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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hmm - strange...

The only thing RAVE ETM says about the doors are that height changes are inhibited whilst any of the doors/tailgate are open - up to 5mph/8kph.

This comes into the ECU on pin 34 (of the EAS ECU connector) AND the delay timer, on pin 5. It's a purple/orange wire.

This is sent from the BECM on C1288, pin 3. The notes I have on this BECM output is that it is grounded when the doors/tailgate are closed, otherwise it's at battery voltage.

This probably isn't the cause of the random height changes etc - but it could be worth putting a multimeter on those pins and checking whether there's a voltage there or not... if there is, then it could be a BECM fault telling the EAS ECU/Delay timer the doors are closed when they're not..

Not sure about the 'ghost' signals though...

The wiring from the EAS ECU to the Valve block driver go direct, there's no connectors inbetween, which could rule out some corrosion issues in connectors!

Keep up posted!

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks Marty. We will check those. It is as if it is getting conflicting commands to both raise and lower at the same time, because when it tries to self level it goes both up and down. Really at a loss here.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hmm

Can you view the live data coming back from the height sensors? If it's not the ECU, or Driver pack - then it does leave things a bit more puzzling..

can you view live height sensor data? what happens if you disconnect the height sensors (one at a time) from the radius arm, and gently move it by hand, does it show a nice linear movement or does it jump around?

If it jumps around, then maybe the ECU looks like it's getting proper data, but then suddenly thinks it's low, puts air in, gets a new value of being too high, takes air out etc.

If they look to be nice an linear, then the only other things I can think of are either a) a corroded connection somewhere that's playing havoc. Either from a height sensor, or to BECM or something... or if there is a slight leak somewhere, then the ECU detects it, (height sensor changes) so it does a self level, and then leaks, levels again etc.

Failing that, and a really long shot... how old is the fuse box, is there any sign of heat, crispyness, brown relays or circuit board under relays? We all know the P38 is very finnicky when it comes to voltage.

If the fuse box is OK, then I'm pretty stumped too!

I definitely think there are probably 2 issues there - one being the ECU changing height with doors open, and the second being the constant adjustment.

There is another option... play some good dance music, and let the P38 dance to it :D (Ok, maybe not!)

Marty
 

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Premium Member
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2,565 Posts
If the driver pack, ECU, valve block and height sensors have been replaced, what the hell else could be telling my suspension what to do>
Not saying it is but just to put it out there as you ask...the actual EAS switch and dodgy wiring. Recalling very rare post's, maybe one or two had reported odd behaviour due to this switch.

But I've no idea either from the info given as there is no real fault finding info or process to go on, hence you have changed a lot of parts to no avail, if you/the shop can't say why your changing something, don't. That said (other than the above items) the driver pack is a known "dancing" candidate, as can be the valve block (perhaps non return valves or diaphragm valve to be specific - i forget).

Not sure what notes are being referred to but just in case you do test that the official documentation states that the signal is ground when the doors/tailgate are open, which is consistent with the rest of the vehicles wiring.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Apologies - Just double checked the BECM doc - and I read it the wrong way round (the text being old and photocopied doesn't help - but I should have double-checked). It is indeed supposed to be Ground to the ECU/Delay timer, when door/tailgate are open and battery voltage when they are all closed..

Sorry if that got your troubleshooting confused!

Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Invaluable information here guys, thanks. I will be relaying all of this to the shop as it is a little past my comfort level in terms of doing the work myself. To be as thorough as possible, I will add that EAS will not adjust with the driver door open, only front passenger and perhaps rear doors, I did not check. However, something else that is odd, I can lock the truck completely with both or either rear door open. So that is obviously an issue, whether or not it is related no one knows.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,235 Posts
do the interior lights come on when you open other doors? Sounds like the door switch has been bypassed (done it myself when I got the "front right door open" message). Check that the interior lights come on when you open those doors.

Martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Definitely sounds like your issue with the suspension changing height with doors open is a door ajar override... I'm away for work for a couple of weeks, and the laptop with RAVE is at home, so can't delve into the ETM at the moment..

