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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all from Namibia.

The following has happend, I fitted spots on my car and when I was done. Reconnected the battery by this time the car has already lowered to its bump stops.

So when I started the engine EAS HARD FAULT.

Why still don't know.

Did the following.

Tried EASunlock Suite no communication with PC.

tried the Following:

wpr wrote:

About the compressor: if you have a leak somewhere the compressor has to run overtime. It is normal that it wears faster then.
But don't panic too soon. We cannot see the inside of your compressor from here. So what you should do is a small test.

Disconnect the EAS ECU under the lefthand seat. Leave the timer delay in the socket (do not disconnect) and switch on the ignition.
Now the valves cannot work. Nor will the compressor.
Have a look at the female connector and try to figure out pin 1. It is easy if you know that pin 6 has no female metal connector plug
Then start testing step by step

step 1:
Put the volt meter on pin 1 (for the red test rod) and pin 16 (the black test rod) You should mesure 12 volts
step 2:
put the red test rod on 13 and the black on 18
If there is 12 volts, move to step 4
step 3:
leave the tester where it is (pins 13 and 18 )
jump between pin 1 and pin 8
the moment you mesure 12 volts on pins 13 and 18, disconnect the jumper. now your system has 10 bar air pressure (this step should take no more than about 10 minutes)
step 4:
make a 3-way split wire and jump connections between pin 1, pin 26 and pin 11
The left rear should rise
right rear: 1, 26 and 28
left front: 1, 26 and 10
right front: 1, 26 and 27

All 4 corners should be up.
If during this test the raising becomes slow: move to step 3 again

For lowering: same jumpers but replace pin 26 by pin 9

step5:
leave the car overnight and the next day have a look what corner it has dropped. Most surely, that bag(s) is (are) leaking.

Do not connect the EAS computer during the test
After raising and waiting for the result, of course you can take the key out of the ignition and lock the car.

If step 3 takes too long (over 15 minutes), there could be a leak in the blocks, the pipe to the tank or the connections at the air drier or the block exit but most common is a worn out compressor. (check the rest first)

Good luck!!
Step 1 and 2 failed.

I have fitted a bypass system and no leaks on the airbags.

What could have caused the FAULT and what should be the next step?? (coils and springs)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
oh and the eas timer sounds like one of those purple that bug things that attract bugs and fry them.

That happens each time I open the door.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It's difficult to say, but it sounds like you have a bad EAS Delay Timer/Relay. I never hear my EAS Timer and a bad one could cause some of your symptoms.

Have you successfully used EASunlock before?
 

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if the RR lowered to the bumpstops with the battery disconnected ,you have a leak.Probably in the EAS manifold.

If the EAS timer buzzes then I would suspect a relay or power supply problem to the timer.
 

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rangenam said:
oh and the eas timer sounds like one of those purple that bug things that attract bugs and fry them.

That happens each time I open the door.
that's a bad sign- new relay first. you can jumper it to see if the EAS will start working, pin 3-5 ( I think, that's what the #'s are on regular relays, same position but numbers may be different....)

rangenam said:
what should be the next step?? (coils and springs)
NO!!!!!!! that's a last resort, or if personal preference dictates, but don't castrate out of frustration..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i have swopped the eas timer with one I know was working from a friends car. But the car is in hard fault so i cant actually say if that will work.

Eas unlocking software tried it for the first time but only one column gives me FF values, the right column only pp and then nothing..

If i manually jump the relay in the engine bay for about ten minutes the pump runs but nothing happens, should the car lift.?????

My rr is in at the moment to get an ARB bullbar (necessary in our country due to all the game roaming free on our roads here. When it's fininshed ii'll post photos i think there will be a few members that will be interested.

I have put in a manual system which also bypass the valve block in total the car does also stay up, thus nothing wrong with my airbags.

My conclusion is the following.

1. the valve block might be faulty.
2. the dealy timer is faulty, and maybe the eas ecu also


I have to replace all 4 schock absorberes any way. thus 4 coils extra is not going to hurt my pocket more.

Why I have decided on coils is that here in NAM basically everywhere is remote and you can't assitance.

Short story on EAS
When my eas failed I went to the dealer here and, the mechanic that helped me gave it over to the chief mechanic, and after a hour or so the mechanic that helped me in the beginning came back. I enquired why he was away so long and the answer was as follows:


Sorry that I was away so long, I was in trouble with the workshop manager becuase I'm not allowed to help clients with old CARS.

Land Rover's diagnostic computer could not even see waht the Fault was on the car..
 

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Very interested by your ARB bull bar pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do a lot of bundu bashing, and hate all the scratches on the rubber/plasstic bumper.

I have tried looking for one to buy of the shelf and couldn't find any, so here in Namibia if you cant find it we build it.
 
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