[JoeDQ1]

My serpentine belt broke this winter. Struggling to remove the fan clutch and about to take my saw all to it and install an electric fan.

Anyway, the dynamic stability pump appears to be frozen. I knew that there was a leak in the rear sway bar, added fluid for a while and at some point it ran dry enough to lock up so that is my bad. So, I am looking at several parts (that do not seem to be available used) that will total what? 5K?

A little about the truck, it is a 2006 SC Sport with 90,000 miles. I bought it knowing of the leaking sway bar among other issues. But, I paid $9400 a year ago so figured I could spend quite a bit to get it running – a new battery and air tank on eBay and I drove it home. Had I fixed the leak it would have been worth it, but now that I have damaged the pump the entire system likely needs to be replaced. Considering that I couldn’t tell the difference when it was working and empty, I likely do my tearing around in my BMW (as it should be) and not in the truck so thinking it is a luxury I can do without.

I am wondering if there is a means of deleting this pump in order to get it running again?

 

[JoeDQ1]

well, would it be the same belt as used on a 4.2L XK8?

did Land Rover make 4.2L SC Sports in 2006 that did not have stability control?

 

[TheWojtek]

did Land Rover make 4.2L SC Sports in 2006 that did not have stability control?

No, it was factory-fitted to all Supercharged Sports.

 

[JoeDQ1]

OK, I cant be the only one with a 2006 SC Sport that is questioning investing a third of a vehicles value on replacing all the necessary components of the dynamic response system? it doesn't appear that this is a DIY job either as parts aren't really available, You could take the chance on used parts but there is no guarantee that they will work or for how long.

These trucks depreciate like a rock, and maybe rightfully so... but with a GAP tool and the ability to diagnose the never ending faults along with the ability turn a wrench it is still too nice of a truck to be rendered a brick by the failure of essentially an optional bit of equipment.

Further, it is just wrong that the average "Joe" shouldn't be able to work on his own vehicle. Ever since I took my first car to the shop and watched the moron try to pry open the bonnet looking for the engine I drove away and bought a shop manual. I would assume that most of those with more money than brains who bought these trucks in the first place are not looking for solutions here, but if these trucks are going to survive the next decade or retain any value there needs to be options for this issue.

First of all, the easier issue should be the anti-sway bar, anyone know if the suspension for the HSE or the non-supercharged sport is similar enough to the Sport that a swaybar from one of these models will fit? or would the only option be welding the swaybar in place so it is effectively retained in the locked "fault" position when it senses an error?

The second issue would be the belt routing. easiest fix would be someone with a CNC machine taking a weekend and designing a bracket and pulley that would be a direct replacement for the existing pump.... someone owning what they thought was a $17000 truck and facing a $5000 bill to get it rolling again might pay a ridiculous amount of money (for $3 of aluminum). Then maybe there are issues with the computers, but maybe IIDTool could find a way to deactivate the dynamic response options.

Absent someone who makes a living selling aftermarket parts taking the above ideas and putting together a $1999 dynamic response delete package complete with swaybars and pulleys, what else could be done to get my truck driving again? Could the pump be taken apart and gutted so that it would behave as an idler pulley? I guess I have to re-look at the belt routing because I wonder if I could just move the alternator some, maybe slide it forward and run it off the SC belt, I am getting rid of that fan clutch anyway and installing an electric fan.

Any ideas would be helpful thanks!

 

[RoverGuy7]

You have a few options here.

Belt routing, and removing the pump is the easy part. Get a drive belt for a NA RRS/LR3(PQR500330) and remove the DR pump and additional idler pulley.

For bars, you can install the passive bars, you'll need new bushings, and brackets/hardware along with new non-DR rear links. The front bar mounts in a different location for the passive setup. If the rear bar wasn't leaking, you would be able to just leave the DR bars in place, and disconnect the valve block, which would prevent any rotation in the bars and put them in a 'locked bar' state. Since the rear is leaking, it would bleed off the fluid which would then allow the bar to rotate, effectively removing any weight transfer in the rear of the vehicle.

If you install a non-DR belt setup, and replace the bars with passive, you would then need to have the CCF reflashed to set it as DR not-fitted, which should remove your warning light at that point. You may have trouble finding someone that can/will do this, and I don't know the full capability of most aftermarket diag systems.

