I'm rebuilding the system.
Any information would be helpful especially those who have rebuilt EAS valve blocks

Colorado Crow

 

[ColoradoCrow]

It never occured to me to try the soapy water trick on the top of the solinoids to look for bubbles. Ill try that next Also the dancing of the front end points to dirty or malfunctiong ride height sensors....so a removal and cleaning is in order for them as well. I might just replace them. Still no luck on finding a source for a new NRV's.....

 

[chris no 10]

I seem to recall a very similar discussion about the nrv’s, you would think that someone could remanufacture some, but I guess it’s the old supply costs against manufacturers costs story, most people seem to buy another block and hope that they can make one out of the two..

re lube, lube all the collet Orings, outer sealing ring on diaphragm block, outer nrv , and inner as you mentioned
( only a very light lube)

 

[johnno42]

Was it working before you started?

 

[ColoradoCrow]

Thanks Chris. No Johnno it leaked pretty good hence my rebuild. I’ll look for another block at a junkyard as a backup.

 

[johnno42]

I meant the general operation. There is a possibility that a solenoid was put in the wrong place. Did you try pulling the relay under the seat to see if it made any difference?

Can you hear any air leaking from the block even if soapy water doesn't turn up anything? If there are leaks around the collets, you might need to give the lines a trim.

The compressor running all the time sounds like a big leak or else a valve is open. Have you checked the line to the air tank?

 

[ColoradoCrow]

I did pull the relay and it made no difference. However I have a Rover raiser and when I manually inflated them the air springs hold air for over a week. I did not hear any air leaks coming from the block. I was pretty tired after a long day so I plan on rechecking with a fresh mind. Air tank held air fine. So much so that when I manually deflated the air springs and unplugged them from the block I scared the crap out of myself when I unplugged the line from the tank. LOL.
Thanks for the input. I’m going to examine my NRV with a magnifying glass as well.

 

[johnno42]

By the sounds of that I would suspect a wiring problem, but my experience is limited, when I replaced all the bits in my block it all worked fine.

 

[pwood999]

Best solution is usually to bench test the valve block. When the driver pack is disconnected, all the valves should be closed, so it's easy to apply air pressure to each outlet in turn and check for corner valve leaks. Do the soapy water checks with the solenoid coils removed. This way you can see any leaks from the actual valves which is what really matters.NRV-1 is for holding tank pressure, and opens when pump is running.NRV-2 feeds inlet valve from tank when it plus any corner is opened.NRV-3 opens when exhaust valve opens plus any corner valve.Also go here and grab the EAS System Info Doc from the 2nd post. (can't upload 1.2MB pdf here) https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/checking-eas-compressor-and-diaphragm-valve.172555/Much better details than RAVE, and includes air-flow diagrams for tank fill, inflate & deflate corners.

 

[ColoradoCrow]

I took the valve block apart again and turns out an O ring on the solinoid shaft had buckled. I would recommend hauling a slight amount of Teflon lube. I used finish line brand made for bicycles. I used a slight amount in the o rings to keep them in place while I reassembled. Pay special attention to the solinoid shaft o rings. I turned them upside down and pulled down on the shaft to seat it filling as I put the top cover back on then held it tight as a filpped it back over and screwed it closed. It worked well. I also noticed the NRV holes in the block are obviously different. And I over stretched the springs on the diaphragm and the NRVs to help them out. I was very careful and it paid off. Thanks for all the help

 

[pepperman]

I have changed all o rings and check valve and truck leaning to driver side and something raised to high by itself!