I just did this mod and I am so happy to say it worked!!!!! I have been fighting this for 3 years. Just found this post did the work last night and I’m back commanding the streets in my RR Sport Supercharged. I’d already changed over to Coils and Shocks from Atlantic British and this was the last step, besides getting a shop to reflash my system to allow the included module to bypass the suspension codes. I’m through the roof happier. Thanks to all who replied and unfortunately had the same problem for it to usher all owners to a solution.You have a few options here.
Belt routing, and removing the pump is the easy part. Get a drive belt for a NA RRS/LR3(PQR500330) and remove the DR pump and additional idler pulley.
For bars, you can install the passive bars, you'll need new bushings, and brackets/hardware along with new non-DR rear links. The front bar mounts in a different location for the passive setup. If the rear bar wasn't leaking, you would be able to just leave the DR bars in place, and disconnect the valve block, which would prevent any rotation in the bars and put them in a 'locked bar' state. Since the rear is leaking, it would bleed off the fluid which would then allow the bar to rotate, effectively removing any weight transfer in the rear of the vehicle.
If you install a non-DR belt setup, and replace the bars with passive, you would then need to have the CCF reflashed to set it as DR not-fitted, which should remove your warning light at that point. You may have trouble finding someone that can/will do this, and I don't know the full capability of most aftermarket diag systems.
If you do decide to weld up the bars somehow, keep in mind that these bars are much stiffer than the passive bars, and without the system able to function, ride quality may suffer significantly.
Also, I would strongly suggest you reconsider replacing the fan, if nothing else, you will have a check engine light on. The great thing about electro-viscous setups are that it is nearly no engine load, unless higher cooling levels are needed. If you haven't damaged the nut yet, make sure that you're going the right way, NA engines are LH thread, SC is RH - so lefty loosey for you.