If you do decide to weld up the bars somehow, keep in mind that these bars are much stiffer than the passive bars, and without the system able to function, ride quality may suffer significantly.

Also, I would strongly suggest you reconsider replacing the fan, if nothing else, you will have a check engine light on. The great thing about electro-viscous setups are that it is nearly no engine load, unless higher cooling levels are needed. If you haven't damaged the nut yet, make sure that you're going the right way, NA engines are LH thread, SC is RH - so lefty loosey for you.

 

[JoeDQ1]

Thank you yes the belt routing was embarrassingly easy, a bit shorter belt and that was done.

I tried every trick I could to get that darn fan off, broke a dozen tools, even the chisel trick... Finally drilled enough holes to be able to break it off. That is good info though about the engine load, I had always removed these from my cars because they sucked power but maybe these are better now and I will reconsider and maybe I can find that part somewhere (not that I let any lights bother me any longer, a GAP tool should come standard with these trucks ?).

 

[redduck]

Four years later, I want to thank everyone for this post! This is exactly what I was looking for. I have a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. I bought the unit with 160,000 miles on it and with in a few months of buying it, the Rear stabilizer bar froze in the open position. Due to the expense, I chose not to replace it but tried to keep fluid in the reservoir just like JoeDQ1 above mentioned. Well last week (198,000 miles) the Anti Roll pump imploded and again at $1400 and no aftermarket options, I'm not investing that much into a vehicle already on it's last leg.

I had the thought of bypassing the pump, but did not know how to figure out what size belt to buy. This post solved that issue in about 5 minutes! I have successfully installed the new belts and just waiting for the battery to charge up (My wife drained it when the secondary belt broke) to see if we are back in business! I'll post back later with the final outcome!

Thanks again for posting your experiences and knowledge!

 

[redduck]

Just wanted to post the results of the Anti-Roll pump bypass project. We have been driving the Rover for a week now and it is working great! The shorter belt recommended above is a brilliant idea!
Thanks to all!

 

[Kory]

What

Just wanted to post the results of the Anti-Roll pump bypass project. We have been driving the Rover for a week now and it is working great! The shorter belt recommended above is a brilliant idea!
Thanks to all!

what size belt

 

[Ade773]

Just wanted to post the results of the Anti-Roll pump bypass project. We have been driving the Rover for a week now and it is working great! The shorter belt recommended above is a brilliant idea!
Thanks to all!

So you deleted the pump by fitting a shorter belt.. Did you leave the whole system in place? Is it still driving as it should?

 

[redduck]

@Kory, sorry I missed your post 4 months ago. Belt part number LR #PQR500330 as mentioned further up in the thread. You can cross reference on google for many alternatives or your local part's store can give you options as well. I Just bought O'riely's house brand as it was the most affordable, which will still outlast my Rover.

@Ade773, I didn't even remove the pump, just bypassed it with the shorter belt. It helped that when my pump imploded, the shaft was angled away from the belt route. I have been driving for 6 months now, even a couple of long distance trips and it works great! I do have the constant suspension dash light on, but it has not triggered any other issues, codes or alarms. I have read that you can have the dealer re-program the vehicle so it thinks it does not have the ACE/DSC, as there were vehicles from the factory without it. But I have not checked into that.

Good luck!

 

[Hugo arturo marquez]

Just wanted to post the results of the Anti-Roll pump bypass project. We have been driving the Rover for a week now and it is working great! The shorter belt recommended above is a brilliant idea!
Thanks to all!

@Kory, sorry I missed your post 4 months ago. Belt part number LR #PQR500330 as mentioned further up in the thread. You can cross reference on google for many alternatives or your local part's store can give you options as well. I Just bought O'riely's house brand as it was the most affordable, which will still outlast my Rover.

@Ade773, I didn't even remove the pump, just bypassed it with the shorter belt. It helped that when my pump imploded, the shaft was angled away from the belt route. I have been driving for 6 months now, even a couple of long distance trips and it works great! I do have the constant suspension dash light on, but it has not triggered any other issues, codes or alarms. I have read that you can have the dealer re-program the vehicle so it thinks it does not have the ACE/DSC, as there were vehicles from the factory without it. But I have not checked into that.

Good luck!

