[pato69mx]

Hello to you all fellow RR enthusiasts.


Here we go again, an apology in advance, yes I've read common issues and repairs + past threads ( a lot as you can imagine ) trying to figure this out but I ended up more confused this time ( previous times I was always able to identify and/or fix my issues after a day of reading and troubleshooting). There are so many threads and so many approaches to EAS issueas and faults.


Again an apology in advance and here I go... Due to tons of work and a family situation I've been sitting in Scotty's kit to rebuild my VB and my Compressor for a month ( a mistake on my side ). Trying t make this short... It started while ago with the truck rear end on bumps some mornings ( pumping up in 5 min no problem ), I found out that this happened when left overnight on normal ride height, if left on extended it will be ok in the morning... butttt after sometime also found out that if I left home without at least 15-20 min of warming up ( of course compressor running ) as soon as I hit the 35mph automatic to normal ride height the back end will go all the way to bumps ( not the front ). In colder days below 50°F (10°C) is more frequent than in warmer temperatures.


Well today I left after my usual 15-20 min warming up ( was on extended ride height ) and after dirving like 3 miles below 35mph I took the expresway ( motorway for friends abroad ) hit 35 and went down to normal... ( inhibitor on like I did not wanted go down to cruise height ) and after 10 miles or so... EAS FAULT message, all light un in the slector and rear down to bumps... No 35mph message at all.. like I was short on time to left a relative at the airport I had to continue like that for another 60 miles and back so it was a 140 miles trip like this...



Compressor is not kicking in, I've tried disconecting the battery, yes after some reading here I know now EAS does not respond to that and fault of course still there, I jumped relay 20 and it works, tried with a spare relay and nothing happens, all engine box fuses looks ok ( didn't check the MAXI's ) when I jumped relay 20 i left the compressor running for 15 min to see if like others have posted even with the fault the back lifted, nothing here.


Any toughts?


Thanks in advance


PS... does anyone knows where can I gete here in the US a ready to work cable for Storey EASunlock, I don't trust my welding/solderind skills and ebay sells them form 20 to 100 and so different that I really don;t know which one.

 

[SpiggyTopes]

Well, I think the first stop is the valve block overhaul, plus possibly a new compressor cylinder and piston kit.

Out of interest, have you done the soapy water test at the valve block pipes and solenoids, and also the rear springs themselves and their pipe inlets?

I really think you have to go step by step on this, but others may have a flash of inspiration.

Doesn't Storey W still sell the cable?

 

[Gilbertd]

It's gone into hard fault. You've been running it so long with, what would appear to be, leaking rear air springs that it has given up trying to keep the rear end up. You need the cable and software to reset it and a pair of rear springs.

 

[ukadamwest]

It's gone into hard fault. You've been running it so long with, what would appear to be, leaking rear air springs that it has given up trying to keep the rear end up. You need the cable and software to reset it and a pair of rear springs.

+1

New air bags, valve block O/H ,compressor O/H kit, maybe a thermal switch, data cable

 

[pato69mx]

Out of interest, have you done the soapy water test at the valve block pipes and solenoids, and also the rear springs themselves and their pipe inlets?

Doesn't Storey W still sell the cable?

Did the soapy water on the VB no problems there, not on the springs. I understand Storey just sells the cable along with the new software version, just eMailed him.

 

[pato69mx]

+1

New air bags, valve block O/H ,compressor O/H kit, maybe a thermal switch, data cable

And for you guys thanks, I will remove the Compressor and VB today after work and start working on it, if I can get my hands on the cable and reset the fault I'll try to rise the truck and do the soapy water on the springs.

If anyone has a lead on the cable please let me know.

Raul

 

[ukadamwest]

Check your PMs

 

[Gilbertd]

Don't bother with the Valve block and compressor, you said you've checked and found no leaks so if it ain't broke, don't fix it. There must be a supplier in the US for the cable somewhere, there's a number of them over here. I just went onto eBay.com in the US, put EAS in the search box and this http://www.ebay.com/itm/RANGE-ROVER..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item339c07bd2a&vxp=mtr was the second item. It will do everything you need and you don't need to spend far more on the V3 that RSW is selling. From the video of it being used it actually looks a lot more complicated to use than the free V2.

Get the cable, get some rear air springs and sort it. It's not rocket science.....

 

[pato69mx]

Thanks as usual Gilbertd, looking for the air springs right now, If I have Dunlop's on front will it be an issue to upgrade to GIII's in the back? On the cable I've read so much about some cables working and others not that I was looking for some pointers of who got what.

Thanks

 

[ukadamwest]

I wouldnt bother with Gen III's they give extra travel but you need to change the shocks to provide extra travel. I have Gen II's on both the P38's they are a tiny bit firmer than than the dunlops and i got them when they still had the lifetime warranty.

 

[Gilbertd]

The only time the cables don't work is when people try to use them with a USB adapter. The EAS system is a serial device and an older computer with a serial port is the ideal way to connect. A USB to serial adapter with the FTDI chipset as the one I linked to will usually work fine, it's cheaper adapters and computers running later versions of Windows that cause problems. It's no different to anything else that uses serial communications. Most LPG systems need a serial connection to programme them and people will often have problems connecting, or connections that keep dropping out, when trying to use USB. I use an ancient Panasonic Toughbook (with a Celeron 600 MHz processor and a whole 512k of RAM) running Windows 2000 through a serial port that will connect to everything yet the LPG system on the SE will refuse point blank to connect to a later laptop using a USB adapter.

