Last weekend I installed a Traxide dual battery kit in my 2013 LR4. Since the layout and install procedures are virtually identical for MY2010+ RRS and LR4, as well as MY2006-09 RRS and LR3, I figured I would share the results here.
The most challenging part of the job (on a MY2010 and newer only) is clearing out the auxiliary battery tray in the engine compartment, which up to MY2009 was free and clear but, starting with the 2010s, is partially occupied by the Transfer Case module, housed in a plastic superstructure for whatever reasons. However, it is possible to safely relocate the t-case module within the same compartment - still protected from the elements - and make enough room for the Traxide kit and an auxiliary battery (I picked an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle AGM, size D34, which fits perfect in that tray.)
The Traxide kit - made in and shipped from Australia - includes everything you need to perform the upgrade on your own, so basically you just follow the very detailed instructions after removing the t-case module, using regular tools. Other than the holes for the 12v sockets in the trunk, no other drilling or modifications are required. It's a bit of a PITA and takes quite a bit of time and patience (it took a newbie like me a good 6/7 hours to finish the project over a couple of days / nights...), the tough part is routing the power cable through an almost impossibly recessed plug on the engine firewall, above the driver's side pedals, under the sills and carpet all the way across the cargo area to install the auxiliary 12v outlets that will power your equipment there: refrigerators, lights, dash cams, etc.
The transfer case module can be relocated on a bracket in the same battery box, which currently holds the alarm horn and is otherwise wasted, found under the brake lines. You need a couple of L-shaped metal braces (I found them at Home Depot in the cabinetry section), nuts, bolts and washers to attach the module, then you reinstall the bracket in its original position. Finally you remove all remnants of the original plastic box that used to contain the module, and reroute the wiring to clear the battery tray. Can't take credit for these photos of the bracket mod as they were taken by Greg, a fellow LR4 owner on a different forum who gave me the "inspiration" to do this as well.
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After relocating the module and clearing the battery tray from all the wires, the installation of the Traxide kit is basically the same for MY2006-2009 and 2010+, just follow the supplied instructions. The photos below show the end result in my car. I added a recessed 12v socket on the RH side of the cargo area to power up my fridge, rewired the original 12v socket on the driver's side to also be powered by the auxiliary battery, and also connected both my dash and rear window cams to the Optima, so that thy can stay on 24/7 without affecting the cranking battery. The kit costs about $430 (including, sockets, new battery bracket, all necessary cables and a new aux battery protection module) to the US. The Optima battery can be purchased for about 170/190 or so.
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The most challenging part of the job (on a MY2010 and newer only) is clearing out the auxiliary battery tray in the engine compartment, which up to MY2009 was free and clear but, starting with the 2010s, is partially occupied by the Transfer Case module, housed in a plastic superstructure for whatever reasons. However, it is possible to safely relocate the t-case module within the same compartment - still protected from the elements - and make enough room for the Traxide kit and an auxiliary battery (I picked an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle AGM, size D34, which fits perfect in that tray.)
The Traxide kit - made in and shipped from Australia - includes everything you need to perform the upgrade on your own, so basically you just follow the very detailed instructions after removing the t-case module, using regular tools. Other than the holes for the 12v sockets in the trunk, no other drilling or modifications are required. It's a bit of a PITA and takes quite a bit of time and patience (it took a newbie like me a good 6/7 hours to finish the project over a couple of days / nights...), the tough part is routing the power cable through an almost impossibly recessed plug on the engine firewall, above the driver's side pedals, under the sills and carpet all the way across the cargo area to install the auxiliary 12v outlets that will power your equipment there: refrigerators, lights, dash cams, etc.
The transfer case module can be relocated on a bracket in the same battery box, which currently holds the alarm horn and is otherwise wasted, found under the brake lines. You need a couple of L-shaped metal braces (I found them at Home Depot in the cabinetry section), nuts, bolts and washers to attach the module, then you reinstall the bracket in its original position. Finally you remove all remnants of the original plastic box that used to contain the module, and reroute the wiring to clear the battery tray. Can't take credit for these photos of the bracket mod as they were taken by Greg, a fellow LR4 owner on a different forum who gave me the "inspiration" to do this as well.
After relocating the module and clearing the battery tray from all the wires, the installation of the Traxide kit is basically the same for MY2006-2009 and 2010+, just follow the supplied instructions. The photos below show the end result in my car. I added a recessed 12v socket on the RH side of the cargo area to power up my fridge, rewired the original 12v socket on the driver's side to also be powered by the auxiliary battery, and also connected both my dash and rear window cams to the Optima, so that thy can stay on 24/7 without affecting the cranking battery. The kit costs about $430 (including, sockets, new battery bracket, all necessary cables and a new aux battery protection module) to the US. The Optima battery can be purchased for about 170/190 or so.
