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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone

I had the soft EAS Fault turn into hard fault again. This is the third time, and the dealer can't figure out what is wrong. They just reset it and I'm on my way. I'm thinking about getting the EAS Buddy Box, and am wondering if it really is straight forward.
any input greatly appreciated.
thanks!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have the older version and you simply plug it in and a green LED lights up when it has done it's job.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it's not the valve block, or the bags, or the seals (replaced the seals last time) or anything mechanical. I believe it's electrical. My 20" wheels kick out a lot of vibration at the 50-55MPH range, and it seems to set off the fault when I'm driving at that speed for a lengthy amount of time. I replaced the compressor a couple years back too. The car doesn't ever sag when left on the highest level.
 

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stonecutter said:
The car doesn't ever sag when left on the highest level.
Does it sag at other levels? If so your "bags" are shot. The bags will wear at the flex mark for whatever level they are most used at. Mine never sagged at access, standard or high, but as soon as I dropped to highway level I would drop like a rock and fault. My rig has 130K on original bags, almost all highway. Start checking pther levels over night. If you have a leak it will be cheaper than a new compressor AND fixing the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hi rrtoadhall - I know it's not the bags. Had three different mechanics look at them. The car doesn't sag at any of the levels (tried that already). I really think it's because of the vibration of my wheels. I usually don't drive in traffic time, but when I do and it's at about 50 MPH, sure enough the fault comes soon after. So I think something is shaking or coming loose to set off the fault (soft and hard). I believe that's why the dealer can't replicate the issue.
 

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Second train of thought. If your wheel are vibrating you are beating the tar out of your rig in bushings, shocks and suspension. Have you thought about address your wheel issue first? Most likely your vibrations have or are trashing a height sensor. You can replace bits until you are blue in the face, but if your wheels are out of round, out of balance, tyres squared or whatever your wheel issue may be, you are going to have even more issues down the road.

How recently were your "bags" replaced?
 

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The EAS Buddy is a great investment - the new version not only clears the fault but stores what it is. All you need is a usb cable and you can check the fault on your PC. I would recommend it to anyone with a RR that retains the air suspension.

rrtoadhall is right though, you should get the wheels figured out and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I'll check the wheels when I get the EAS fault cleared. I've ignored it because I use the car strictly for my film business and usually only use it for long road trips. So I'm usually cruising at 75 MPH.
I'm the second owner, so not sure when/if the bags were replaced, but all three dealers I've seen have said the bags are fine.
 

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I remember one of my front brags used to set off a fault at highway speeds taking a left bend. I changed them to Gen IIIs couple of years ago and touch wood *say no more in case the beast hears it*.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the reset worked like a charm. Now if I could only decipher the error codes.
Anyone have an idea?

Code:
1.--Current Faults---->
	FR Signal Incorrect
	Pressure Signal Constantly High
	Pressure Signal Constantly Low
	Vehicle Has Moved
	Faults Cleared
<-END Faults
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Dennis-

I'm wondering why the dealer couldn't replicate or narrow down the issue to the bad driver module. As I said it only gives me the soft/hard fault when there's been heavy bouncing or vibration on the front end of the car. I've been raising and lowering (manually) several times over the past few days after resetting the fault, and get no errors. No sagging on any of the levels. This is why I think it has to be something that is moving and setting off the fault. Maybe there's something I can manually "shake" to replicate the error?
 

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electrical problems are a nightmare, especially intermittent ones... until you find it you'll be losing hair. many times it's just luck that you replace the right part if you can't narrow it down.
 

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I'm wondering why the dealer couldn't replicate or narrow down the issue to the bad driver module.
Because the stealer knows they can just keep taking your $100 for each time you come in on the bump stops. Buddy box, $180 and you can reset it in the middle of nowhere at 3 am if you want to. Driver module IMHO is another wear item, you're going to replace it eventually.
 

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stonecutter said:
Hi Dennis-

I'm wondering why the dealer couldn't replicate or narrow down the issue to the bad driver module. As I said it only gives me the soft/hard fault when there's been heavy bouncing or vibration on the front end of the car. I've been raising and lowering (manually) several times over the past few days after resetting the fault, and get no errors. No sagging on any of the levels. This is why I think it has to be something that is moving and setting off the fault. Maybe there's something I can manually "shake" to replicate the error?
That's a good question. So is why can't a dealer replace o-rings in the valve block or rebuild the compressor? The standard repairs for P38's by dealers seems to be new compressor, new valve block, or new air bags. Occasionally a "creative thinker" will try to convince you to replace the ECU. When Dennis came into the picture and started selling o-rings and compressor rebuild kits (via Rover Rennovations), it changed everything for P38 owners. These along with driver modules are the biggest points of failure in the system. The bags last longer than most give them credit for and then usually start to slowly leak. A good many get replaced unecessarily due to leaks in fittings or the valve block. The dealers seem incapable of finding leaks, they just replace parts. Dennis has dealt with so many problems over the last several years that his depth of knowledge far surpasses any dealer techs that I have run across. When you add the Buddy Box by RSW Solutions into the mix, pretty much no reason to ever go back to the dealer for EAS issues. One last piece of security is a manual inflation system that can be used in emergencies instead of driving on the bump stops. I seriously doubt that wheel vibration is causing the issue unless it is so bad that you can barely keep it on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You may be right about the vibration- as I got the "Soft" EAS Fault today. I've been driving it more just because I'm curious when/how it would happen again. I was just merging highways today, probably at 40 MPH, and the EAS Fault went off. Tree lit up, the whole nine. But didn't got to the bump stop EAS Fault. I made a few more stops for the day, never hit the hard fault. Started out first in the highest position. Stayed that way for a few segments of my journey. Then tried to drop down but had a difficult time doing it, and hit me with a few steady soft faults. Then settled at bottom driving position for the last few stops of my day.
Got home and used the Buddy Box, and here's the codes - (did it twice)
Code:
1.--Current Faults---->
	Faults Cleared
	No Logged Faults
<-END Faults
------------------------------------------------------------
*                                                          *
*                                                          *
------------------------------------------------------------
                                                                                                                                                                                           
2.--Previous Faults--->
	Vehicle Has Moved
	RR Valve Stuck Closed
	Faults Cleared
<-END Faults
So if it is bad driver module, is there no test for this at the dealer? I did have them install the one I bought from Dennis, they told me it wasn't the driver module. Maybe I should have just left it in...haha!
 

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Driver packs rarely have a full time fault. As the issues a faulty or failing module trip are always shown as an error elsewhere in the system they are rarely repalced as the actual culprit. Only after pulling your hair out and banging your head against the wall do most folks finally repalce the driver pack as last ditch effort. So no, there is no test for a driver pack except to replace it with a known good one to rule it out as the cause for errors.
 

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you should look for the dealer's fault codes, not your truck's.
 
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