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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys,
I was reluctant to write to the forum until I figured I had tried everything but I can't seem to figure it out. The title of the post says it all:

Rebuilt EAS Valve body with new seals
New airsprings everywhere
Upgraded to new high output pump
New diaphragm (aftermarket from Dennis) - Also have original that looks in good shape.
Pressure gauge (again from Dennis) fitted inline

Here are the symptoms: I've read that this new pump can fill the tank in 4.5 minutes. I also figure that since the output is higher than the stock pump it should be faster than the 10-15 minutes we expect from the OEM pump.

In my car, the pump goes from 0-60 psi in about 1.5 minutes
from 60-80 takes another 2 minutes
80-100 takes about 4 minutes
100-110 takes about 8 minutes

and then it just sort of sits there inching up verrrrrry slowly.
I have been able to run the compressor in bursts and then let it cool off and run it again until it finally got to 140 where the pressure switch cut it off, but there is obviously something still wrong. The problem is that I don't know what to do next.

The springs don't leak. I can pull the relay and the car stays up without issue.

The valve block doesn't seem to have a leak. The pressure gauge stays constant when the system is off.

The tank doesn't have a leak. I've checked both the air connection and everywhere else. Also, as noted above the pressure gauge stays constant.

I've used both the aftermarket and the original diaphragm and the behavior is exactly the same. Currently the car has the aftermarket diaphragm installed. When I first put it in, it was too thick and would not allow the car the car to exhaust air to drop the ride height. I've been able to sand a few microns off the diaphragm and it seems to work just fine.
I've checked the diaphragm solenoid. When it is disconnected and the pump is running, air shoots out of the exhaust port. When the solenoid is connected and the pump is running, there is nothing leaking from the exhaust port.

In looking through the schematic on the system, the only other thing in line from the pump to the tank is the dryer. I've cracked that open and while I don't know what I'm looking for in there, nothing seemed to be impeding any air flow.

So, where do I go next?

Thanks in advance.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

You are mentioning new high output pump. Try to have a pressure gauge fitted between the compressor and the valve block and monitor the pressure during pump up cycle.

From what I read you could have the non return valve wrongly assembled making it very hard for the air to flow to the tank. If this is the case the pressure after the compressor before the valve block will be much higher then the pressure in the tank causing all the sympthoms you are describing.

To make sure you have no leaks it is not enough to just have the car staying in position when the relay is removed. Try driving it around the block without the relay timer in and the eas not operational. If you have the tears in the seams of the bags the car stayes up without problem but deflates the bag within meters of driving as the movement of the car opens the tears up.

Regards

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jos,
Thanks for the quick reply!
I have driven the car quite a bit with the relay removed and the system off and the car does not drop. In fact, that is my standard mode of operation. I'll put the relay in and let the car adjust for the load in the car (kids, dogs, groceries, etc) and then pull the relay and drive like that until it needs to be adjusted again.
Regarding the pressure gauge, are you saying to get a 2nd gauge and compare the two readings or simply move the existing gauge from the tank side to the pump side?

Thank you again,

Blue
 

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Hi

If you have a second pressure gauge you could compare the two gauges. If you just put an extra T-connector between the blue hose and the valve block and connect your pressure gauge there you can see what happens. If the pressure goes immediately up to more then 140 psi and stays all the time that high, its the indication you are looking for as it tells that it is difficult for the air to flow from the compressor discharge line towards the tank.

If it all sounds too much work then why not take the valve block apart to check if the non return valves are fitted correctly.

Good luck

Jos
 

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check your relief valve. it's only pressurized when the compressor is running, so it's a PITA to test- you have to remove the compressor and block from the box to access it. hook up the valve block to the dryer circuit and tank, you can leave the airspring lines off for this test. Run the compressor and watch the gage, when it begins to slow down, check the relief valve, it will likely be slowly seeping air out, preventing pressure build-up. I have several spare used available, I don't think they're available new.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dennis,
forgive my ignorance but I have no idea what the relief valve is or where I would find it. I've gone back through the system descriptions and write-ups and I don't find it. Do you have a picture?

Thanks,


Blue
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dennis,
I've done the procedure and the relief valve does not seem to be leaking around the threads. I noticed there are 2 indentations in the top of the valve but I can't tell if those are leaking or not.
Interestingly i did notice a small amount of air coming out of the 4mm port near the diaphragm while the compressor was running. Is this normal?

What's next?

-Blue
 

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Hi

The 4 mm outlet port is the dearating connection of the operation solenoid of the diaphram. Normally during activation of the solenoid there should no air be leaking out here. Is there any air escaping through the silencer outlet? This is best checked by unscrewing the silencer and plugging the hole with your finger if there is pressure build up.

Regards

Jos
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, nothing coming out of the exhaust silencer port. Yeah, I've had the silencer off for a while and nothing leaks there.

What does this mean?
 

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either the small oring around the metal stem is leaking, or the rubber plug on top of the plunger (seals off the hole on top of the stem when energized) is leaking.
 

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shupack said:
either the small oring around the metal stem is leaking, or the rubber plug on top of the plunger (seals off the hole on top of the stem when energized) is leaking.
Well, how do you like that? The small, thin o-ring around the metal stem had slipped during re-assembly. It was twisted and horribly distorted but I took it off, let it sit for a bit while I fretted about getting another one and scrambled through my o-rings to see if I had saved one of the old ones. I came back to the distorted one and it had come back to something more resembling its original shape. Carefully put it back on the stem, re-assembled the unit and no leaks!
0-140 psi in 5 minutes, 25 seconds! I now have a fully functional EAS for the first time in a long time!
Thank you, Dennis! Thank you, Jos!

Now it's time to read up on headliners and cruise control. . .

Thanks again,

Blue
 

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Well, how do you like that? The small, thin o-ring around the metal stem had slipped during re-assembly. It was twisted and horribly distorted but I took it off, let it sit for a bit while I fretted about getting another one and scrambled through my o-rings to see if I had saved one of the old ones. I came back to the distorted one and it had come back to something more resembling its original shape. Carefully put it back on the stem, re-assembled the unit and no leaks!
0-140 psi in 5 minutes, 25 seconds!
Now it's time to read up on headliners and cruise control. . .

Thanks again,

Blue[/quote]
Hey Blue, good to hear been folowing this post having similar issues ,have a spare valve block and had the same thing happen to me. Still the front leaks down so I'm going in again and replacing front valves and also refacing the inlet valve and exhaust valve plunger as per HSE posts.
My originial valve block had the rear drop down ,which i pulled out and replaced with spare one,
I pulled the rear valves apart and also found the thin o-ring had pinched :oops: I was so carefull when reassembling them making sure it seat correctly and kept a firm pressure holding in place when attaching valve base together.
My thoughts are that the new o-ring when new in seat has to make its shape into valve seat as you would be aware when replacing them the o-ring has shaped to a square shape of the seat.So when first energized it may disloge from stem seat of shaft and when reseated pinch on one side causing the leak :think: This happened to the valve block in car now fixed it but still drops ,So i will reface those valves inlet and Exhast and swap a few around and see what happens,also re-do relief valves as i assembled with the grease that Shupack suplied but Hoges has mentioned that they should be sterile :shock: so i will clean and reassemble with new rings .
 

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BigBlue said:
No, nothing coming out of the exhaust silencer port. Yeah, I've had the silencer off for a while and nothing leaks there.

What does this mean?
Hi, BigBlue,

Pls tell me how t identify the silencer? and also hw to remve & replace same.
I too have an EAS issue which needs to check the silencer.

thanks & regds

kapila
 
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