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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have done a lot of reading on the EAS system and have purchased a rebuild kit for the valve block which I intend to do next week.
Some history on my truck.
Previous owner replaced compressor and all 4 bags before I bought the truck. Eas sytem works good most of the time but sometimes the front end takes a long time to rise. Also the truck sometimes rises up by itself while parked. I have checked several times for leaks and there is none.
I have built a cable and after some connect issues I got EASunlock working. After reading the height settings from the truck I saw that some of them are way off where they should be. For instance the access settings are as follows: FR 0 FL 0 RR 0 RL 71
Is this normal? Why would they be at 0? The other height settings were off but not as far off.
I have resinged to the fact that I am to build some blocks to set the heights which I will do after the valve block rebuild.
I was getting an error from the EAS for the last few days. The 35MPH warning would flash with all the lights on the buttons lighting up. This would occur after driving down the road for couple of hundred yards. When I read the codes with EAS unlock there were over 20 codes but I read that these are generated from a bad connection which I had the first time I did the cable. Recieve wire was not soldered right and the software would not initiate connection. So after redoing the cable I got no errors. Does the system store soft faults?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
System should store faults period. If it pops up, it should be capable of being read.
As an experiment try pulling the delay relay under the seat when you park it for the night and see if it moves then.
If it does, it's the valve block, if not it's electrical (ecm, driver, etc)

Martin
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It could be a coincedence but after messing around with EASunlock last night I did not get the error since. The removing the delay relay test could take a while as most nights the truck does not move.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
Since you have ordered the rebuild kit anyways, go ahead and do that first before anything else as it could be VB related.
Word of advise though, if you have a manual inflation setup, test the lower solenoids for leaks before putting the valve block back in. Hook up the airlines while the block is still out, and inflate the bags manually. Spray around all solenoids with soapy water, as well as the airline collets.
Never tried to inflate it with the EAS when doing this, but imagine it would still work but just take longer.
If you do not have a manual inflation setup, get one asap. Worth their weight in gold for various reasons. Not only as an emergency backup, but when working on the rig, it makes it a piece of cake to adjust the height of the rig when working above and below it.
Scotty sells a very nice one called the "Rover Raiser".
http://www.socalusedroverparts.com/product_p/rrf.htm
Martin

Martin
 

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Premium Member
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2,565 Posts
Those values are not normal, it's almost impossible to have those values (If its actually being reported correctly) unless the sensor wires are either open circuit or closed circuit, it should never have (or expect to see) anything 40 or below (your 71 value is correct), likewise 225 or above.

If you wished to confirm it pull the EAS ecu connector (see main site, "field recovery" or "jumpering" and you'll need RAVE for the sensor pin No's) and measure those particular wires for resistance/continuity.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
I was being wary of the readings Larry, as the OP admitted to having issues with the lead he made etc, so thought it may be a lack of communication issue. But you are of course spot on, those values should not exist in the ecm.

Martin
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
The initial cable issues were fixed. I got those values from the calibration screen when I requested them from the ecu. On the height screen the sensors read correct when requested. I can press the + or - for any corner and the sensor changes. I can also request the truck to goto any height and it does. Everything in EASunlock works great. I changed the 0's to 71 and wrote them to the ECU no problem. I will test the continuity of the sensors when I am doing the valve block.
Another symptom I am having is the front end will rise after I put the truck in park. As if it dropped a bit while driving. Also this happens sometimes when I stop at traffic lights with my foot on the brake.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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21 Posts
The o-ring replacement kit just arrived from Scotty. This will be my first attempt to replace all the o-rings. Besides reading the valve block instructions by Paul from Hard Range, what else do you recommend I follow. I've read, I'm not sure, that I need to re-program the entire system once the new o-rings are in. At least that what RSW Solutions has me believing. Ever heard of the buddy box RSW sells?
 

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It won't need reprogramming (calibrating i presume you mean) as nothing has been done to alter the feedback, if you've changed a sensor(s) then just that one would ideally be done, but it should be close anyway.

