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Discussion Starter #1
Well today , a bit of sun, so I decided to replace the front airsprings,or at least the right one which has been leaking for a while.
The existing airsprings are OEM and could be orginal. The five years I have had the vehicle they have had a reasonable hard time from offroad trips in South Africa in up to 40 C at times to the snow and -7c here in the UK.

My admiration to all the EAS experts here,especially the ones who can replace a airspring in 30 minutes without removing the wheel of wheel arch lining.

I attempted to do so with the wheel in place ,but could not remove the one top retaining clip.So off came the wheel and liner.Much easier now to access the clip.
Also able to clean all the debris from behind the mudflap.Found an interesting rubber tube behind the mudflap.Just lying there not connected to anything.About 3inch long,.5 inch dia and tapering split end at one end.Possibly a end cap/valve from a drain tube.Could not find anything to connect to.Any ideas anyone?.

The hardest thing to do was to get the bottom retaining pin back through the bottom of the new OEM spring.No matter how I twisted couldnt get a view to see what I was doing ,so had to do by feel.must have taken an hour!.

One question,I presume the new spring had o rings already installed in the collet,as there were none on the airline I disconnected,and I simply inserted it into the new spring and it seems to seal ok so far.

Inflated the spring while on the jack using my MSV and then lowered the vehicle.
Once on the ground all worked ok and the compressor ran for 6minutes before cutting off.

The new Dunlop spring the bottom section is plastic while the orginal is aluminium.Anyone had any experience with the new plastic ones breaking?

It took a total of 3 hours to do the right front only.Too tired to do the other side today,so will wait until warmer weather as the left dosent appear to be leaking at this stage.

Once again thanks to all who have recorded their experiences on the forum,they have been a great help. `)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Rears on a good day a touch over 15 mins

Front......buggers it depends but 20mins aside on average

Trick is to raise vehicle up max height, support with stands, front one on each side of lower rad crossmember,
Rear, place one stand where tow bar would be/ is fitted (large stands required)
A good pointer is to make sure top of wheels are a below wheel arch liners and then its a breeze in the park
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i am sure it will be quicker next time.
I have Goodrich all terrains on which have a greater diameter than the the Scorpions I replaced and I think this makes it more difficult with wheels on.
No problem with jacking up,I have a 3ton trolley + bottle jacks+ stands.

How is JHB lately.Miss the good old Cape,but not the South Easter! :thumb:
 

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Congrats on a successful DIY job. How many miles did you get on the originals? I did my fronts at 81,000 and rears at 110,000 miles. Only one was leaking each time, but I replaced in pairs.

Brett
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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They do tend to differ in difficulty. I did the rears on a 99 Thor with about 85k on the clock. Both lower pins broke in place, one upper pin came our easiy enough, but I had to drive a screwdriver through the plastic above the upper pin to release the second. Turned into a 90 minute job, even on a lift. Anyway, next time it should be easier, as it has copper grease on the pins.

I think the problem with the alloy lowers of the original spring were that with it's position (i.e. pretty much in line with all the elements including road salt), the thing could weld itself to the axle mounts. I think the plastic modification was probably to stop this. :think:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Brett San Diego said:
Congrats on a successful DIY job. How many miles did you get on the originals? I did my fronts at 81,000 and rears at 110,000 miles. Only one was leaking each time, but I replaced in pairs.

Brett
93000miles on the orginals.I had intended to replace in pairs,just took too long in the cold to do the first one.As the vehicle stays up overnight now I will replace the left one as soon as its a bit warmer. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rich998a said:
They do tend to differ in difficulty. I did the rears on a 99 Thor with about 85k on the clock. Both lower pins broke in place, one upper pin came our easiy enough, but I had to drive a screwdriver through the plastic above the upper pin to release the second. Turned into a 90 minute job, even on a lift. Anyway, next time it should be easier, as it has copper grease on the pins.

I think the problem with the alloy lowers of the original spring were that with it's position (i.e. pretty much in line with all the elements including road salt), the thing could weld itself to the axle mounts. I think the plastic modification was probably to stop this. :think:
I,d sell the wife for a lift!.
Are you running Dunlops with the plastic lowers,without any problems, Rich?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I'm still runing a pair of GenII on the front but I havn't had time to replace them for Dunlops just yet. The GenII's are also plastic, and no issues with the lower plastic parts. I've been running the Dunlops on the back for a while now. I think there is an issue with my near side one, hence the change. I'm having a very strange wear pattern on the tyre and it looks like either the airspring is bad/damaged, or the Dealer didn't calibrate my n/s/f sensor properly when they replaced it 2.5 years ago. I've either got to build a set of EAS calibration blocks (thanks AllyV8) or just get a set from SPX Service Solutions. Then I could do it myself with T4. I think they are about £130 + Vat.

Interestingly, there are 2 types of p38 airsprings available, I notice on MicroCat. The Dunlop made ones are one type. The second is another manufacturer. I just caught my eye the other day. I think the dampers used need to be matched with both types, so there is another set of dampers available also. :think:
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The Arnott Gen IIs have plastic ends as well. I've put Gen IIs on all round but one of my rears cracked after 4 months causing total failure of the spring. I was unimpressed to say the least, especially as it was after the first lane of a day's off roading that I had been looking forward to for weeks.

Guy
 

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I am beginning to feel like a paid up member of the Rangie community! my driver side front airspring split this morning - actualy overnight, so i missed the excitement of the shotgun bang, never mind, on the way to the workshop to diagnose why all was not well i got a bit delayed, enjoyed the ride on its bump stops, and now have the EAS fault warning. Had i been certain that the bag had failed rather than an iced up pipe as I thought could be a possibility, I would have put some thought into isolating the pump so that it did not run the risk of damage by running hot.

120K miles, original fronts, rears replaced by previous owner recently - by the look of them. The fronts were in very poor condition so no real surprise!!
Two new airbags on their way o/nite delivery, so with luck, i will get it sorted soon enough. :pray:

Already have the EAS reset software and cable, so thanks to rangerovers.net i am ready to have it 'brought on'! :snooty:

Gordon
 
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