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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Fellow Rover Loyalist,

What do you guys guess a drag link and tie rod replacement job should cost in the DC/Northern Virginia area. I have a quote from an indy that is roughly $1,300 which seems really high to me considering the parts for this job are around $300 at best.
 

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That is way high. Order the parts and put them on yourself. It is an easy afternoon job. I forget how much it was for the parts a few hundred should cover everything. The next day take the Rover and get an alignment.

charliet
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've done a few things to my truck and am fairly mechanically competent, but I'm not looking to do this job myself. Do you have any experience on what an indy shop might charge for this job?
 

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What are your local indy labor rates? It took me a couple of hours. A qualified mechanic would be able to do it much faster and include the alignment. 100 for labor and 95 for the alignment??? My best guess.

charliet
 

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Premium Member
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Best thing to do is get a quote from your local dealer.

There is a Jaguar Land Rover RTS (repair time shedule) software they (and indeed we) use, which they use to assess labour charge. Even if the RTS says 1.5 hrs, they will only charge 1.5 hours even if it takes them 3 hours. This will give you a good idea, and also ask for parts prices as well. If your independent is planning aftermarket parts (personally I'd think twice about fitting non-Genuine or OEM steering parts) then take 25-35% off the Genuine Part price the dealer gave you.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
shupack said:
I've been considering this:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-34quot-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1335.html

may be a BIT of overkill, but looks fun.....
the tie-rod would need to be bent around the 3rd member, or possibly moved to the front, as pictured on the non-rover vehicle on that page.
be carefull using heims on a road rig....been there and done it!
i ended up going to 1 ton chevy TRE's on the wheeling rig, and went with DOM tubing for the tie rod/draglink. you can make your own for way less than that "kit".
i think the tubing is 1.5" x .120 wall DOM with tig welded inserts AND the tubing threaded also. all but unbreakable mate. shoot me an email if you are considering any steering stuff, as i have used, broken and redone just about all options mate.... :thumb:
current set up
[attachment=1:5eop38k1]trac-bar-n-ramweb.jpg[/attachment:5eop38k1]
little more of the steering at flex before the hydro assist.
[attachment=0:5eop38k1]steeringweb.jpg[/attachment:5eop38k1]

OP, it took me @1.5hrs to put a new tie rod and drag link on the rangey. in fact, the new one even came with the tre's at the exact length of the old ones! it got taken for an alignment anyways, but needed zero adjustment.....
martin
 

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tell me more about the Heim's on a road-rig? I've been looking at parts, and yes, It's cheaper than the kit, if I buy bulk (getting ideas here :) )....
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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the heims are terrible on road compared to a real tie rod end. any wear at all and they are clunking around, not to mention bumpsteer etc. after the tie rods went in there, i noticed a 110% improvement to the xj.
what i did was get a reamer, and reamed out the pitman arm, and 1 knuckle (the opposite knuckle was the correct size for some reason). tubing inserts i used to get from poison spyder, but they are "restructuring' right now... they can be bought cheap enough anywhere, or i can get you a set run off for very reasonable money too. after that it is just a case of getting the DOM tubing and making the tie rod and drag link mate. i cross drill the tubing and plug weld the inserts, as well as welding all the way around them. i doubt there will be any real gain in the tie rod on a p38, as it is already behind the axle, thus out of harms way IMHO.
if you need to know any more, let me know mate.
i have a stock tie rod for the rangey, so i may compare the taper to the chevy 1 ton tre's i have on the heep....

martin
 
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