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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

My EAS tank appears to loose air, as every time I start the car the pump start running for about 2 minutes & then everything seems okay.
This happens if I park the car for 1 hour or more. How is the connection at the tank input made? does it have normal rubber o-rings?
Pump & valve block were rebuilt , about 3 months ago and all checks say the pump is perfect.

Thanks in advance for your ideas.
 

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I believe the line to the tank has the same collet on both ends, at the valve block and the tank. So are you keeping the height settings? If so then it does sound like your air loss is from the tank side. Running for two minutes isn't that long its just topping it off. What happens if you leave it for days?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry guys. I'm busy with a family member's funeral, will revert soon.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If I remember correctly, the pipes have a small olive on them
I'm not sure about the tank end, but the valve body and bags are FESTO type push-in fittings.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm back guys.
I assumed it's the tank input as whenever on the highway doing above 80 KPH would drop the car to highway height from the standard height. But when I slow down, the EAS blinks the 'standard height' light but good 2-3 minutes too it's unable to get to that height. All this happens while the pump running (I can feel it ) & after a while whole set of lights blink & system goes to 'slow 55 KPH' message. If the tank had enough air this wouldn't have happened.
Error was re-set using RSW software after returning home.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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you could potentially have a weak compressor which is experiencing difficulty building air pressure, when this happens pressure sensor senses drop in pressure here is how: as you reach highway speed vehicle lowers in order to aid aerodynamics this exhaust air from springs only, not the tank. to maintain pressure in reserve tank compressor cycles on and off at all times.

as you exit highway or speed lowers below set threshold, vehicle attempts to reach normal height. stored air in tank exits to air springs, sensor senses loss of pressure eas ecu sees signal and this turns on compressor. ecu expects to see a rise in pressure, if said pressure fails the system sends a message, may set a code and may shut down, specially if compressor has ran too long attempting to build pressure and the thermal protector trips.

on a personal note, I have never had positive and or lasting experience with rebuilding compressors thus do not recommend it, after a 4th consecutive renewed ring failure I decided to install new and never looked back. so far so good.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have rebuilt many compressors for myself and others over the years. It very much depends on where you get the seals from. I can recommend these:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Air-Compressor-Piston-Seal-Kit-E31166030-ANR3731/272849993282?fits=Model:Range+Rover|Plat_Gen:MK+II&hash=item3f87207e42:g:vEoAAOSwstxVGUob&frcectupt=true

They were previously trading as Symlise which many will know, but are now Original_Landyair.

My current compressor was rebuilt with these over 5 years ago and is still going strong. I have had failures with some orange Dutch seals, which seemed to shrink in the bores.
It is also important to examine the cylinder bore and replace it if there is any scouring.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The tank connection is a 6mm line that goes into a brass collet with 2 O rings inside. There is a little rubber nipple over the connection that is easily slid off. I trimmed a bit of the nylon hose to stop a leak, so far so good.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Pump was repaired with new piston, seal & intake filter in Dec last year. Tested it with finger at the output port & it's very strong push.
Why I assume it's the tank is that even after running(by the system 2-3 minutes, if I drop the car to crawl (?) height and then try to get it back to standard height, it won't move unless pump runs again for 2-3 minutes. So it got to be the tank input or desiccator bottom (?) line. Basically, any upward movement demands the pump to run irrespective of whether the pump ran &stopped just before that moment.
But none of EAS o-ring replacement documents/ gurus, talk about tank input o-rings.

any one got a picture of tank input connection, please?
 

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2-3 minutes is nowhere near long enough, you need the pump to run for 8-10 minutes to fill the system fully. Once full, you should be able to drop the suspension to the lowest setting and then up to high and it should do it immediately. Obviously you will be taking a lot of the reservoir capacity to do that so the pump will cut in to refill the tank. Start the car, let it run with the suspension on low until the pump cuts out, which can be up to 10 minutes. If the pump doesn't cut out after 15 minutes, it isn't capable of generating sufficient pressure. Assuming it does cut out, send it to high, it should go up immediately, then drop it to low and back up to high again. If it doesn't lift it up twice in quick succession, then you have a leak and it isn't holding the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
pump stops after 2-3 mts run. Am I to run it via the relay manually, for 8-10 mts?
 

