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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

My car had a problem with front as both sides would drop over night & some times it's only one side that goes down. CHecked the air bags with soap water and no leaks. Thinking it's the VB playing up did a complete VB o-ring replacement with compressor seal.( hardrange instructions followed to the dot)
After completion the pump runs but the car won't rise. Even let the compressor run for about 7 mts with the driver's door open but no change. I don't have a pressure gauge to see the tank pressure. Checked with RSW software but no faults recorded & no faults shown in dash too. However, I kept the car on bump stops during the VB reseal which took about 10 days as I had to order a new set of seals.


Also, noted that when the door opened the ride height light stops blinking but starts blinking once the door is closed, irrespective of how long I kept the door opened. Usually I need to remind the system after few seconds of keeping the door opened.

My car is a 1997 MY with BMW diesel engine.
Any advise to get it running appreciated as this is my daily runner.

Thanks in advance.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I recommend fitting a pressure gauge as a first step. It helps a lot to diagnose an EAS problem.
It is an easy job, just fit a tee in the line going to the air tank. Just use push in connections as a quick fix then replace them with brass compression fittings later for a more permanent job. Use a 2" 0-12 bar gauge.
I have got a bench tester for valve blocks set up in my garage and I remember after rebuilding an air compressor with new seals, it took a full 6 mins to get an air tank up to 10 bars pressure from zero; this was just the tank without any air bags. Filling the tank and the air bags from scratch is going to take a lot longer, more than 7 mins, imho.
I have also found the car starts to lift at around 6 bars, if that helps.
I also recommend fitting a schrader valve in the system. It will allow you to pump it up with an air line.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
it has been my experience where a resealed air compressor fails soon there after, the blinking is telling you it is trying to reach that setting where the light blinks. my suggestion, replace compressor with new or known good working unit. do not reseal.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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For a quick check of the compressor, remove the intake silencer and put your finger over the intake hole...If it tries to suck your finger in, it is at least doing something......
A couple of weeks ago, I helped a friend with a $300 97 he picked up that was on the stops.
It was in hard fault. Reset with Nano, and it still would not pump up.
I manually turned on the compressor with Nano, and waited about 10 min.
The compressor will only continue to run this way if you stay on the appropriate "page" in Nano.......
I then cycled ignition off and restarted. EAS came up and restored normal operation.
Then, of course, the rear left bag blew out rather spectacularly......Got a spare from the old bits shelf, and he is now a happy camper with a $300 dollar Rangie!
I did have to go through the above procedure again after installing the new bag.......Not sure why, but it worked for me.
The compressor would not run on its own until there was air in the tank??
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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768 Posts
I had one that refused to rise, I stuck the jack under the tow hook to give it a start, which worked, sometimes, although rare, when on the stops the sensors go out of range
 

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If any work is done on the EAS that involved depressurizing the system, I always use the shop compressor for a first fill. Connect it to the top line from the dryer and it will fill the tank, with ignition off. With the tank at 6 to 8 bar the EAS should rise immediately, with the standard compressor kicking in to get to the required height. A standard compressor in good shape shouldn't have a problem filling a complete system, but it will take time and cause unnecessary wear. If it's already worn, you're in for a wait and possibly will end up with a new fault.

Filip
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies.
Removed the intake filter & the exhaust silencer from the EAS compressor pump. Then ran the system. It sucks air from the intake & at the same time it pushes it out from exhaust puff puff puff.......
What could be wrong? Could it be the diaphragm solenoid?

Also, my Nanocom just shuts down the moment it's asked to display EAS faults. (this has been an issue for a considerable time. anyway that must be something wrong with Nanocom. all other systems are okay)
Hence I use trusty RSW software. Incidentally, now it too does not show any faults. Should not it say, 'no air pressure'? or similar message.

I don't have a spare pump or VB and noway of getting any as P38 is a rare beast here.
In fact, I own this car for about 10 years. About 6 years ago I replaced all 4 bags, reseal the pump & VB too.

Hope I could try the method Escape suggested. Must rent a shop compressor.
 

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If it is leaking from the exhaust, it is the diaphragm valve that is leaking, probably split. Very cheap and easy to replace. If it is dropping overnight, then it sounds like you need to replace the O rings in the VB again. You won't get a no or low pressure fault as the only thing that checks the pressure is the pressure switch and all that does is switch off the compressor when the pressure in the system reaches roughly 10 bar and switches it back on when it drops. Nanocom will show you the status of the pressure switch but you have no way of knowing if it is closed because the system has no pressure at all or slightly less than 10 bar and just needs topping up a bit. EAS uses a different pin in the OBD socket to the other systems so you may have a problem just with that pin. I've also found that sometimes my Nanocom will disconnect if asked to display EAS Faults but if I check any of the other settings first it will then remain connected and display faults. You won't be able to connect if you have replaced the timer relay with a standard 4 pin one though.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
Let me check the diaphragm valve.

Thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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948 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
By the way, can I power directly the diaphragm solenoid? (the blue set of wires)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Found that I can give direct current & tested the diaphragm valve. It's working & stops leak from exhaust when pump running. That means the diaphragm valve is not powered by the control module. May be the control module at fault.
Your views please.
 

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1,332 Posts
The diaphragm valve is powered via the compressor relay, it splits off from the PLG wire that powers the compressor. If you're sure it's working when directly activated, you could just splice in a new wire (or look for damage/bad connections in the existing wire loom). Seems like an unlikely failure, maybe the valve is working but not sealing sufficiently. The electrical part only acts as a pilot, the actual diaphragm is closed or open by the air pressure in the system.

In an emergency, you can block off the exhaust filter to prevent the diaphragm valve from venting the compressed air. It will get you home, but shouldn't be used for too long as there are side effects. The diaphragm will act as a pressure relief valve to make it easier for the compressor on start up and the blocked exhaust will obviously prevent lowering (except through leaks).

Filip
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #13
Hi guys. Got it sorted out.
Thinking it's an electrical issue removed all the connectors & applied a good dose of contact cleaner.
Voila, the system came back to normal operation with no exhaust leak when the pump running. Ran
the pump for about 5 minutes , then let the pump cool down. repeated this for twice and car came to the standard setting which I have selected. left the car for 24 hrs now, apparently no leaks.

By the way, the pump seem to run intermittently for 2-3 second periods which is unusual.

Thanks to all of you.
 
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