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· LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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11,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last weekend I installed a Traxide dual battery kit in my 2013 LR4. Since the layout and install procedures are virtually identical for MY2010+ RRS and LR4, as well as MY2006-09 RRS and LR3, I figured I would share the results here.

The most challenging part of the job (on a MY2010 and newer only) is clearing out the auxiliary battery tray in the engine compartment, which up to MY2009 was free and clear but, starting with the 2010s, is partially occupied by the Transfer Case module, housed in a plastic superstructure for whatever reasons. However, it is possible to safely relocate the t-case module within the same compartment - still protected from the elements - and make enough room for the Traxide kit and an auxiliary battery (I picked an Optima Yellow Top deep cycle AGM, size D34, which fits perfect in that tray.)

The Traxide kit - made in and shipped from Australia - includes everything you need to perform the upgrade on your own, so basically you just follow the very detailed instructions after removing the t-case module, using regular tools. Other than the holes for the 12v sockets in the trunk, no other drilling or modifications are required. It's a bit of a PITA and takes quite a bit of time and patience (it took a newbie like me a good 6/7 hours to finish the project over a couple of days / nights...), the tough part is routing the power cable through an almost impossibly recessed plug on the engine firewall, above the driver's side pedals, under the sills and carpet all the way across the cargo area to install the auxiliary 12v outlets that will power your equipment there: refrigerators, lights, dash cams, etc.

The transfer case module can be relocated on a bracket in the same battery box, which currently holds the alarm horn and is otherwise wasted, found under the brake lines. You need a couple of L-shaped metal braces (I found them at Home Depot in the cabinetry section), nuts, bolts and washers to attach the module, then you reinstall the bracket in its original position. Finally you remove all remnants of the original plastic box that used to contain the module, and reroute the wiring to clear the battery tray. Can't take credit for these photos of the bracket mod as they were taken by Greg, a fellow LR4 owner on a different forum who gave me the "inspiration" to do this as well.
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After relocating the module and clearing the battery tray from all the wires, the installation of the Traxide kit is basically the same for MY2006-2009 and 2010+, just follow the supplied instructions. The photos below show the end result in my car. I added a recessed 12v socket on the RH side of the cargo area to power up my fridge, rewired the original 12v socket on the driver's side to also be powered by the auxiliary battery, and also connected both my dash and rear window cams to the Optima, so that thy can stay on 24/7 without affecting the cranking battery. The kit costs about $430 (including, sockets, new battery bracket, all necessary cables and a new aux battery protection module) to the US. The Optima battery can be purchased for about 170/190 or so.
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· Premium Member
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,187 Posts
Very interesting and looks like nice kit w a clean install.

Just curious about something. So, 12V x 20 amps =240 watts DC. What does something like an Engel fridge/freezer draw? I realize its not on all the time, so how long can you run something like that before you run out of juice on the 2nd battery?
 

· LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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11,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Obviously, a great deal depends on how often the refrigerator runs, and that's affected by ambient temperature, how full the fridge is, how often you open it, etc. My 43 Qt. EdgeStar freezer / refrigerator (a cheaper alternative to Engel and ARB) draws about 3.5 / 4 amps @ 12V - when it runs. It's so well insulated, that upon reaching the intended temperature the compressor will run maybe 15-20 minutes per hour on the hottest days under the sun, and much less than that, 5-10 minutes / hour max, in more temperate weather. The Optima battery alone has a stated reserve capacity of 55 aH, so I would expect the fridge to run for at least a couple of days on just aux battery power. With Traxide linking the two batteries automatically, perhaps as long as 4 days or more should be attainable. All I really want is for it to run overnight in Death Valley, and my car still starts in the morning. :lol:

The other advantage of a "smart" battery isolator like the Traxide is that it will detect a low cranking battery and use the aux deep cycle battery to automatically recharge it as necessary.
 

· Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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78 Posts
Very Cool Mod, definitely got me thinking of a way to justify it to myself :-D
 

· Premium Member
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1,264 Posts
Very cool set up Umbertob. Curious if you looked at installing an inverter and 120V outlet than another 12V. Reason is now that you've posted this, being on the road with my equipment, rather than unplugging my cheapo inverter each time I need to restart the RRS, I can always leave it on and have constant power to it. May look at this set up you have , but add the inverter direct from the aux battery. Is the "Optima Yellow Top deep cycle AGM, size D34" also a replacement spec for the main battery?
 

· LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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11,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm actually thinking about an inverter for the driver's side of the trunk, since I already have an always-hot 12v source there now (the factory one, rewired to get juice from the new aux battery.) The battery is smaller than the main cranking one (a bit taller and considerably shorter), so it would fit poorly as a replacement. CCA are a bit lower than the main unit's specs as well.
 

· LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
No deal, but the kit I purchased is not featured on their web site (yet), it's called D3-BS I think, very similar to the D3 Kit B: http://www.traxide.com.au/D3_4_Index/D3_KitB.html - but it also includes a new auxiliary battery cutoff module located between aux battery and 12v power sockets. For about 40 bucks more the new module is a worthy addition I think, as it protects your auxiliary, deep cycle battery from excessive discharge (you can permanently kill even a deep cycle battery by discharging it too much) by cutting the sockets off when it senses a voltage drop below a certain level. The primary / cranking battery is already protected by the main isolator, of course. Email Tim at Traxide if you are interested and he'll give you all the details.
 

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Well shoot! I thought the module handled that for both batteries. :-(

I really wanted the basic kit and rewire the existing rear socket for full time power...but it seems I might have to go D3-Kit B + extra module. Or can you go D3-Kit A and rewire the existing socket (+ extra module)?
 

· LIFETIME CONTRIBUTOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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11,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did rewire the existing socket as well, but kinda wanted one on the other side of the cargo area because that's the side I normally put my fridge on, so it's easier to get to the socket with its power cord (I also like the fact that the socket I mounted is recessed, minimizing chances of accidentally hitting / breaking a connected plug, something I have nearly done many times when using the factory socket on the driver's side of the trunk.) I am sure Tim could configure a kit A + aux battery guard for you if you want to do the rewiring yourself or use the current wiring. Like I said, the new aux battery guard adds $40-45 to the cost of any kit, give or take.
 

· Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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164 Posts
I know, I know, old post being brought back up.

Umbertob, Do you have the PN or application for the hold down bracket? I know it looks factory but also looks reversed from the stock hold down.

Oh and BTW thanks for this article.
 

· Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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480 Posts
I have not seen him on this forum in years (this thread is five years old). Take a look on one of the LR4 forums since that was the last truck he was driving. Also, I believe he has a YouTube site (which has a great video on changing oil in these rigs).
 

· Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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164 Posts
I have not seen him on this forum in years (this thread is five years old). Take a look on one of the LR4 forums since that was the last truck he was driving. Also, I believe he has a YouTube site (which has a great video on changing oil in these rigs).
Yah, I knew it was an old post. i just looked up his last post and it was 2017, I see him on a lot of posts so i figured he was still around.
 

· RIP Our Friend
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27,964 Posts
Umberto was getting very busy with his career, his harem of wonderful children will be in school by now and he moved up to an LR series due the need of seating for 5. In the mix there was move involved
 

· Registered
Current: 2016 Range Rover SC - Previous: 2013 Range Rover Sport SC
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141 Posts
He is dearly missed by some of us old timers. His encyclopedic knowledge of L320s and new releases.
I would add that yours is equally impressive. How do you come by the intricate knowledge of these beasties?
 
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