Range Rovers Forum banner
Cancel

EAS fault - help needed!

1737 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  shupack, 
T
So, I've replaced my leaky airsprings recently so I thought the coast was clear for awhile, but instead I got a EAS fault couple days ago-A hard fault: 35mph and below and bump stop.

I've tried to reset the EAS using RSW's free software, but nothing....I've followed the steps, clearing the fault then disconnect the airbag ECS cable.

Noting that compressor doesn't start (even through RSW software), I looked at fuse 29 and 40...they look OK.
I also took apart the compressor itself....bearing is OK, no short present, and the teflon seal on the cylinder looks OK, too..

I think EASunlock can't reset the fault, since the compressor is not filling the airtank to bring the entire system back alive...So, what's causing the compressor to not start up?

You guys' input is much appreciated.
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
G
Check to see if the orange wire on the compressor plug has continuity. If the wire is open, the overheat circuit has malfunctioned. Try installing a jumper wire to a good ground. Start the car with the driver door open, let compressor run for 6-8min to refill tank.
I replaced leaky bags and repaired my inop compressor with the above fix .
Reply
Save
Like
V
Have you tried a new relay in fuse box....
Reply
Save
Like
T
Hello, thanks for the tips.

Anyhow, I've tried both the jumpering the compressor orange cable to ground and swapping out the relay w/ another one. The symptom remains, and the only thing I'm getting when I jumper cable 1 & 8 of airbag ECS is a clicking sound. Not sure where the clicking sound is coming from, but it's audible from the driver's seat and appears to be coming from the EAS box in the engine room.

Any experience w/this clicking sound? I'm starting to wonder maybe that the EAS driver module has gone bad. What are the symptoms if the driver module goes bad, and is there any way I can test it other than to swap it w/ a known good one?

Thanks
Reply
Save
Like
T
OK, so I have a continuity between the black cable and the orange cable coming out of the compressor so I know I probably have a problem with the thermal switch.

What gets me is that I have attached a jumper cable from a little cut I made on the orange cable to ground (i just attached it to part of the body panel). Now, I'm no expert w/ electronics so not sure if I'm doing this right.....Do I have to completely cut the orange cable and connect to the ground? Or, jumpering is enough?

Also, once the above procedure is done(correctly), before the compressor can operate, do I have to clear the EAS fault w/ EASUnlock or do a jumper test, ie pin 1&8 on the EAS plug?

Thanks
Reply
Save
Like
S
TheoR said:
OK, so I have a continuity between the black cable and the orange cable coming out of the compressor so I know I probably have a problem with the thermal switch.
Click to expand...
something is backwards. continuity is good, no continuity is bad. If you have continuity you don't have a problem with the TH switch, if you don't have continuity then you're right, you have a problem with the TH switch.
Reply
Save
Like
T
Ok, these electrical stuff is confusing......

I have continuity, so thermal cutoff is functioning properly, and thus the compressor is probably OK.....That explains it, because even when jumpering the orange cable, I got the same results...

Now, the question is, what could be the culprit? Is it the drive box or the ECS itself that's preventing the compressor from running?
Reply
Save
Like
S
the driver module doesn't affect the compressor starting, if you can't get it to start manually it's not the ECU. possibly bad wiring or the motor itself may be bad.

If you jumper the relay, that should start the compressor.
Reply
Save
Like
T
For starters, I'm glad to hear that the driver module is probably not the culprit.

Hearing that the compressor should start by itself, I think I'll concentrate on what's causing it not to run...

I think I'm gonna start w/ the maxi fuse. Although it looks OK, possibly it's got some faults...If that doesn't solve it, I think I'll source a second hand compressor and see what happens, assuming the one I have currently has some kind of a fault(s).
Reply
Save
Like
S
careful with the second-hand, it may be worse than what you have now.
Reply
Save
Like
S
Not wanting to throw fuel on the fire but... I'm sure I read somewhere that after the multiplug for the compressor has been unplugged and then reconnected it takes a couple of minutes for the EAS controller to reset itself and power up the compressor. I could be wrong though...
Reply
Save
Like
S
Shadow Keeper said:
.....I'm sure I read somewhere that after the multiplug for the compressor has been unplugged and then reconnected it takes a couple of minutes for the EAS controller to reset itself and power up the compressor. I could be wrong though...
Click to expand...
that's true. if you unplug the compressor (with the ignition on) the ECU will think the compressor has been overheated and wait 3 minutes before it tries again.
Reply
Save
Like
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Range Rovers Forum
We’re a community forum to discuss and assist on issues with every Range Rover model. Sign up if you have a question, answer or to meet like minded individuals
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Range Rover Mark II / P38 Range Rover Mark III / L322 Range Rover Sport / L320 Range Rover Sport II / L494 Range Rover Classic
Top