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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Here's your latest challenge! My 2001 diesel auto starts fine from cold, takes a bit of turning when hot but I can live with that. The problem is that when it's started, either hot or cold, when it's put into drive or reverse, the engine stalls unless you press the throttle very slightly (not enough to make the trans thump, just a hundred or so revs) Although I can live with this, my wife can't and refuses to drive it and this is more of a problem than the fault!! Anyone any ideas, please? Thanks in anticipation, G.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,422 Posts
No DSE units over here so no direct experience. I am sure the European Brethren will be chiming in......However, If you look at Rave, and find out the correct RPM, you may find it is not set correctly?
The simple solution would be to turn up the idle speed by the requisite 100 rpms.....If this is possible on the DSE.

Being an P-38, however, I will be stunned and amazed if the solution is that simple.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I'm not sure too much about the diesels, but I know it's all electronically controlled - including the idle, so not a case of just tweaking something to up the idle.

There are a few people on here who know their diesels, so hopefully they will be able to help more.
 

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Start by checking the small vacuum pipe that goes from the fuel filter housing to the inlet manifold - it has a habit of blocking at the manifold end (or even of becoming disconnected completely), so undo it from the fuel filter housing and blow into it. The pipe has an effect on fuelling as it attaches to a vacuum sensor in the fuel filter housing.

Has the car always done this, or is it a new thing?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,410 Posts
+1 on the vacuum pipe, also replace the leak off pipes between the injectors. It is the same 3.2mm pipe. Get decent quality stuff from a motor factors not Ebay.
If that does not solve the problem, adjust the pump timing by rotating it slightly. I have not needed to do it on my diesel yet but others on here can advise exactly how to.
 
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Start by checking the small vacuum pipe that goes from the fuel filter housing to the inlet manifold - it has a habit of blocking at the manifold end (or even of becoming disconnected completely), so undo it from the fuel filter housing and blow into it. The pipe has an effect on fuelling as it attaches to a vacuum sensor in the fuel filter housing.

Has the car always done this, or is it a new thing?
actualy it is not a vacuumsensor in the fuelfilter housing, it is a MAP sensor mounted to the filterhousing. The hose is the connection between the manifold and the MAP sensor
 
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how to check/set pump timing is described in RAVE.

in short... put a micrometergauge in the centre of the pump (at the side the fuellines are connected) with an adapter and check how much before TDC it has its max movement.

a delayed pumptiming allso can be cause of the "hot start issue" partialy it can be caused by stretch/wear of the chain(s), the other part is inside the FIP
 

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actualy it is not a vacuumsensor in the fuelfilter housing, it is a MAP sensor mounted to the filterhousing. The hose is the connection between the manifold and the MAP sensor
I know - i was simplifying! But the MAP is measuring the vacuum in the inlet manifold if we're being picky! :)
 

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how to check/set pump timing is described in RAVE.

in short... put a micrometergauge in the centre of the pump (at the side the fuellines are connected) with an adapter and check how much before TDC it has its max movement.

a delayed pumptiming allso can be cause of the "hot start issue" partialy it can be caused by stretch/wear of the chain(s), the other part is inside the FIP
These are what you need to time the FIP:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301545086971
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251889127291
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the answers, people. The car starts perfectly when cold with no smoke. It also goes quite well for a diesel auto and had new timing chains recently so I don't think it's pump timing. It doesn't do it every time but more often than not. I live in north Devon and surrounded by hills so I think an average of 22/23 mpg isn't too bad. I'm seriously thinking of increasing the length of the rod between the pedal and the TPS just to increase the revs very slightly. It's such a small amount needed that it wouldn't harm the transmission, I'm fairly certain of that. No faults come up on my reader, even after the orange EM light flicked on briefly on a journey on Saturday.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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remove the crank sensor and give it a clean.its mounted under the starter motor. dont undo the bracket as this has to be set in the right place,just the single small bolt that holds the sensor to it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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...and had new timing chains recently so I don't think it's pump timing...
Did the problem exist before the new chains were fitted, straight after, or later?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #15
Did the problem exist before the new chains were fitted, straight after, or later?
Hi. I can't believe how long ago your reply was! Sorry for the delay. I spoke to the original owners son and he said it used to stall occasionally when he put it in drive. It now, more or less, does it every time. I just hold it on the brake and gently feather the throttle pedal when I select drive. Not really a hassle, more of an irritation. I'll repost when I've cleaned the crank sensor. All the best. M.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Any new developments in the case? Found solution?
Mine suddenly started to stall, every time I put it in reverse. Not in D, only R. Just fitted new fuel filter some days before (took some time to get rid of all air in the system), while doing that, I must have teared off the hose for the MAP sensor, but car ran anyway.
The engine ran as well as usual a few days after fiddling with the filter, then suddenly it started to stall when put in reverse. Took off the hose, cleaned it, blowed pressured air through it, refitted. Still same problem. Could it be a rest of air in the fuel system? Filter not tightened enough? Replaced the fuel return hoses some months ago, so they should be ok.
 
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