Stick with Dunlops, the ones in there have lasted for 15 odd years so there's no reason to think anything else is going to work better.

 

[pato69mx]

Well guys thanks again to all, now I have a clear idea what to do or at least where to start.

PEOPLE HELPING PEOPLE that's about it and again for me it's happening here, rolledover ( to use his RR.NET ID ) saw my post and offered me an original storey's serial cable he has as spare like he's using nanocom now. Price is a gift really and he even offered to send it tomorrow so I can get it by Friday / Saturday. Second time Max help me as I got from him a pair of fogs lights also at a really great price.

I'll update over the weekend as I start working on the truck. Any further advice or recommendation will be highly appreciated.

Regards

Raul

 

[pato69mx]

Hello and TGF.

Thanks to fellow forum member rolladover the serial cable is arriving later today. I've been doing some reading and everybody mention using the RSW older software with Windows XP and Vista. Does anybody have experience on Windows 7 or 8?? My laptops run on those but both have the serial port.

Thanks in advance.

Raul

 

[Gilbertd]

If you've got a serial port then you should be OK but what laptops are they? I've never seen anything new enough to run Win 7 or 8 that has a serial port other than some of the later Panasonic Toughbooks.

 

[pwood999]

USB-Serial works fine with EAS-Unlock on both my win7 Laptop, and Macbook running win7 in virtual machine. The trick is to get a decent FTDI USB-Serial adapter, and the correct drivers.

Don't use cheap chinese adapters
Don't use the drivers supplied on Ebay CD supplied with cheap adapters.

 

[pato69mx]

Yes Gilbert you are totally right... I was mistaken, in my mind I had my old Toshiba pictured a 2004 Satellite running XP SP3 that I use as a desktop ( display quit on me like 5 months ago ) backup for work (outlook) eMails and to print in an old dot matrix printer. That one works fine but can't really use it in the truck without a display obviously.

Anyway Cable arrived and it works perfectly at first try in my newer Toshiba Windows 8 ( that of course don't have a serial port ) and via the USB 3.0 ( rolledover send the cable along with the serial USB adapter ) nothing to configure and nothing to change in the laptop. EAS Fault / 35 MPH Max message cleared, system charging right now to lift it out... of course the problem is still there, most likely leak on the rear air springs so I will order a pair.

pwood999... thanks also for your suggestion, looks like rolledover send me a decent one, I think he got everything time ago from Storey W. I didn't need to load any drivers.

Thanks again to all of you for your help... I will be bothering you again shortly for sure.

Regards

Raul

 

[pato69mx]

Some update on this... after clearing the EAS fault I did run the compressor for like 15 min just to confirm everything was like before ( not ok but kind of working ) and it did not raised a 10th on and inch... let te compressor rest like for 5 min and ran it again for 10... nothing at all. I contacted rolledover and he recommended like it seems I have no leaks on the VB to take the Compressor and check it out... well it looks I had an issue there...

 

[leftlanetruckin]

Raul,
Even when everything is working perfectly, there are a few additions that give LOTS of piece of mind.
A gauge to show the tank pressure. Tells you if the compressor is working or not.
A Rover Raiser from Scotty. For when all else fails
An EAS Buddy from BBS to throw and leave in the glove box. Handier than any computer stuff, and simply works.
If you want to get really into it, a Viair compressor plumbed into it all to inflate the tank from empty in under 2 minutes vs the 8 minutes it takes the stock junk to perform the same job.
If you need pics of any of the above mods, let me know.

Martin

 

[pato69mx]

Compressor Seal job done ( Thanks Scotty ), Compressor back in the truck and... with completely discharged system and 5-6 min run it went from bumps to extended with no issues...



took it out, went down auto from extended to normal, took it out to HWY 77 and went down from normal to HWY... got out and raised auto back to normal... etc.. etc... air pressure is better than ever... hope the get the rear springs by next weekend so I can change those....

BTW I can believe this trick worked like a charm... who came up with it???



Thanks to you all... you saved me AGAIN.

 

[pato69mx]

Raul,
Even when everything is working perfectly, there are a few additions that give LOTS of piece of mind.
A gauge to show the tank pressure. Tells you if the compressor is working or not.
A Rover Raiser from Scotty. For when all else fails
An EAS Buddy from BBS to throw and leave in the glove box. Handier than any computer stuff, and simply works.
If you want to get really into it, a Viair compressor plumbed into it all to inflate the tank from empty in under 2 minutes vs the 8 minutes it takes the stock junk to perform the same job.
If you need pics of any of the above mods, let me know.

Martin

I will like to say throw'em all but lets go step by step. I will appreciate any info you can give me on the tank gauge... I've been thinking on Scotty's Raiser for a while ( but something comes up always ) and also in the Idea of a second compressor ( that's what you meant with the Viair compressor right ) cause that will help the stock one, make process faster and if the stock one fails the second one can do thye job. I need to do some reading on the EAS, heard about it but haven't really dive in to it. If you were would you start and what next??

Thanks as always Martin, hope to hear from you soon.