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2008 Range Rover Supercharged.

The drivers seat cooling works but not the heating (passenger seat both work).

fuses check out okay, reading it sounds like the heating element in the drivers seat might have gone.

Has anyone else came across this? if so how much did it cost to fix at a dealer or how long to DIY?

Thanks
 

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I'm running into to the same thing w my 2011, but the drivers heated seat will work about 50% of the time whereas the cooled drivers seat works every time. Would the heating element sometimes work and sometimes not?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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There is no heating element in these seats. There is a complicated heating and cooling system using two Peltier cells. Lots of previous posts on this. Just search for ”climactic seats” or seat cooling not working. You will get a description of how the system works. Cooling does not work on my drivers seat back so have done the research. Just need to take it apart next Spring.
 

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2011 RRSC
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Really need to read the faults before you go any further. It is probably the plastic duct that has failed connecting the fan to the peltier cell. They crack which causes reduced airflow across the cell causing an overheat. Generally shows up in heating mode but cooling still works. Dealer repair will be pricey.... Dealer list on the seat back heat/cool assembly is $461.00. Plus a few hours labor. If your handy its not a terrible repair and if you shop around you can get it down closer to $300.
 

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concur, check the unit in the seat back for physical damage. Each one has temp sensors and if they're not getting the expected readings the system shuts down. Check on ebay, some time back I found a seller with 6 of the seatback units for $15 each (I don't think he knew what he had) I bought all of them. If you have a diagnostic you probably won't get a code for it, but you can check the live data, if you're running the heat and the temp results are static/erratic it'll point you to the failing unit.
 

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2011 RRSC
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I forget the fault off hand but the text is something along the lines of a fluid leak. I have seen it everytime on mine when this has happened. Imy first round was to epoxy the split in the plastic duct. That lasted a couple of years before the epoxy I chose failed. I have replaced the driver seat back heater on mine and it ihas been trouble free since.
 

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I had the exact same problem - cooled seats but heated would not work. The fan kicked in for about 10 seconds then shut down.

I fixed it last week for about a fiver.

I removed the seat back and could tell straight away what the problem was.

On the heating unit there is a flexible pipe and at the bottom of that pipe there was a massive crack and hole. On removal the whole thing fell apart.

I got some Gorrila super glue and stuck it all back together. Reffited it and it worked perfectly.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hey Fullfat, could you please document how you removed the seat back? I know there are other posts on this but another explanation may fill in some details. Thanks in advance.
 

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I should’ve really taken photos.

The seat back is in two parts. Upper which finishes just above mid point and a lower piece which can be removed with the seat still in the car.

Sit in the back of the car and move the front seat forward and push the recliner forward so the seat back is tilted away from you.

At the bottom of the seat is a piece of material which is hooked into place underneath the seat with two straps. Reach under the seat and stretch them forward to unhook. Lift the material up and hook into seat pocket.

There is a white piece of plastic rectangular in shape under that that needs to be unclipped and removed.

Then on each side of the seat where the spindles for the recliner are you’ll see that the seat back goes around those spindles. You need to bend the side plastics out and then pull the circular hooks off the spindles.

Once free and clear you push down on the top of the lower part of the seat back and it will drop off its clips and come away.

You’ll then have full access to seat heating/cooling unit and if broken should be apparent.

There are no screws, it’s all clips and you need to be delicate. The trickiest part is getting the hooks off the spindles and also getting them back on and being able to push the seat back up and back into position.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks Fullfat. I have read that it is supposed to be a relatively simple maintenance job as there are dust filters that need regular cleaning. Your description seems to confirm that. Now to just avoid breaking any of the plastic...
 

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I think the job is MUCH easier if you remove the seat... It takes about 5 minutes. Also once you're in there you'll see the old assembly is zip tied in various places, my thought is where it's tied doesn't leave sufficient room for the unit to move around under the strain of the seat. As the seat moves under occupancy some stress is put onto the assembly causing it to crack and or the wiring to become damaged (this was the issue every time I've removed one of these). When you refit zip tie it down in places where it can still move a bit and nothing is kinked. Having replaced these several times on various cars mine/friends it has never been a problem again.
 

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Having done this both ways myself I agree in seat removal. Really doesnt take any longer and it is substantially easier to remover the delicate plastic parts when you are not working in a confined space!

I think the job is MUCH easier if you remove the seat... It takes about 5 minutes. Also once you're in there you'll see the old assembly is zip tied in various places, my thought is where it's tied doesn't leave sufficient room for the unit to move around under the strain of the seat. As the seat moves under occupancy some stress is put onto the assembly causing it to crack and or the wiring to become damaged (this was the issue every time I've removed one of these). When you refit zip tie it down in places where it can still move a bit and nothing is kinked. Having replaced these several times on various cars mine/friends it has never been a problem again.
 

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I should’ve really taken photos.

The seat back is in two parts. Upper which finishes just above mid point and a lower piece which can be removed with the seat still in the car.

Sit in the back of the car and move the front seat forward and push the recliner forward so the seat back is tilted away from you.

At the bottom of the seat is a piece of material which is hooked into place underneath the seat with two straps. Reach under the seat and stretch them forward to unhook. Lift the material up and hook into seat pocket.

There is a white piece of plastic rectangular in shape under that that needs to be unclipped and removed.

Then on each side of the seat where the spindles for the recliner are you’ll see that the seat back goes around those spindles. You need to bend the side plastics out and then pull the circular hooks off the spindles.

Once free and clear you push down on the top of the lower part of the seat back and it will drop off its clips and come away.

You’ll then have full access to seat heating/cooling unit and if broken should be apparent.

There are no screws, it’s all clips and you need to be delicate. The trickiest part is getting the hooks off the spindles and also getting them back on and being able to push the seat back up and back into position.
Hi,

I don’t suppose you have any photos of how to dismantle the seat? I have a 2010 seat. I have unhooked the leather from the underneath and can see the rectangular white panel you refer to. But, I can‘t see how it un clips. I don‘t want to brake anything. Then not sure about removing the part around the recliner spindles. Any photos or more detail will be greatly appreciated.

Regards,

Terry.
 
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