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EAS How long to change heights?

1327 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  PaulP38A
I've recently rebuilt my valve block with the "O" ring kit, and added home made rubbers seals to the end of the solenoid valves.

Last night I fitted a brand new compressor (not a rebuild).

My question is now:

Look at the pressure guage in the morning (I have the EAS remote air and gauge kit) and see approx 110 - 120 psi on the guage.

This means the truck should rise almost instantly to the normal height?

Instead the access light stays on with the normal light blinking for about 4-5 minutes.

I have reset the EAS a couple of times. It seems IF it can't get to the correct height in a specified time it gives in and hard faults.

How long does an EAS sytem in good working order take to change heights?

It would seem the EAS driver is the next likely villian?

96 P38
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Jeff - check out the write-up on "EAS Valve Block Renew" at http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/, especially the bit about non-return valves.

Since rebuilding my vavle block and replacing the stock compressor with a Thomas one http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-compressor-replacement/ from Rover Renovations, change from highway to normal height is a couple of seconds. From access to normal is probably 4-5 seconds.

Cheers, Paul.
tasi devil said:
firstly, a big thanks to Paul the links are great and the pics make the process very clear. :thumb: :D
pleasure, hope it helps :D
tasi devil said:
secondly, mine is doing the same thing as MoodyBlues. and the compressor (Thomas from Dennis @ RR) is seeming to run more than necessary.
i have replaced everything, Bilsteins, GenIII's, Driver, Pressure switch, Compressor, rebuilt valve block (someone else did it for me), have installed one of Andy E's Bypass kits (same as Pauls).
it maintains pressure no leaks, but is slow changing heights, read minutes not seconds. thought that was normal :doh:
as soon as the new 'o' ring/diaphragm kit and height sensor extensions get here from Dennis/RR i will redo the valve block myself and replace the height sensors with some 2nd. hand height sensors i have.
I notice the compressor runs a lot when stopped at traffic lights even though the ride height is correct. Take my foot off the brake and it stops (no, it's not the brake accumulator pump). No idea why this happens. The old compressor did it too.
I do have a slow leak somewhere in my system again. I'm changing over the T-pieces and will re-check the collets on the valve block at some stage when I get a chance.
Have you tried swapping height sensors from one side to the other? Maybe a bit late if you're getting new ones, but worth checking if you are so inclined

tasi devil said:
so my question is re the non-return valve how will i know if it's in backwards ? can anyone post a pic of right way wrong way ?.
is there anything else that will cause the same issue ?
Paul i did take note of the pic of non-return valve(s) but just a bit unsure of how it all works, can they be replaced out of sequence shown ? and does that cause the slow response ?
I'm sure they need to go in this sequence

The way I understand it is that one NRV stops air from the tank leaking back to the drier (on the inlet valve side), another stops backflow to the tank from the inlet valve, and the other stops compressor side air hitting the outlet valve.
I'm not sure which NRV does what in the picture though... haven't tried to trace it... although looking at the position of the pressure relief valve in the pic, I'm guessing the bottom NRV is the one that goes to/from the tank.
... but I could see that if a NRV was in the wrong way around (assuming that it fits) it would be ineffective due to the tapered head.
You might be on to something here Tasi... or it might just be that they aren't seating properly due to the o-rings, especially if one or more of the solenoids are also leaking back and fighting the incoming air.

Cheers, Paul.
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