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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone. Long time lurker, 1st time poster here.

Having some issues with the EAS on my 96 RR (45k miles) and was looking for some advice.

Everything is working except that when it needs air, the compressor doesn't engage automatically.

The truck will adjust the ride height when has air.

And the compressor works manually.

The compressor just doesn't pump air automatically when needed

We originally thought it was the air pressure switch, but after install still having the same problems.

Anyone have any ideas on this ? I am in NY at the moment, the truck is in mexico with my mechanic. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction since I will have to source parts in USA and bring them down to mexico in my luggage :)

My mechanic says he can do a "mexicanada" and throw in a switch in the cockpit to manually pump the compressor, but that would be a last choice solution.

any help greatly appreciated.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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15 Posts
Hello

Since the compressor works manually , Perhaps the ( Air suspension compressor relay is defective ) or it's not getting a voltage
from it's fuse , both of them are located at the engine compartment fuse box , it's a 30Amp fuse , it might be blown open , or there might be an open circuit between it and the relay , or maybe between the relay and compressor ,

Good luck
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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760 Posts
The first thing to do is check all the electrical connections, get your mechanic to pull them apart, spray with cleaner , and check the tightness, start in the eas box and work back, how are you starting it manually ?
I've had these before where the motor brushes are worn, a tap on the back of the compressor with a screwdriver handle and it started,, just a way to start eliminating or fault finding,,
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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97 Posts
I've come across an identical problem on another car and it was the thermal fuse in the back of the compressor that had gone open circuit. If you put a wire link between the Orange and Black wires and it works, it's the thermal fuse.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,159 Posts
If it runs manually, by jumpering the relay but not under ECU control, then it's almost certainly going to be the thermal switch.

You should be able to check it with a multimeter on a continuity setting and there should be a connection between the black and orange wires. If there isn't, then the thermal switch has failed.

They are replaceable, and are an Airpax unit, part number 67L110 (110 degrees C) or 67L120 (120 degrees C) - I've seen both of them used.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
thanks everyone for the input.

i will update after thermal switch is tested...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,357 Posts
.......... don't put +12v on the orange wire to test it!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi. Sorry for the super late reply. mexico, things happen S L O W L Y . . . .

supposedly not the thermal switch. we are now trying the AIR SUSPENSION HEIGHT CONTROL MODULE UNIT and the Range Rover Air Suspension Solenoid Compressor

they did put in a switch to pump up the suspension so i no longer have to raise it up manually from inside the hood. however, its not automatically leveling which means mom can't get in the car and its riding very high even on the highway, which doesn't give the best ride.

ill keep you guys updated as i get more info. in the meantime, any feedback or flames is always appreciated.... :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Does this mean you have been reunited with the car? In which case, try disconnecting whatever it is they have added and put a jumper between the black and orange wires. No matter what your man is telling you, the symptoms are exactly what happens when the thermal fuse dies.
 

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27,763 Posts
THAT is the best advice yet.

You mechanic is doing you no favours by guessing and having you toss parts at it. The EAS is not complicated. There certainly should never be guess work and a "try this" from a competent mechanic.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #15
sorry for the late reply. I'm in a little fishing village deep in the jungle of mexico, we don't exactly have top techs here. anyway, i think when we were manually lifting the EAS last winter we fried some components..

we put in a new suspension control unit and solenoid compressor. seems to have done the trick, for the most part. the speedo works intermittently and we think that may be tripping the EAS occasionally, we are currently trying to get that sorted.

put a new belt on the water pump.

car gets hot when AC is turned on, but a thermal temp read shows engine temp in normal range. if you turn car off when needle approaches the red, you can restart and needle will be back in the middle. may be an AC leak. strange days. ill let you know what else i find out.

oh yeah, and scanner showing ABS fault code. hopefully this will all be wrapped up within a week or 2.

in the meantime driving the problem free 2005 suzuki vitara (the 2 door model imported from france), not quite as fun but its an indestructible beast and floats over the sand and mud . . . .
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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49 Posts
possible ground issues with the gauges
I have to agree with 95classiclwb. The erratic temp gauge thing you're seeing is a classic symptom of bad grounds in the system. Bad grounds can also affect the EAS operation, although not your particular problem. BTDT. Go through Rave and identify the ground points, especially those on the RH fender inside the engine bay, and clean them up. Check the resistance of the grounds from the battery to the chassis and then to the engine. Even with the mounting points cleaned up you may find that you have resistance due to corrosion inside the cable ends. These beasts are really finicky when it comes to voltage drops. Follow the electrical testing sticky at the head of this section to a T and ensure that you are in specs and many of the idiosyncrasies of our RRs will cease to be an issue.

Note: There are two coolant temp senders located side by side in the intake manifold near the upper coolant hose fitting. The single wire sensor feeds the analog gauge. The two wire sensor feeds an ecu. If you use a good OBDII unit that allows live data streaming you can see what the two wire temp sensor is sending to the ecu (or wherever it sends its signal) to compare to what the single wire sensor is sending to the analog gauge.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #19
I have to agree with 95classiclwb. The erratic temp gauge thing you're seeing is a classic symptom of bad grounds in the system. Bad grounds can also affect the EAS operation, although not your particular problem. BTDT. Go through Rave and identify the ground points, especially those on the RH fender inside the engine bay, and clean them up. Check the resistance of the grounds from the battery to the chassis and then to the engine. Even with the mounting points cleaned up you may find that you have resistance due to corrosion inside the cable ends. These beasts are really finicky when it comes to voltage drops. Follow the electrical testing sticky at the head of this section to a T and ensure that you are in specs and many of the idiosyncrasies of our RRs will cease to be an issue.

Note: There are two coolant temp senders located side by side in the intake manifold near the upper coolant hose fitting. The single wire sensor feeds the analog gauge. The two wire sensor feeds an ecu. If you use a good OBDII unit that allows live data streaming you can see what the two wire temp sensor is sending to the ecu (or wherever it sends its signal) to compare to what the single wire sensor is sending to the analog gauge.
god call. intermittent speedo may be 1 culprit. also found 2 wheel sensors reading funny ? but overall acting much better, at least offload. gonna try and get these last few kinks worked out this month
 
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