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Discussion Starter #1
I rebuilt the valve block with new o-rings and replaced all 4 bags and compressor.

It was running well and has never had a hard fault.

It now appears to run the compressor far too much.

Every morning it sits just fine and never reaches it's bump stops.

BUT...
When the engine's running the compressor's virtually constantly running.

I removed the EAS exhaust silencer and noticed the front end will raise an inch or so and then there's a gush from the exhaust, then it will raise again. (cycling between the two -(raise - gush))

I've read the sticky but am unsure if i'm needing to look at diaphram or NRV?

thanks in advance
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Did you check your sensor heights using the EAS software? One or more of them may be giving you trouble and the system may be struggling to calibrate the correct height. I sort of have the same problem with my R-F sensor and now and then it would set a Random EAS error (never a hard fault). The system seems to reset itself the next ignition cycle. I never got around to swap the sensors around. The EAS software should detect any error codes in the system to give you an idea of what is happening.
 

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Are you sure it is the EAS compressor that is running and not the ABS ? they are close together and sound a lot alike....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
checked with eas software to find

1 : Vehicle speed fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : FR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
7 : Vehicle has moved

once cleared then rechecked after a few ups and downs the only falt which came back was 7: vehicle has moved.

All ride heights seem to be correct.
 

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Yep, those are typical of the errors when one of my arms was not reading right. Try it again in a few drive cycles and see if those codes appear again. Denesh had a similar result, I think, but I don't remember seeing the speed fault.

Sometimes those codes might be normal, .... all I know is that I could go for weeks without most of them being revealed by the eas software- until the front right started acting up again.

Swapping them from side to side worked on my RRear problem, but has not so far on the front. I am holding out to get some of Dennis' longer reach arms when I buy shocks.
 

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open the door and let the engine idle, if it slowly climbs, shut the door, it should then drop. that's a leaky NRV. If it doesn't move with the door open then it's a sensor issue (as above).

Rock, the sensor arm modification is of your sensor, so go ahead and get new sensors now (if you like) to clear up your issues, then modify them when you put on longer shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies Dennis & Rock, I've checked to see if there's a climb with the door open and no movement.

Time for a couple of sensor swaps.
(i assume swapping the front ones as there's a FR within the error codes)

I've read that some sensors are not swappable is there any way to check before pulling them off?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Replaced the front left height sensor (STC3578AA) (as the raise fall appears to be just on the front left).
Very easy to replace. Unbolt old with 8mm socket and bolt new one on. The electrical connection is behind the wheel well. I managed to get to it without removing the wheel well but it would have been easier if it was removed (and would have kept more skin on the back of my hands

The old sensor sounds gritty as it is moved.

Still no change to the rise and fall cycle.

Dennis, i tried as you suggested "open the door and let the engine idle, if it slowly climbs, shut the door, it should then drop. that's a leaky NRV." and it stayed static.

Let me guess that it'll be the front right sensor?
Any other suggestions?
 

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could be, watch the compressor cycling, if it starts/stops as suspected the PS is fine. I've only seen 1 bad PS, it was damaged in shipping.....

what do the height values read on the UNLOCK software?
 
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