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Discussion Starter #1
So, over the long weekend I decided to overhaul the EAS system. I've rebuilt the valve block as well as replace the piston seal.
I decided to go through with the overhaul as the pump came on very frequently, and I didn't notice any leaks on air springs (they are about 6 months old).

On first start after the overhaul, here is the symptom that I saw
-EAS pump doesn't start. However, will start using EASUnlock.
-Height doesn't want to change. If I force it, using EASUnlock, just the rear goes up.
-EASUnlock shows no error codes.

So, is this a symptom of some mistake I made when putting the valve block together, or is it sounding more like a EAS drive pack issue?
 

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Have you checked the thermal switch in the pump mine was doing exactly as you described and turned out the thermal switch was dead
 

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JeremyD said:
Have you checked the thermal switch in the pump mine was doing exactly as you described and turned out the thermal switch was dead

I second that... likely only the rear coming up because of low air pressure in the reservoir, let the comp run for 10 (ish) minutes and it should come up.
 

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Recheck plug connection of solenoid driver pack and the main wiring harness.

Have you tested the pressure switch via the connection point.
I've had one where the pins for the connector get pushed back abit and not make contact.
Earth thin wire that goes to Compressor, if it then doenst kick in further investigating will be required.

It may pay to remove plug on EAS ECU and check out the connectors, here gain i've picked up problems where they spread open causing bad contact..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's some more information regarding my situation.

As mentioned before, EAS doesn't respond right even w/ EAS Unlock-ie When I instruct height level change, EAS won't do it. At best, just the rear comes up. W/ the EAS Unlock, I can, however, turn on the air compressor for as long as I want. With regards to the pressure switch, does it cause to shut off even when the compressor is operated manually?

So, following the above test, I've tried the pigtail method at EAS ECU connector to control the compressor as well as control the solenoids to adjust the individual airsprings. Air compressor turns on w/o a hitch, and I can adjust all 4 air springs.

Given the above, I think it's safe to say that the valve block is OK. Also, given the fact that I can turn on the air compressor w/ EAS Unlock or the pigtail method, doesn't that rule out the compressor as well?

So, going back to the original question, do you think the EAS driver pack is suspect?
 

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shupack said:
JeremyD said:
Have you checked the thermal switch in the pump mine was doing exactly as you described and turned out the thermal switch was dead

I second that... likely only the rear coming up because of low air pressure in the reservoir, let the comp run for 10 (ish) minutes and it should come up.
3 with that.

I had a friend, with same problem..... thermal switch (or bad contact, don´t remember), by pass the thermal circuit....
Don´t go to the drive pack for now.
 

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Quickest thing to do is to ground the EAS pump to earth, if the compressor runs and all is fine its the thermal switch I can almost guarentee you that the thermal switch is gone. As I said before I rebuilt my whole system expecting everything to be fine but when i put it back it was doing exactly as you say and the thermal switch was dead.
 

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IIRC Scotty has a couple of complete EAS systems at his place.
I know he has sent out parts before so that a customer can test each part etc. Then return the unused parts....

Martin
 

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TheoR said:
Could this be just a case of bad electrical connection somewhere, especially the harnesses?
I had a bad connection that I found thanks to Dennis a couple of years ago. it was the connector behind the drivers side kick panel IIRC.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, looks like the compressor is not getting the signal to turn on. Therefore, I have a constantly low air reserve, causing problems. Curiously, EAS ECU doesn't record any fault codes even after driving for 10-20 minutes (length of my commute), so I just get the blinking height level indicator all the way.

My thermal switch is OK, because I can turn on the compressor manually with either pigtail or software method, w/o grounding the orange wire.

So, is this a pressure switch issue? Would pressure switch tell the ECU that the tank pressure is full, even if it isn't?

Is the only way to check the pressure switch, a replacement w/ a known good one?
 

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I bet it is your thermal switch. It's NOT part of the circuit when you run the comp manually or by the software. Also common symptoms for bad switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
AHA! I didn't realize that the thermal switch didn't come into play if I turned on the compressor manually.

I'll do the continuity test right away. Sounds like an order for a thermal switch is in the horizon.
 

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I would rather sudjest earthing the orange wire than testing for continuity, when I tested the continuity sometimes I got it sometimes not after a while I was thinking my multimeter was acting up or there were dirty contacts turns out the switch was faulty and the only sure fire way of testing this was to bypass it and see if the pump worked if you dont want to damage the loom you can insert a small needle into the wire and then attach the earth to that
 

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Also as I found out once. If the pump has been unplugged then it takes the EAS system a couple of minutes to reset the thermal protection side of things and to allow the pump to work again.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, so I decided to ground the orange cable this morning, since I already had a cut made on the orange cable a while back.

Looks like all of you who guessed thermal switch was correct! Time to get a replacement thermal switch!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Good deal! Mystery solved huh?
I bet I know of 2 people who you can get one from....(Scotty or Dennis) :thumb:

Martin
 

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There's also a 3 minute delay in the ECU, so don't worry if it doesn't start right away.

The timer starts when the switch closes, but if you do it before you start the engine it should affect it.
 

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Don't rule out the simplest explaination. If your truck comes up when forced, could your height sensor or sensors be adjusted incorrectly or broken?

I had a constant low front right corner and found that while off-roading I had unknowingly hit an object just hard enough to tweak the height sensor mounting bracket enough to bend it up an inch and a half, therefore throwing my height off.
I could have bent it back but feared it would break so I simply recalibrated with EASUNLOCK. All good.
 
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