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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased a EAS Kicker Lite to reset my P38 eas faults, I followed the instructions on the manual turn the ignition to position II and plugged in the Kicker. The LED illuminate blue and flashes red once which indicate no reply in wakeup. I tried it several times with the same response.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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2 options as I see it.
The OBD port is not getting the signal from the EAS, or the Kicker is dead.
Any other P38's around you to try the Kicker on?
I had a similar issue years and years ago. Turned out to be a connector behind the dead man pedal on a left hand drive rig. There is a plug there, and most of the wires were green with corrosion! Took the plug out of the equation and its been fine since.

Martin
 

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or the Kicker is dead.
You would get no flashing lights at all if it was dead ;-)

The Blue LED indicates the device is working and as a result you then get either get a Green light to indicate success in clearing the fault codes, or a Red Light to indicate a problem in the vehicle which flashes a number of times to indicate the problem. As detailed in the user guide, one red flash is for when the ECU simply does not respond for some reason. Bad connectivity between the diagnostic socket and the EAS ECU is a most likely cause but it might also be that the EAS ECU is not powered up at all as a result of blown fuses or other bad connections.

These EAS kickers are pretty bullet proof.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Never even seen one Colin, so couldn't make the comment about it working or not mate!
So, if the lights flash, it is working period?
With the age of the average P38, I would look at bad connections on the rig, thus my suggestion of trying it on another P38 before anything else.
May be worth looking at that connector behind the panel too, if the fuse etc look OK. Solved a lot of issues on mine.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the reply. you was right, I tried the Kicker on another Range and it worked fine. I also checked the fuses and all were good. next I am going to check for bad connections but I am not sure where to start first, maybe I'll try the connector behind the panel as Martin stated. Do you know how to find out if the EAS ECU is bad?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Do a search and see which connection on the OBD port should have the EAS on it. Then see if there is continuity between it and the EAS ECM. Only way I know of to find a bad ECM is to have issues with it after the faults have been cleared etc.
I would guess more a bad connection than a bad ECM myself. That plug behind the kick panel drove me nuts until I discovered it!

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Martin, I tried the plug behind the kick panel unplugged it and cleaned it out and inspected all the wires behind there. I plugged everything back in place and tried the Kicker again and the same thing occurred, flashed blue and then red once. I don't know what to do next, now I am really thinking on converting to coil springs to eliminate the problem.

don
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
please explain in layman terms how to find out if the eas delay relay is power cycling. thank you for your help.


don
 

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Watch the [unlatched] EAS "Inhibit" switch amber tell-tale light, you will also hear the relay click. If this light is on then the EAS ecu is powered up. On certain routines the EAS must power cycle, this is seen at the light too, it will turn off perhaps 1 or 2 seconds and then back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for the reply larry S. well I followed your advice and watched to see if the Inhibit switch lights up and hear the relay click. to my surprise I found that the relay doesn't click and the Inhibit switch doesn't light up which mean that my ecu is not powering up. Any advice on what to do next? thanks.

don
 

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Although you say you couldn't hear the relay, does the bulb work first off? (you can just latch the switch briefly to check, with key position II). Then start to check the circuit/fuses with a multimeter, check the relay is getting battery voltage for a start, this is Pin 2 (purple/red) at the relay's base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes Larry S the bulb worked when I latched the switch briefly, I also checked the fuses with a multimeter and the relay. what is the voltage I am supposed to get on pin 2 of the relay's base? because my multimeter got 16 volts the first time I checked and then 18.6 volts a second time. don't know what to do next.
 

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...err, Battery voltage, the same as if you measured between the positive and negative at the battery. Don't really understand how you come to get those figures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know what you mean Larry S. I don't understand the voltage either, maybe my multimeter is not functioning correctly I don't know. I have to tell you I had a problem with that relay before which I ended up changing the relay. maybe the relay has gone bad again and need to be changed.
 
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