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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys
I have a 96 diesel p38 with a suspected ecu fault. I can get my hands on a replacement ecu. Is it just a case of plug and play or will it need coding in some way? TIA
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I assume you are talking about the Bosch diesel engine ECU, not the BECM, right?
To answer you question, the ECU does have a code which needs to be read and entered into the BECM before the engine will start. Diagnostics are needed to do this.
The replacement ECU must be exactly the same number or it won't work. Manual or automatic, pre EGR or EGR, with different plugs. There are several variations. A BMW car ECU won't work either.
They are normally very reliable. Exactly what are the symptoms?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I assume you are talking about the Bosch diesel engine ECU, not the BECM, right?
To answer you question, the ECU does have a code which needs to be read and entered into the BECM before the engine will start. Diagnostics are needed to do this.
The replacement ECU must be exactly the same number or it won't work. Manual or automatic, pre EGR or EGR, with different plugs. There are several variations. A BMW car ECU won't work either.
They are normally very reliable. Exactly what are the symptoms?
It was running fine. Then cut out while driving and hasnt started since. It spins over fine has plenty of fuel to the pump but nothing to the injectors. Plugged it in said no codes present. Checked live data readings and they were all over the place.( cps @3866rpm.coolant temp at 85 deg. After sitting still for 34 hr) tried to get back into fault codes and now won't connect to ecu
 

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There is a fuel shut off solenoid in the FIP that acts as an immobiliser unless the code is the same.
It could be the sync. You will need a Nanocom, Faultmate or Syncmate to sort it. What diagnostics have you got?
 

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As Dave said, couldn't be the ECU. check the cut-off solenoid, most of of your symptoms direct to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As Dave said, couldn't be the ECU. check the cut-off solenoid, most of of your symptoms direct to that.
Thanks for you're reply. I've had a syncmate plugged in so sync is all good. Removed stop solenoid taken plunger out and refitted solenoid and still no fuel from FIP is there anything else to check or am I looking at a new fip. Thanks
 

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Couple of suggestions before you think about replacing the FIP.
Sometimes the cam and followers inside the FIP get worn and the hardened surface starts to break up. This deposits swarf that jams the stop solenoid (ELAB).
Take the solenoid off and put a small magnet down into the pump and see what comes out.
After you put it back connect a seperate +ve feed. You should hear a click.
Other suggestions: check fuse box and relays.
 
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