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Discussion Starter #1
So I have been complaining about my noisy rattly compressor (and also a sagging rear end and noisy/squeaky trim) but today I happened to have the bonet up whilst the engine was running to check the mounts/washers etc and lo and behold the rattle started up and it is the lid/cover of the EAS box/housing rattyling away.

So, can I take it off and have the compressor etc 'exposed' or I was thinking of using some gaffa tape around it to seal it down. Any thoughst?

Cheers

Andy
 

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My thoughts --

* have you checked the condition of the mounting "rubbers"? - these would be favourite.
* gaffer tape would, I think, melt, or its glue would, causing a nasty mess.

When sorted, the compressor runs smoothly and cannot really be heard in the cabin.

Good luck.
 

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you can go without the lid, the RRC uses almost identical compressor/valveblock, and it's system is bolted to the frame in an open metal box, can get filthy (probably why it was moved for the p38) but it'll still work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies Spiggy and Dennis. The compressor is new as are the mounts and I am assured it is all fitted properly and functioning the way it should(there are a few recent threads on this) - but I am slightly curious that there is enough vibration to rattle the lid - but may be that's just a poor fitting lid - anyway it's is certainly the lid because i pressed down hard on it and it went away. I am looking forward to some peace. As I say there are only a few things that I can fault with my baby and they all come down to acoustic effluvia (read that term on the weekend and promised I would use it as soon as I could).

I am trying to upload a few photos of mine because I have just about got her the way I want but the size of the photo (bytes) seems too big even for one photo. The most recent venture was a complete high performance engine rebuild by Orger engines here in Melbourne - stroked (but not bored) out to 5.0 litres - high compression (about 9.9:1) and the thing just rumbles, grunts and sings. I'm only 500 km on the new engine so breaking her in gently at the moment but even doing that it has enough grunt to make you smile. Interestingly, running it in on diesel oil for the first 1000km. Just waiting on my Mark Adams chip/map upgrade and I'll dyno it and see what sort of figures I'm getting.


Thanks again

Regards
Andrew
 
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I used a few 1 inch pieces of weatherstripping the lip on the bottom part of the box. When the lid is snapped down it compresses the weather stripping and stops the rattle.
 

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Another thing that you might want to look into is the 3 bolts holding down the compressor. These bolts, which is fused to the plastic housing, can become loose, causing additional vibration.
 

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G'day ,i fitted a brand new compressor and it also was noisy ,ratley for a few weeks but now i can't hear it at all,runs smooth as a kitten Even with the hood up i can bearly hear it so time will tell for you. Depends who fitted it and if it has Nylon lock nuts check that they hasn't been over tightened onto washer with dish facing up like a bowl :D
So i think it need to break in and see how you go :pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the further replies - I'm running it topless and everything is peachy -
SelbyP38 - whereabouts in Melboure are you - I'm in Yarraville

Cheers

Andy
 

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A couple of bits of velcro pop-riveted to the upper and lower casing should do the trick too... not pretty, but effective I would say. This is what I intend to do when I've chopped a hole in the top of the compressor lid, since installing a Thomas compressor that is too tall for the lid to fit back on.

Cheers, Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Paul - is yours a 337 Thomas compressor - did you source it here in Aus? I haven't found anyone here in Aus that can sell me one.

Regards

Andy (Melbourne)
 

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andyaa said:
Thanks Paul - is yours a 337 Thomas compressor - did you source it here in Aus? I haven't found anyone here in Aus that can sell me one.

Regards

Andy (Melbourne)
Hi Andy - I got my Thomas compressor from Rover Renovations (Shupack = Dennis on this forum) for a good price, especially with the strength of the Aussie Dollar at the moment.

Is it the 337? Dunno, but it it twice as fast as a stock compressor to fill the tank from empty :D

Some pics and a narration of the install at http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-compressor-replacement/

Cheers, Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks paul - that's a great link to your website - I'll send an email to Dennis at Rover Renovations (I have the Gen III airbags and upreated fuel injectors from Dennis). I think I have asked Dennis about this before but I have not kept his email repsonse - I think RR can supply the 327 but not the 337 - I might be wrong. I notice quite a few forum members have the 337 so I am keen to see if anyone can supply that one and a price - I have downloaded the spec sheets for the two but don't have them in front of me now.

Thanks Andrew
 

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Check that the compressor is fitted exactly on the mounting bolts. Loosen it off and lift it up. It should slide easily. If it doesn't the rear mount need adjusting on the valve block. Unfortunately, the easiest way to do this is to remove the whole EAS compressor/valve block/box in order to be able to access (through slots in the box) the allen head capscrews that hold the rear mounting bracket.

I found this when I replaced my compressor. I didn't line up exactly and transferred a lot of noise as the rubbers were distorted.
 

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andyaa said:
Thanks paul - that's a great link to your website - I'll send an email to Dennis at Rover Renovations (I have the Gen III airbags and upreated fuel injectors from Dennis). I think I have asked Dennis about this before but I have not kept his email repsonse - I think RR can supply the 327 but not the 337 - I might be wrong. I notice quite a few forum members have the 337 so I am keen to see if anyone can supply that one and a price - I have downloaded the spec sheets for the two but don't have them in front of me now.

Thanks Andrew
I can get the 337 BUT they are more expensive, draw more amperage and have the same discharge pressure. The 337 is slightly faster, but at 4 minutes to fill a tank with the 327, not needed. The 327 is a bit of overkill, the 337 is allot of overkill. The big difference is in the follow/up numbers, the 327 I cary is the 56/12. The 56 is the stroke of the piston (which in part determines the speed/discharge pressure), 12= 12volts.

the 337's I've seen on ebay are 46 or 50/12, wich is a shorter stroke, = slower fill and lower final pressure (which keeps the max amps within acceptable ranges).

I spent allot of time on the phone with tech-reps ensuring the 56/12 was the right compressor for the RR.
 

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Another thing that you might want to look into is the compressor's motor end.

There are 2 spring loaded brushes, and if one of the brush is partially stuck in the enclosure, the compressor makes a lot of noise and cause a bit of a rattle.

Ask me how I know.....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks again for the further replies.

Shupack - can you give me the cost details of a 327 to Melbourne, Australia please. You can PM me if you prefer to [email protected]. I'm not sure if the 327 is the one advertised as the upgrade on the RR website.

Thanks

Regards

Andrew
 

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The factory just informed me it's a 6-8 week wait right now, they're moving and shutting down lines and re-starting in the new factory.
 
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