Good luck with sorting it out though..
Marty
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Figured I would update everyone here...my shop put in a new BECM and for now, it seems to have cured the problem!!! So far, we have replaced EVERYTHING else. The tech was telling me he was on the phone with people all over the country, and no one seems to have ever heard of this issue, so it was worth posting here. Can anyone recommend a shop in the US who can do BECM reprogramming? My truck has very low miles "odometer error" every time you turn it on and off is going to kill resale value. (looking for someone to reprogram mileage into new/used BECM)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Scotty does the becm programming etc.
Send him a PM and he will walk you through what you need.

Martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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2,064 Posts
I'm amazed that a shop would install the BECM with out programing the millage! I can certainly do that for you, for nominal fee of course. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Guys, they are a fantastic shop and the only competent independent in the area by quite a margin. Anyone who is in the upstate NY area PM me for their info...btw they have charged me NOTHING until we sort the issue...pretty unheard of.
 

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I've just come across this thread (sorry!) and the tell tale signs all pointed to my own experiences which ended up being a faulty drive pack attached to the valve block. I am truly surprised that the problem is with the BECM, UNLESS by replacing the BECM the actual connectors associated with the EAS have been "exercised" (disconnected/reconnected) and they are now mechanically sound once more! I'd be interested to see whether putting your own BECM back causes the old problems to reappear... !!!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
Add me to the list of amazed people too...

I didn't think the BECM could have that much influence over the EAS system, due to it's limited number of connections through to the EAS system...

As Hoges said - makes you wonder if there was a connector with a bit of corrosion on it, or something a bit loose, which has been removed/re seated, as the connectors have been undone, and plugged in again...

Very interesting!

Cheers,
Marty
 

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2000 Range Rover HSE
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23 Posts
If the truck is adjusting itself when there is a door/tailgate open, I can't think how that would lead to the thought of it being a wheel speed sensor? I would have thought that it would point towards the fact that the ECU isn't getting the "door open" signal..

This comes out of the BECM on C1288, pin 3 - Green 16 way connector. Wire colour is Purple/Orange.
This splits and goes to the EAS ECU on C0867 (at the EAS ECU) on pin 34. It also goes to the delay timer/relay - on C0866, pin 5.

Have you checked the delay timer in in place, and none of the connections are corroded? Have you tried swapping the delay timer for another one?

Cheers,
Marty
So, I'm replying to an ancient post, but I was curious about this: Theoretically, if the purple/orange (pin #5 in the EAS timer relay) is switched off with an inline rocker switch,while the car is sitting, it will not self-level. If it is switched off while the car is running, it will operate normally. I will only need to switch it on if I want self-leveling or to hook it up to EAS unlock? Does this sound right?
 

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In your other thread I did wonder and your post in this one makes me think similar. What do you mean when you refer to self levelling? Do you mean adjusting the height when parked or adjusting the height depending on speed when being driven?
 

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2000 Range Rover HSE
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23 Posts
Adjusting while parking. The EAS works perfectly, it's just a slow leak while parked. With the factory relay, the whole car lowers to the axle after a few very cold days, more noticeably the right front. With the 4-pin, it does not lower nearly as much. I know I need to fix a leak somewhere, and I've tried many times to find it. It's a slow leak, nonexistent when the temps are 40F and above, and if I spray soap solution, it seems to seal the leak up in the cold. 2 days ago it was 5F. The front right corner went to the axle in one day, and the car would not raise it until it was driven a bit. I tried running the engine, door open to fill the air tank, but it gradually raised up when the car warmed up.I probably need to fix the valve block when it's warmer out.
Today I'm going to put the factory relay in and cut the wire to the middle pin #5 and see what happens. I'll also try to post some pics somewhere of the car.....hopefully not on bumpstops.
 

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2000 Range Rover HSE
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Just as an update: I have had the pin #5 of the EAS timer relay on a rocker switch, and I only switch it on when I want it to self-level while parked (never). I even left it in the off position and was able to program new heights. I have driven thousands of miles without issues. I've also had great success with my engine mobilizing momentary switch. I was 400 miles from home, with the engine immobilized. I have no remote...just a key. My switch came to the rescue and instantly reset the alarm. That was the ultimate test of that modification!
 
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