It will need unlocking (perhaps thats actually what your asking) if your stuck on the bumpstops and everything is lit up. Then you can unlock with that free [rsw] software and specific (made or bought) cable. But you will still need to have fixed any issues, unlocking a 'hard fault' by itself is not the fix.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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21 Posts
Larry:

For clarification I''m not on the bumpstops. There's a video by RSW that indicates one must depressurize the EAS before removing the o-rings. What I'm not sure about and having trouble determining is whether this means using the RSW cable/software to depressurize the EAS or what Storey actually meant is to remove the air intake lines before removing the entire valve block. In addition, Storey recommends putting down a jack to support the vehicle before the intakes lines are out. A jack at this junction does not seem necessary, but I may just be missing the big picture. Any ideas? I'm trying to flush out these questions (and others) before this weekend so I can start the o-ring replacement process Sunday morning. Thanks for your help!
 

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The only thing holding the vehicle at a height (so to speak) is the valveblock, so of course you have to remove the air and therefore lower the vehicle in order to remove the valveblock, or work on it if it involves breaking the air circuit.

Yes the RSW software will deflate the system and the airbags allowing you to remove the airlines, If you don't have the cable to do that have a look at the main site for the field recovery / jumpering at the EAS ecu, you will be able to lower the vehicle also and exhaust the system but you will need to open inlet and exhaust solenoids at the same time.

Alternatively if your system is working you could disable the compressor from running and just deplete any remaining air by raising it and lowering it, then carefully start to remove the airline until it hisses and then leave it alone for a few minutes to remove all excess pressure before continuing, only do this if you comfortable with what your doing, most will have leaks or be in hard fault and so often would not have any pressure to really worry about, but as always caution first.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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This is sound advise.

The vehicle is not experiencing hard faults. I have previously replaced one of the intake line o-rings by keeping a door open, which disallowed the compressor from generating air. The last procedure you mentioned sounds like the recommendation of keeping a door open, correct?
 

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Door open is to prevent height changes really - compressor can still run - usually used when the engine is running and you want it to build up system pressure before it trys to go to a higher (standard) profile, it would do nothing to prevent sudden loss of air from a removed airline, so not really sure which airline your referring to.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
OK back to my original post. Yesterday I did the Valve block rebuild. After putting everything back together I opened the tailgate and started the truck. After 10 mins the compressor did not stop. It was starting to warm up. I checked for leaks at all the connections and there was none. After 15 mins pump was still running so I shut her down.
I pulled the block again and double checked everything making sure all o-rings were seated correct. Nothing out of place. I put everything together and crossed my fingers! After 13 mins the compressor stopped. I closed the tailgate and the truck went to access height. Hooked up EASunlock and found no faults. I checked the system for leaks and tested each height setting. Everything looked good, time for a beer!
So here I am today and when I looked out my window this morning the front of the truck looked higher than normal and the rear was on the bumb stops. Feck I wish I never touched it as I'm worse off now. It did rise up no problem without much pumping so the tank is not leaking out. Time to get the soapy water out again!
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
This is how she looked after being parked for an hour! Makes me sad! :crybaby2:
00.jpg
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #17
I did not test the timer removal as the rear dropping is a new symptom after the rebuild of the block. I will do after work today and see what happens.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I got home at 5pm and by 5:45 the rear had dropped. So I started the truck and it went back to the correct height from the tank air. Shut it down and pulled the timer. I will post back soon with results!
 

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since the timer shouldn't have been on in that time frame (6 hour intervals) then that points to bad leaks.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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535 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
So if the pipe connections are not leaking which solenoid valve should I be looking at? I double checked all of them last night and they are all perfect.
One thing I did notice is that the rubber on the end of the valve plungers have indents. These indents are not always center so I could not see these seating correct after install as it would be near impossible to reinstall exactly as they were originally. Is there anything I can do with these rubber parts?
Also I would have to have more than one internal leak to drain both rear bags! Right?
Just found this and I am going to try it tonight.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/47245-eas-plunger-repair.html
 
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