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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Today, we had just completed converting the girl to run on eas again. (New compressor, new ecu, but old air springs)
After we started the car, it went high and displayed "eas fault" and Christmas lights on the eas selector. While waiting for new parts to arrive, the car has been converted to coils, the height sensor is not removed.

Any ideas on this problem? Sorry if it's a mess to read. And excuse me for my not so good english.

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Today, we had just completed converting the girl to run on eas again. (New compressor, new ecu, but old air springs)
After we started the car, it went high and displayed "eas fault" and Christmas lights on the eas selector. While waiting for new parts to arrive, the car has been converted to coils, the height sensor is not removed.

Any ideas on this problem? Sorry if it's a mess to read. And excuse me for my not so good english.

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You're gonna want an EAS cable and you can download the free software off the net to reset it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You bought a BRAND NEW ECU?

Or a salvage one?

I reckon a good place to start would be to clear the faults, re-calibrate the ECU (you'll need the calibration blocks) and try again.

Good luck!
 

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Correction, you do NOT need calibration blocks to calibrate your sensors. :naughty:

Take it one step at a time. Build or buy the cable to go with the free EAS diagnostics download. Clear the faults and see what comes back for error codes. Adress them one at a time. There are far too many variables for us to answer your initial post.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Calibration without the blocks with a "new" ecu as per the OP?

Sure..... like how it's done on the Classics?

:lol:
 

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I've done it a couple times on rigs that have come in the shop. You enter generic values, as posted previously in the forums and make minor adjstments form there. There is NO "need" for calibration blocks... ever. Really, folks can stop beating that dead horse that block are "required". Yes some people find it easier to crawl under each corner of their truck numerous times changing our blocks, raising and lowering their rigs etc. However I find it much easier to do everything from the comfort of a standing position without wallowing around on the concrete like some wounded animal.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Uh huh..... I won't argue with that but doesn't look like the OP has done it before and I can assure you it's a scary job for a first timer to do without the blocks and he'll spend MONTHS after wondering if he got it right.

I'll stand by my post- it's better for him to just have the blocks made up and use them. At least for the first few times he re-calibrates his car.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I did this recently for the first time and it took me an hour to do all heights. It was a bit tedious but not difficult.

I used a Nancom Evo 2 - don't know if it is as easy with Storey's software.
 

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The only problem with the calibration block theory (for the OP, or anyone else first time) is they're going to have to get up to speed on what all the profile heights are, what the bit values returned mean etc... problem comes whilst your learning all that you probably would come across the values and could take a stab at them anyway and be pretty close, probably enough to test and adjust from.

Either way the software and correct cable is need to (not necessarily in this order) read the fault (hopefully it will be there, as would some calibration values) rectify it, clear it, see what happens.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
You bought a BRAND NEW ECU?

Or a salvage one?

I reckon a good place to start would be to clear the faults, re-calibrate the ECU (you'll need the calibration blocks) and try again.

Good luck!
Correction salvage, sorry man.. i am looking for the parts to build the eas cable.. already have the software..

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Discussion Starter #11
The only problem with the calibration block theory (for the OP, or anyone else first time) is they're going to have to get up to speed on what all the profile heights are, what the bit values returned mean etc... problem comes whilst your learning all that you probably would come across the values and could take a stab at them anyway and be pretty close, probably enough to test and adjust from.

Either way the software and correct cable is need to (not necessarily in this order) read the fault (hopefully it will be there, as would some calibration values) rectify it, clear it, see what happens.
I already have the software from rswsolutions.com, is that adequate? From my experience scrambling the forum that it can read and clear faults, it could even re calibrate the height settings?

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I already have the software from rswsolutions.com, is that adequate? From my experience scrambling the forum that it can read and clear faults, it could even re calibrate the height settings?

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Yes, it's excellent, I've been driving round for years with a 'salvage' ecu, as long as those (original calibration values) weren't mucked about with you should be fine, but yes you can change those calibration values (I've still yet too).
 

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Yes- ECUs are very tough and hardly go wrong. You should be ok with the salvage one.

My guess is that you'll be fine once you clear the faults and recalibrate the ECU to match your height sensors- at worst you'll need to change your height sensors but that's getting ahead of ourselves. First job is to clear the faults and re-calibrate the ECU- I think you need the blocks, others don't so you make your own decision on that.

Once that's done, see if the fault comes back and what faults those are- hopefully that'll tell us where to go next. I guess that means you'll need your cable... bisa diatur, pak!

Good luck!
 

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Maybe a little too late on this but I found a tape measure from centre of wheel too wheel arch does the job. Figures are never the same on each air bag so dont try and match them.
 

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Maybe a little too late on this but I found a tape measure from centre of wheel too wheel arch does the job. Figures are never the same on each air bag so dont try and match them.
Correct. Easy and much less crawling around under the rig.
 

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Yeh, blocks aren't required.

The software you've got will be fine.
After you've got it sitting correctly, raise and lower it back to the height, read and then save the read heights. They may be a few bits different, but it stops the ecu trying to reach a target height that isn't possible. I've found doing this stops a lot of tinny adjustments by the ecu.

You'll always get the fault 'vehicle has moved' - dont worry about it as its not a problem.

1bit =2mm. Search for p38 eas heights and the measurements will come up.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes- ECUs are very tough and hardly go wrong. You should be ok with the salvage one.

My guess is that you'll be fine once you clear the faults and recalibrate the ECU to match your height sensors- at worst you'll need to change your height sensors but that's getting ahead of ourselves. First job is to clear the faults and re-calibrate the ECU- I think you need the blocks, others don't so you make your own decision on that.

Once that's done, see if the fault comes back and what faults those are- hopefully that'll tell us where to go next. I guess that means you'll need your cable... bisa diatur, pak!

Good luck!
update! I checked the air lines and there are some small leaks, repaired that and it worked! But now, a new fault, and i haven't yet seen this one on the forums, when i want it to go on access mode, it sits on access mode, and fault came up. Turned off for 15 minutes, turned on again after that, eas fault gone. And normal working process. Any idea?

@DarthDude

From indonesia sir? Jakarta or bandung? I want to make eas cable and i have yet to find the correct connector, any idea how to acquire the connectors? Salam dari Bandung pak!

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