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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I swapped door handles due to another outer aluminum lever failure (my 3rd?)... I adjusted the rod on the outer latch a bit tight probably, but tried the door a few times, and it worked like a champ. Then buttoned everything up, closed the door and it wouldn't unlatch using either the inner or outer handle. Then I proceeded to get pretty pissed, wrenched on the outer handle and likely bent the main latch arm as the handle wouldn't return to the collapsed position.

I read online a bit and there was some talk about a lock tab which needed to be pulled up using a coat hanger. Found such tab and wrenched up on it but still no release?? Working and diagnosing in this tight space is nearly impossible.

Here's a video of where I'm at... beginning of video shows me locking and unlocking, and then trying the inner door handle which is obviously doing nothing.

Any ideas?? Or do I admit failure and bring the truck into someone with more patience and a higher hourly rate than myself?

https://youtu.be/o1I4HeaOn8Q
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the attempt, but the door lock seems to be functioning just fine (can see it in the video as well). The door lock actuator has also been removed.
 

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Hey I took a shot
I have in the past got my door stuck
But it was caused from closing the door with the seat belt in it
Good luck
You will sort it out
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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221 Posts
I swapped door handles due to another outer aluminum lever failure (my 3rd?)... I adjusted the rod on the outer latch a bit tight probably, but tried the door a few times, and it worked like a champ. Then buttoned everything up, closed the door and it wouldn't unlatch using either the inner or outer handle. Then I proceeded to get pretty pissed, wrenched on the outer handle and likely bent the main latch arm as the handle wouldn't return to the collapsed position.

I read online a bit and there was some talk about a lock tab which needed to be pulled up using a coat hanger. Found such tab and wrenched up on it but still no release?? Working and diagnosing in this tight space is nearly impossible.

Here's a video of where I'm at... beginning of video shows me locking and unlocking, and then trying the inner door handle which is obviously doing nothing.

Any ideas?? Or do I admit failure and bring the truck into someone with more patience and a higher hourly rate than myself?

https://youtu.be/o1I4HeaOn8Q

If you have not already opened the door…..

From your video push the top rod back (toward the latch) and pull the inner latch handle at the same time. It may help to have someone apply pressure to the outside of the door while all this is going on….

I had a similar issue when I replaced the latch on my RRC. I ultimately, had to adjust the striker as the door was too tight.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the help here. Apparently what happened was that the outer latch was stuck in an engaged position WHILE the door lock was engaged. When this happens the door lock cannot disengage until the outer latch is reset to neutral position. It took a lot of studying my driver's door to realize this. The outer door latch was stuck engaged because I didn't tighten the latch rod enough when I did the door latch swap. How the door became locked during this process is still a mystery.

In order to disengage the latch while the door was stuck in a closed position I had to pull back the top rear corner of the door card, wedge my hand in there to unbolt the actuator so I could gain enough space to access the inner latch area. With the glass up and a 14" piece of 3/8" thru rod and a flashlight I was able to position the thru rod on the inner door latch arm and hit it as hard as I could with a hammer. After a few hits the latch released and then the door could be opened using the inner (functioning) door handle.

Not that I think that description will actually help anyone. The overall key is to study the working door side and figure out what is operating differently on the non-working side. I'm guessing every situation will be totally different and require a totally different fix. That's the beauty of working on these cars, you will never have seen it all! :)
 

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I would say
You sorted it out
Sometimes you just gotta mess with it to fix it
I’m sure you happy to have a door that opens
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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210 Posts
A follow up on this subject.
My 1986 Hiline front door became stuck like this after adjusting the lock mechanism rods. The initial testing with the trims off and using a screwdriver as the striker was faultless. I replaced the trims and closed the door, window was down so I pulled the button up for unlock. Opened - OK. Pushed the button down to lock, couldn't open it using the outer latch, as it shouldn't - OK. Pulled the button up again to unlock. Door now jammed shut. Could not open for love or money, no access to mechanism from inside obviously with the trims in place and the seat there but with the window left down, lucky me, I was able to get a wire down to access the levers. But guess what, absolutely no luck pushing or pulling rods and levers even after studying the passenger door for clues, which by the way is different. looks like door is stuck shut forever - preparing now to ring the wrecker.
Lateral thinking needed. I have to open the door somehow to get in to diagnose and fix it.
Eureka!
The latching striker bolt is visible in the gap between the front and rear door.
My demolition saw with a metal cutting blade reaches the pin nicely, not coming off on the reverse stroke and not hitting the bodywork on the forward stroke.
One minute later, the door is open. Replacement striker bolts from the local wrecker were $1 each.
Turns out that I had over adjusted the rod on the outer latch and for whatever mysterious reason, if the door was in the locked position and I then tried the outer latch, it would enter the forever locked state. Backing off the door latch rod ended the problem.
Go figure?
By the way, to get the cut striker bolt and washers off the door, you will need to grind the remnant bit off the bolt, flush to the washers first as there is a step in the bolt which has been tightened up against the washers.
Cheers all.
 

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I would say you created and sorta solved your own problem....
I would suggest... when you adjust your door mechanism...test it before you put the door back together...
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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210 Posts
I would say you created and sorta solved your own problem....
I would suggest... when you adjust your door mechanism...test it before you put the door back together...
Thanks for the tip Mikieman, sound advice indeed.
So, I'm not that simple. I did test the door several times in all modes before assembling. The trouble was that it must have been just on the edge of working/failing. Even after I managed to open the door and free up the latch by some fiddling, it did not lock up again until I had run it through quite a few cycles.
I didn't think that detail warranted description here.
The main point of my post however was to let others know, that no matter how the lock mechanism fails, you can open the door by cutting the bolt with very little effort and cost.
Glad at least one person has read the post.
Cheers
 

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Thanks
I do read these things...
and try to respond with at least 2 cents worth... your post was good and informative ...,
I liked it..
 
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