Can i do this to my 2006 range rover sport supercharged v8 4.2

 

[Roman NJ]

Can i do this to my 2006 range rover sport supercharged v8 4.2

Hi. I think this entire post is about 2006 RRS Supercharged.

 

[redduck]

Can i do this to my 2006 range rover sport supercharged v8 4.2

Yes @Hugo auturo marquez, @Roman NJ is correct, my vehicle is a 2006 RRS Supercharged. The engine is still running strong, except now I've got a oscillating thump in the left front drive train. Haven't found the cause yet, but I suspect Wheel bearing, CV Joints, steering rack or who knows maybe differential. That really narrows it down doesn't it? With about 205K miles, I suspect components will be failing one by one!

 

[Hugo arturo marquez]

Red duk mine has 152000 mikes if i do the short belt replacement will it drive safe or it will it mess up the occilation thump ?

 

[redduck]

Red duk mine has 152000 mikes if i do the short belt replacement will it drive safe or it will it mess up the occilation thump ?

Hey @Hugo arturo marquez, Sorry about my last post, that must have been a bit misleading...
The oscillation thump is not related to the belt replacement. It's just a sign of other components wearing out that were probably not replaced based on the maintenance schedule.

The engine is still going strong and does not rely on the ACE/DSC pump to function. The stability control was simply an option offered on some vehicles, so a RRS will certainly run and drive just fine without it. Good luck in your project!

 

[PaulZ]

Good day! I have just purchased an RRS 4.2 SC 2008 with a mileage of 210 thousand kilometers. For a long time I chose a car between 4.4 AJ (448pn) and 4.2 SC (428ps). The presence of ACE scared me with constant repairs and expensive replacement (rear bar). On 4.4, such an ACE was very rarely installed, and I planned to buy it (without ACE). But a friend said that he urgently sells 4.2 SC in good technical condition and I made a choice. I had the opportunity to compare the two engines 4.4 and 4.2SC and I understood that they are geometrically the same (except for the supercharger drive and the ACE pump itself) and the shorter belt from 4.4 should fit on 4.2SC. I don't have a garage, and the LR carservice told me that it couldn't be replaced. Then I found this thread in the forum, forwarded the link to them, and the day after tomorrow I will remove the ACE from my good RRS (the rear active-bar is already leaks a little bit again). Six years later - Thanks to everyone who participated in the discussion, the expert who gave advice and the author who started the discussion and informed about the result! You are the bests!

 

[RCvic]

I'm having the same problem with my 2005 4.2litre Supercharged RR Sport and wondering if this works for mine to.

 

[CuttyCalhoun]

You have a few options here.

Belt routing, and removing the pump is the easy part. Get a drive belt for a NA RRS/LR3(PQR500330) and remove the DR pump and additional idler pulley.

For bars, you can install the passive bars, you'll need new bushings, and brackets/hardware along with new non-DR rear links. The front bar mounts in a different location for the passive setup. If the rear bar wasn't leaking, you would be able to just leave the DR bars in place, and disconnect the valve block, which would prevent any rotation in the bars and put them in a 'locked bar' state. Since the rear is leaking, it would bleed off the fluid which would then allow the bar to rotate, effectively removing any weight transfer in the rear of the vehicle.

If you install a non-DR belt setup, and replace the bars with passive, you would then need to have the CCF reflashed to set it as DR not-fitted, which should remove your warning light at that point. You may have trouble finding someone that can/will do this, and I don't know the full capability of most aftermarket diag systems.

If you do decide to weld up the bars somehow, keep in mind that these bars are much stiffer than the passive bars, and without the system able to function, ride quality may suffer significantly.

Also, I would strongly suggest you reconsider replacing the fan, if nothing else, you will have a check engine light on. The great thing about electro-viscous setups are that it is nearly no engine load, unless higher cooling levels are needed. If you haven't damaged the nut yet, make sure that you're going the right way, NA engines are LH thread, SC is RH - so lefty loosey for you.

I just did this mod and I am so happy to say it worked!!!!! I have been fighting this for 3 years. Just found this post did the work last night and I’m back commanding the streets in my RR Sport Supercharged. I’d already changed over to Coils and Shocks from Atlantic British and this was the last step, besides getting a shop to reflash my system to allow the included module to bypass the suspension codes. I’m through the roof happier. Thanks to all who replied and unfortunately had the same problem for it to usher all owners to a solution.