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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello world,

I'm new to this forum, ;-)


driving a 1995 Classic RR, I had the seat ecu memory not working anymore, over a year ago I took the whole unit out, and had it in my livingroom until enough dust covered it.

Well, a few days ago, I thought I'm gonna finaly order a new 3.6V battery, the blue little Varta one.
I soldered the old battery out, and then thought, why not just replace the old battery with usual NiMh batterys?
I found three 1.2 Duracells and soldered them together. See Pics:







Putting every thing back under the seat, I ran the calibration (Handbrake, Ignition on, press five times the green button, following 2112), see Video.

Cheers, Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well, it worked for about 60km, then I smelled soldering and when I was back home I opened the box, and the red wire was disconected. I don't know if it's because of the 800mAh instead of the 100mAh from the original-battery, or if it's because of the corroded IC's... no idea.
It's Land Rover, you fix a thing and then it works once or twice. Had the same with the Cruisecontrol, fixed it, it worked one day,since then, kaputt :?
 

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The issue is that you put a NiMh instead of a NiCd. Don't mess with stuff you know nothing about ;-) They aren't compatible from a charging perspective.
Get a replacement button cell on ebay and solder it into place.
 

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I recently did this job when I swapped my interior with the one from my parts truck. I removed the battery from the board and dropped it off at Batteries Plus. $20 later they built the battery pack. Works flawless.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Spider, did you provide a new battery for your existing board to batteriesplus, or did you just drop off a battery and they built a whole new board? I have to get this done for my driver seat as well.
 

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I took the original to them and they built the identical battery. They stock the battery. I soldered it on the board myself.
Thanks Spider! Took mine to them Friday, turns out it's only $38 total for the new battery and the labor to solder it. Now let's just hope the corrosion around the battery hasn't ruined the leads.
 

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Good information. I just pulled mine out and as expected found the corrosion beneath the battery. It looks like the circuit board is not too bad, I had only lost a couple of functions. Not really wanting to pay $400 for the Proper Parts replacement how did you repair the circuit board itself? (I need to find a place to do that for me.) Does your seat work without the batteries installed, or are they necessary for any operation?

I over-rode the controls to get the seat to where both my teenage daughter and I could 'share' the position, so I have time on my side to try to fix this.
John
 

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Hello Hormel, From your photo that board doesn't look too bad. I repaired mine almost ten years ago, the seat smushed me tight up against the windshield one morning while I was driving to work `8) The replacement battery was easy to find then using the numbers on the old battery and a google search. I had more corrosion. I cleaned the board very carefully removing all the corrosion and some of the copper track to the battery. Had to replace one of the small orange ceramic capacitors too. Used a silver metal paint pen with a fine tip which is sold to repair damaged tracks on circuit boards, purchased a second pen that is a clear sealer to cover the freshly painted track and the areas where the original track was fine but I had removed original sealer and surface corrosion (might have found these at Radio Shack, not sure now) and soldered in a new battery. I then sprayed it with a light coat of CRC SP400 Extreme Corrosion Inhibitor. I use SP400 all over my Rover; think it is much like Waxoyl. Electrical issues are getting fewer each year. My Memory seat has worked perfectly since then, the spouses #2 button settings are very different from my #1 settings. Hmmmm, I'm probably due to replace the battery again. Wonder if a soldered in socket and a compatible but replaceable battery would be better.

The repair is easy if you take your time, have good light and maybe a magnifier. **** eyes get tired as you get older :?.
 

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Hello Hormel, From your photo that board doesn't look too bad. I repaired mine almost ten years ago, the seat smushed me tight up against the windshield one morning while I was driving to work `8) The replacement battery was easy to find then using the numbers on the old battery and a google search. I had more corrosion. I cleaned the board very carefully removing all the corrosion and some of the copper track to the battery. Had to replace one of the small orange ceramic capacitors too. Used a silver metal paint pen with a fine tip which is sold to repair damaged tracks on circuit boards, purchased a second pen that is a clear sealer to cover the freshly painted track and the areas where the original track was fine but I had removed original sealer and surface corrosion (might have found these at Radio Shack, not sure now) and soldered in a new battery. I then sprayed it with a light coat of CRC SP400 Extreme Corrosion Inhibitor. I use SP400 all over my Rover; think it is much like Waxoyl. Electrical issues are getting fewer each year. My Memory seat has worked perfectly since then, the spouses #2 button settings are very different from my #1 settings. Hmmmm, I'm probably due to replace the battery again. Wonder if a soldered in socket and a compatible but replaceable battery would be better.

The repair is easy if you take your time, have good light and maybe a magnifier. **** eyes get tired as you get older :?.


hi folks
i had the same problems with the seat ecu ..i change the battery...it was bad but there was not damage to the board ..i did the calibration test but nothing happend i could hear the several relays clicking but no movement at all ....before ,seat and mirrors worked in some directions but now nothing...the seat motors are ok and when use the driver seat switch i hear clicks at the ecu but no movement at the seat..when i use the passenger seat switch i hear nothing at the ecu and no movement at all .
any help
 

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ooops, I did it again.... but this time with NiCd Cells... (1400mAh) :shhh:





works so far, only thing I don't know: How to program the Memory, :think: any ideas?
Put the seat in the position you want for preset one, press and hold the green button then press number one. Release both. Move it to position two, press and hold the green button then button two, release both. Done!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Put the seat in the position you want for preset one, press and hold the green button then press number one. Release both. Move it to position two, press and hold the green button then button two, release both. Done!!

Just checked it out, and ........... works! :dance: Thanks mate!!! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hi folks
i had the same problems with the seat ecu ..i change the battery...it was bad but there was not damage to the board ..i did the calibration test but nothing happend i could hear the several relays clicking but no movement at all ....before ,seat and mirrors worked in some directions but now nothing...the seat motors are ok and when use the driver seat switch i hear clicks at the ecu but no movement at the seat..when i use the passenger seat switch i hear nothing at the ecu and no movement at all .
any help
Passenger seat is not connected to the Ecu, only drivers seat.

But it sounds to me as you have no connection from the ecu to the drivers seat. Did you check the connectors?

It's pretty simple technique, it should work, or at least some parts of it...

Where are you located?

Chris
 

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hi there
i am from Greece....i sent the ecu to a friend who does repairs for electronic devices ..for a check ..the connections seems fine to me. anyways l post again when i get it back
 

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I wanted to post a follow up on my seat ECU repair on my 1994 LWB. Initially I thought I would try to repair the board with a new battery and chip. Not being comfortable with repairing the corroded circuit board myself I tried to find someone to repair the board. I couldn't really find anyone to take it on or if they did it they wanted hundreds to do so.

So I decided to buy the modified replacement through Proper Parts on Ebay. The replacement is a new circuit board using my case and wiring harness. Took about a 2 weeks between purchasing, sending my unit in, to receiving the replacement. The new board does not keep the memory function but I don't use that in my other car that has it anyway. I might look for a non-memory seat control and use the cover in place of mine to get rid of the memory buttons.

Installed the ECU tonight and am glad to have all the drivers seat and mirror functions again. Cost was about $350 including with postage each way. Certainly more than I wanted to spend but I needed to get it done and I won't have to worry about further corrosion.

John
 

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Corfuchris
Yep, not cheap, but a calculated choice of my time over getting it done. Of course this is much less than a NOS Unit, those are really expensive.

The ECU gets the new circuit board installed into it (essentially a core) so sorry I have nothing to send.
 
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