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There's something wrong then. Either it was almost full in the first place or the pressure switch is cutting it off far too soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Let me try manual pumping & see.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
With EAS at standard height and without any faults, removed EAS pump relay and connected it directly.
Pump kept running (engine idling) and after 3 1/2 mts car suddenly went to off road height. the EAS switch top LED blinking and the instrument cluster showing the EAS light. stopped the pump fearing an air bag blow out.
Afterwards, pushed the switch to standard height and car slowly dropped to that height, no error messages. all back to normal.
May be tank input line is partially blocked shifting pump are to all 4 wheels. Can someone explain this please?
 

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May be tank input line is partially blocked shifting pump are to all 4 wheels. Can someone explain this please?
Your description of events doesn't provide enough information. So you ran 12V to the pump and ran it? Did you completely bypass the pressure switch that would keep from over pressure? Seems like a bad plan. I guess you had set the EAS to high mode and had all the doors shut so your were pressurizing the entire system? The pump is connected to the tank high pressure circuit. The airbags only fill when the valve block solenoids are open. The solenoids only open when the actual height doesn't match the requested height from the ECU which is either a standard height or something higher if you switched it on the dash. If you have a situation where the system doesn't seem to be following its own programmed logic, it typically point to a bad Driver Block. But you aren't really explaining the situation well enough to understand.
If you are simply trying to confirm that your compressor and tank are operating correctly, you would allow the pump to run with a door open preventing the solenoids from opening to adjust the height. In this situation, the compressor would pressurize the tank to around 140 psi and shut off. Then when you shut the door, there should be plenty of air to raise to whatever height you want. That's what the tank does, supply immediate air to do whatever is requested. The compressor keep the tank full, replenishing air already used for adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Your description of events doesn't provide enough information.
So you ran 12V to the pump and ran it? yes.
Did you completely bypass the pressure switch that would keep from over pressure? just removed the relay & connect the pump direct. no idea about the pressure sw.
Seems like a bad plan.
I guess you had set the EAS to high mode - no. it was on standard height.
and had all the doors shut - yes. but even with a door open, after about 4 minutes of pumping car goes to off road height and starts blinking the top most LED on the switch.
so your were pressurizing the entire system? no idea.
The pump is connected to the tank high pressure circuit. The airbags only fill when the valve block solenoids are open. The solenoids only open when the actual height doesn't match the requested height from the ECU which is either a standard height or something higher if you switched it on the dash. If you have a situation where the system doesn't seem to be following its own programmed logic, it typically point to a bad Driver Block. But you aren't really explaining the situation well enough to understand.- I'm no expert and whatever I know learnt from this site. My basic issue is whenever the car is lowered, manually or automatically, it won't rise back even with a full tank.

If you are simply trying to confirm that your compressor and tank are operating correctly, you would allow the pump to run with a door open preventing the solenoids from opening to adjust the height. In this situation, the compressor would pressurize the tank to around 140 psi and shut off. Then when you shut the door, there should be plenty of air to raise to whatever height you want. That's what the tank does, supply immediate air to do whatever is requested. The compressor keep the tank full, replenishing air already used for adjustments.-
my system does not do this.
I have tried few times operating the pump manually with EAS at standard height , no faults (with door open/ closed)
and every time after 4 minutes , car moves to off road height & starts blinking the top most LED in the switch with instrument cluster EAS light. Then I stop the pump. Each time I press the switch down to standard height and the car settles at that, no faults.
 

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The only way you can raise when the door is open is to bypass the door switches and energize the valve block solenoids that allow air flow. This shouldn't happen nor should the compressor shut off before you get to 140-ish psi in the tank. I would replace the relay and go to connector C117 under the seat plugged into the EAS ECU. The main page has instructions and RAVE has a pinout. From there, you can run the compressor and check the pressure switch and thermal cutoff switch pin for 12v to find out what is shutting off your compressor. You have multiple things happening that shouldn't so you either have voltage in the wrong place or internal issues allowing air to follow the wrong path. Along with a 12v test light and jumper wires, it might make sense for you to plumb in a pressure gauge into the tank line to see when the pump is shutting down.
 
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