88 RRC - can you replace the blower fan for the heater without pulling the heater core? PO replaced the heater core a couple of years ago, but the heater fan is grinding and howling!
dumb Q. Heater Blower fan?
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1,155 Posts
No you can’t
You would have to remove the heater assembly
I believe the heater assembly in the 88 is the same all the way through 93
And you have to remove the dash completely
I would suggest maybe trying to get another assembly and fixing it first and do a remove and replace now I could be wrong about the years but I don’t think I am .
I’m sure someone will be glad to let me know I’m wrong
But with that said the dash removal isn’t that bad of a job
Take your time
I have a few broken assembly’s
If you want some pick of one taken apart
I could do that
Good luck
Mike
You would have to remove the heater assembly
I believe the heater assembly in the 88 is the same all the way through 93
And you have to remove the dash completely
I would suggest maybe trying to get another assembly and fixing it first and do a remove and replace now I could be wrong about the years but I don’t think I am .
I’m sure someone will be glad to let me know I’m wrong
But with that said the dash removal isn’t that bad of a job
Take your time
I have a few broken assembly’s
If you want some pick of one taken apart
I could do that
Good luck
Mike
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5,755 Posts
The blower on my old 93 LSE never worked from the day I bought it. I could get it to turn very slowly if I poked it with a long screwdriver but it was so stiff it didn't keep running (and the wiring would smell very warm). Rather than remove the whole dash I got 3 square computer fans, glued them together side by side to make a long fan assembly, connected them in parallel and slid them in through the grille at the front. They may not have had the power of the original fan but worked well enough to clear the windscreen. Once moving they weren't really needed as the ram affect circulated the air nicely.
Mikieman is right. You have to pull the heater core. It's a 4-5 hour job, and not too terribly hard. A little tedious, but not too hard. The good news is that you'll only have to do it once. There is a kit: https://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8844 that has a dayton motor in it that is nearly bomb proof. I installed mine in 2002, and it spools up just as fast, and blows just as hard as it did when installed. AND.... it fits in the oem core box like it's supposed to, without having to scab anything together. Good luck!
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I am in the middle of putting my dash back together again right now, after taking it apart probably halfway to accessing the heater core. I had to spend hours taking it apart JUST to access the foot/defrost flapper to un-stick it. I printed the step-by-step instructions supplied in the Roverparts kit, and followed them until I got to the flapper box. I WOULD NOT attempt this without the instructions. Yes, it’s do-able, but give yourself LOTS of time, and be prepared for lots of swearing and AMAZEMENT that a heater/fan could be buried so deep, and require so many hours of labor for a replaceable item, and at the amount of cheap plastic in what was once the pinnacle of SUV luxury. Once you lift the dash and disconnect the flex hoses to the defrost vents (I am not convinced that lifting the dash off is NOT necessary), ABANDON ALL HOPE of ever getting the hoses re-attached to the outlets. The PO that replaced the heater in mine (that’s the reason I bought it; this job had already been done) abandoned that effort and left each hose un-connected. Amazing that I got any real defrost action at all. I wriggled my hands into each location and connected the hose to the outlet by closing the ½-inch-too-short distance with that aluminum aircraft tape. It should work better than leaving the mis-aligned gap.
Oh, and I had to take a plunge-cutter and cut off an un-necessary piece of plastic on the right side of the lower dash surround, because Land Rover cleverly designed it to have to move laterally over the footwell heater duct, at the same time that it had to move fore/aft over the 1”-long stud it attached to. Piss-poor design all around. The left side uses a simple screw into a clip-nut. Why didn’t they think of that for the right side? Expect to crack the flimsy lower surround either as you remove it, or attempt to re-install it.
Sorry, had to vent, just did this last night. If the heater needs to be fixed it needs to be fixed, just be careful, patient, or pay someone to do it if you have the cash. NOT fun.
Oh, and I had to take a plunge-cutter and cut off an un-necessary piece of plastic on the right side of the lower dash surround, because Land Rover cleverly designed it to have to move laterally over the footwell heater duct, at the same time that it had to move fore/aft over the 1”-long stud it attached to. Piss-poor design all around. The left side uses a simple screw into a clip-nut. Why didn’t they think of that for the right side? Expect to crack the flimsy lower surround either as you remove it, or attempt to re-install it.
Sorry, had to vent, just did this last night. If the heater needs to be fixed it needs to be fixed, just be careful, patient, or pay someone to do it if you have the cash. NOT fun.
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1,155 Posts
To access the blower motor you have to remove the heater assembly
And take it apart the fan is inside
And to get it out you should remove the whole dash
It does take time
It is kinda delicate if ya don’t wanna break stuff
Does it blow ...yes
But haveing heat is awesome
It’s better if you can leave the rover and do the repair over time and not rushed
You need to drop the air conditioning
Assembly as well to get it out
But not rushing is really good
Have fun
Mike
And take it apart the fan is inside
And to get it out you should remove the whole dash
It does take time
It is kinda delicate if ya don’t wanna break stuff
Does it blow ...yes
But haveing heat is awesome
It’s better if you can leave the rover and do the repair over time and not rushed
You need to drop the air conditioning
Assembly as well to get it out
But not rushing is really good
Have fun
Mike
ah screw it, this is how I'm fixing the problem once and for all, and i can move it at will between my RRC and my Defender 110 tithonis
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323549051176?ul_noapp=true
https://www.ebay.com/itm/323549051176?ul_noapp=true
There's also the $70 propane heater option, worked wonders in an old van of mine. Well besides the accidental suicide risk, but whatever.
Do you have pics of your $500 Lemons LWB by chance?
I have tried propane before - 2 issues, 1 - condensation build up as a by product of burning. with the diesel unit, you still have that issue, but if you are pulling air from outside, and venting it outside as well, condensation issue mostly goes away. Also all the propane units i found had the anti tip over units, so every bump, the danged things sghhut off.
I think I have a couple of photos of the old girl. nuthing fancy just a rusted out hulk that just kept on running. Danged cruise control even worked. pushed that unit 4000 miles in 6 days. should have held onto that and used it as a kids beater. I'll see if I can find photos
I think I have a couple of photos of the old girl. nuthing fancy just a rusted out hulk that just kept on running. Danged cruise control even worked. pushed that unit 4000 miles in 6 days. should have held onto that and used it as a kids beater. I'll see if I can find photos
http://www.okierover.com/heatercore.htm
I've done this job once. I have to do it again now my fan has failed.
I've done this job once. I have to do it again now my fan has failed.
Getting ready to do mine. I took advantage of the free shipping from Atlantic British and should have the kit by the end of the week. I’m cautiously excited about the challenge and the hope it turns out ok. I’ve been reading okierover’s blod and AB’s tutorial. It’s just time consuming but not hard.
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