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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

This is my first post here but I've been lurking for a while and you seem like a very friendly and helpful group. It'll be more questions than answers from me, at least to start with. However, I promise to report back on my progress and will post the things I've done so far in due course under a more accurate title.

Whenever I get a repair done I like to sympathetically upgrade the car as I figure I'm paying the labour and don't want to re-visit the problem later. Sometimes this means a stock part, sometimes I pick an upgrade.

The EAS takes 30 seconds or more to re-inflate even after the briefest of stops (fuel etc) so I'm planning to refurbish the whole system with new gaskets and pipework throughout and a leak check of the valve block which seems to be the hub of many problems.

While I'm at it I thought I might upgrade the hoses and fit a set of these: http://www.tawpark4x4.com/instructions/ ... ctions.htm

Question 1: Has anyone used the valves and if so are they any good?
Question 2: What's the absolute best quality hose to use - preferably reinforced I can find lots of 6mm hose but don't know pressure and temperature requirements.
 

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Chas,

the valves you show appear to be set up to bypass the eas system.
Some have fitted these inline with the eas compressor / valve block allowing the eas to be disabled if a probem occurs and revert to a manual inflation.

If your planning to exclude the eas compressor / valve block why not go for a coil conversion?

I would not say it's the best option as mine is working 100% (wait for it, it'll pack in now i've said that)

I replaced the air bags, rebuilt the valve block, repalced compressor and replaced a couple of the air lines (to front bags) easy to do for any diy mechanic.
I'm glad i did, there are many discussions on here which deal with coil v eas so don't mention it or the discussion will continue to go on and on.

The hose pressure is rated at 200 to 300psi. Go with 300psi.

No idea for the temp rating but keep away from heat as much as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm glad you explained that - I had completely misunderstood their purpose.

I'll definitely be keeping the EAS as my Mum is 79 and we need to lower the suspension for her to get in and out.
 

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Regarding the hose, I have tried aftermarket 6mm hose made from a variety of materials - polythene , polyurethane and nylon - hose and fittings are easy to obtain if you do a search for robotics.

IMHO nylon is the best. The original hose is nylon. The other materials are a bit soft and can leak around the o-rings.
6mm oem hose is not expensive from the dealer. I would stick with that.

I have also experimented with other 8mm hose to and from the dryer and went back to the oem pipe which is a pre moulded shape.
The valves you mentioned are only for emergency use. It would be best to keep a set in the glove box.
A decent portable air compressor capable of 150 psi is also a good idea to carry.

Dave
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice I may get a set of those bypass gizmos after all and a compressor is a good idea. I was considering PTFE hoses though from further research I noticed people don't often replace the hoses anyway - an EAS gasket and collet refurb seems a better place to start and is very well documented. I'm also sceptical of the compressor as it was replaced by the previous owner and is really noisy. Other areas were poorly maintained (rusty exhaust, cut and shut catalysts, faulty cruise [vacuum tubes just like the FAQ says], punctured air-con condenser, worn bushes, corroded brake and power steering pipes, old spark plugs) so it looks like it wasn't serviced the way it really should be.

It's in safe hands now... `)
 

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ON another note, can you post a big pretty pic of that range you got there. I think i see the bumpes painted black with upgraded wheels. I have had thoughts of doing this lately
:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, sure. As soon as it's back from the garage I'll take a few photos.
 

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Yes, 6mm Nylon. the only reason to replace the hoses is if they're damaged though. They don't require it for lifespan etc.

A noisy compressor is typically due for a rebuild and a brush-box end bearing repair. both fairly simple and inexpensive.
 
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