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I finally pulled my seat ECU, and happily there was no corrosion. I've got a replacement battery on the way, but I need to pick-up a new soldering iron and vacuum pump.
 

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Be very careful when removing the battery. The holes in the pcb are plated through and it's very easy to lift the upper track (the one on the same side of the board as the battery) when you remove it. Best method is to cut the pins off the battery so you are only removing the pins one at a time.
 

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Gilbert,

Thank you for the warning! I'm a little nervous to touch the board, but I have successfully repaired circuit boards on our old D1. I still have one open option for a professional, and hopefully he'll come through....
 

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Hi all' I have just successfully repaired my seat ecu. I had to replace the battery with a 3.6 nmh plus 3 capacitors a couple of resistors etc. I used a multi meter to check the continuity of the tracks and found that about 4 tracks had been compromised by the batteries decay. These tracks I soldered copper wire form point to point to join the tracks. I have never attempted anything like this before and to reinstall to find every thing working was an amazing feeling.
Cheers, Phil
 

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I have trip this week and my new battery has not yet arrived. I going to throw the ECU back in, but I was wondering if I can remove the old battery and have seat/mirror function "without Memory"?
 

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welp.. I guess i'll resurrect this thread again. You guys got me wanting to bring the old girl back to her glory days, and this is not a huge item on my list, but it is still on my list.

I HATE HATE HATE the design of this ECU in the 95s. I just wish it could be bypassed and still have functionality. Anyway I digress...

So - I pulled the old battery, cleaned the board with some circuit board corrosion cleaner, replaced two resistors and then a new varta battery. I am pretty shi**y at soldering. I understand how to do it, just don't really do it well.

It went into the truck, still didn't work. Took it back out and made a second pass at a few of my solders and tonight i will try it again. I ran continuity tests on some of the suspect circuits over by the battery, and things seem to check out...

Also - I reached out to the aforementioned user to see what he would charge to fix it, and haven't heard back. I think he deleted his account on this site... but I found him on the defender forum.

I am just too cheap to spend $500 with proper parts on ebay to do this.... Anyways here's a few pics... not sure if mine is salvageable. And forgive me solders.. Not pretty but seem to be passing current...

IMG_7118.jpg IMG_7119.jpg IMG_7117.jpg
 

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...Also - I reached out to the aforementioned user to see what he would charge to fix it, and haven't heard back. I think he deleted his account on this site... but I found him on the defender forum.
LOL! I just talked with O2batsea at our monthly HH last night. I even joked with him that I might take him up on a seat ECU, as mine's been sitting in my basement, waiting for me to redo the traces under the ICs. ISTR, Bill charges $250 to fix your ECU, or will sell you a rebuilt one with core trade-in for ~$350? At any rate, he's sitting on about 5 seat ECUs right now on top of rebuilding his Series IIa. He mentioned he may get back to the seat ECUs in the winter, but hopefully he'll get back to you. Did you PM him on Defendersource? He's more active over there. His '94 RRC LWB build thread is over there as well.

Did you remove the IC's to check/test the traces below? Often times, the traces will need repair here as well. Bill will put an IC socket in to facilitate changing ICs down the road, but it's unlikely that only the IC will be bad at that point. Nevertheless, it's still a good idea. Good luck with your project!
 

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Thanks alot for the chime in. I did check the traces, but... this is NOT my forte, so i cannot guarantee my work. HA. that being said. I will wait to hear back from bill. I have always liked this forum, but I feel alot of the old school guys have left it... oh well. Maybe ill get lucky and this unit will work when I get home.

I'll check back with progress as always..
 

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I have the battery now, just need to take the time to pull the board and replace it. I'm a little apprehensive about the soldering, but I have successfully repaired bad solder joints on my window control boards, so I should be good to go.

Also, when I was searching for info I found this on eBay - sort of a semi-modernized seat ECU.

s-l500.jpg
 

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LOL! I just talked with O2batsea at our monthly HH last night. I even joked with him that I might take him up on a seat ECU, as mine's been sitting in my basement, waiting for me to redo the traces under the ICs. ISTR, Bill charges $250 to fix your ECU, or will sell you a rebuilt one with core trade-in for ~$350? At any rate, he's sitting on about 5 seat ECUs right now on top of rebuilding his Series IIa. He mentioned he may get back to the seat ECUs in the winter, but hopefully he'll get back to you. Did you PM him on Defendersource? He's more active over there. His '94 RRC LWB build thread is over there as well.

Did you remove the IC's to check/test the traces below? Often times, the traces will need repair here as well. Bill will put an IC socket in to facilitate changing ICs down the road, but it's unlikely that only the IC will be bad at that point. Nevertheless, it's still a good idea. Good luck with your project!

Thanks PL626 - Bill is doing mine. It was shot. Spot on with the pricing. I appreciate you letting me know about this... sure beats 500 from proper parts...
 

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I'm about to attempt this repair, on removing the driver's seat it was clear that the monkeys had been in there before me, the seat ECU was just laying on a bed of wires and all the relays had been pulled off their mounts and left dangling. Anyways, on opening the ECU case I found that the circuit board was pretty corroded, and one of the wires that presumably belongs in the nearest multi-plug was hanging in fresh air, anyone know which terminal this wire (circled in the pic) is supposed to connect to?

 

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I ran mine without a battery for a few weeks with no issues.
I would be fine with this, as I see the battery as a never ending problem... However. The +side has 2 leads on it, effectively making them a short to the two connections (both wires connect to the +face). Given this, I was thinking I would need to run a wire from one+ on the board to the other. I'm guessing one is the charging source, and the other is the chip (drain). So to feed from power to chip I was going to run a wire. Did you run yours with no wire across the 2 + terminals? Thanks.
 

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Replying to my previous post... I put the module back in. I think it needs the battery. It will operate whatever (mirror, seat motor, etc), but only for about 1.5 seconds, then I think the power supplied is not enough to keep the chip alive, and it cuts out and drops the relay. Then you can press again and move some more. This is with a small post in where the negative was, and a bridge between the 2 positives. Unfortunately, after cleaning and scrubbing the corrosion, I tested all the corroded traces and they are all OK. But the original problem (no drivers front / back motor, mirrors instead) remains... Looked again, checked more, still no good. My corroded 3.6V battery was reading 4.0 volts and can take a direct short and still recover back to 4.0. So it was still good, meaning it is being charged all the time and is acting only as a reservoir for the chip and the memory. There are some traces under the 2 chips, but without taking them off, and given that all others are OK, I'm inclined to not try that.

Anyone have any ideas what to try next? Thanks.
 
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