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Discussion Starter #21
thanks for that,have account with cpc!,went out this afternoon thought would have a look:idea:,was going to bypass the switch,but the plug looked a bit manky,so cleaned it up and reconected and every thing "seems" to behaving itself!:p.hope it lasts till after my holiday!:-?,

pete
 

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With the door open the switch should be closed so pins 7 and 11 at the door outstation will be joined together. However, pin 11 has a black wire which would suggest it is an earth so maybe some of the mankyness was shorting them out or you had a short to ground that isn't any more since you've been in there moving things around. More likely that than a microswitch as they tend to fail open circuit not closed circuit (so you get no warning on the dash and the interior lights don't come on). If you haven't put the door panel back on yet, have a good look to see if any wires have been chaffing on anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
well that lasted all of one night!:twisted:,well it looks back to the bypass idea!!:-?
just when you think you have it lick'd rr comes back and bite's u in the ass!:naughty:

pete
 

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If you had problems with the window regulator before, then these are known for grabbing the door latch wiring and causing problems. Especially if the wiring to the latch has been removed before for any reason.

Could be worth double checking all of the wiring in the door, as a short on the Door Ajar wire will give the problems you are having, as Gilbertd mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
good point, i have looked at rave but not shore if the switch is closed when the door is shut, ie earthed out?, or open circuit?,your reply sugests that if its earthed out when the door is open?

pete
 

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Yes, that's correct, the switch is closed when the door is open. Pins 7 and 11 of the connector to the outstation. 11 is probably an earth and 7 is the one that connects via the switch to the outstation. Check for continuity between the two and for an earth on the wire at pin 7.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
thanks, will give it a go after work tomorrow if its not pissing it down!:?

pete
 

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I had the same issue: took off the driver door’s panel, found the purple/white wire coming out of the switch, cut and isolated with electric tape. Done!

Everything still works except for activation of the interior lights, and ( my remote fob been dead) if by accident you depress the driver’s door locking knob as you exit the car, it will not unlock automatically when you shut the door, risking being locked out if the key is still inside the car.


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you need be careful cutting wires. why is your fob dead? you know AB sells rebuild kits with new battery cover and Oring since our remotes are water proof, there is also the new button cover. so again, why is your fob dead? Is one of the battery terminals broken off? that can be rigged

what ever reason it dead you can order a new fob case off eBay and sacrifice you old case and move your key an its spring along with remote board and the transponder chip over to the new case.
 

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I had the same issue: took off the driver door’s panel, found the purple/white wire coming out of the switch, cut and isolated with electric tape.
Are you saying you deliberately cut the Purple/White wire? Why? That's the wire that goes to the door ajar switch so if it is cut you'll get no interior lights and, as you say, the possibility of locking the keys in the car. If the switch has failed so it thinks the door is permanently open, replace it.
 

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you need be careful cutting wires. why is your fob dead? you know AB sells rebuild kits with new battery cover and Oring since our remotes are water proof, there is also the new button cover. so again, why is your fob dead? Is one of the battery terminals broken off? that can be rigged

what ever reason it dead you can order a new fob case off eBay and sacrifice you old case and move your key an its spring along with remote board and the transponder chip over to the new case.
I am glad my fob IS dead, some whiz kids with a laptop, copied my fob signal as I was looking my other car at a restaurant, got in, took some valuables and were kind enough to lock it back again.
I only use the old fashioned key on all my cars now .

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Are you saying you deliberately cut the Purple/White wire? Why? That's the wire that goes to the door ajar switch so if it is cut you'll get no interior lights and, as you say, the possibility of locking the keys in the car. If the switch has failed so it thinks the door is permanently open, replace it.
Yes indeed, I live in rural AZ, and it was the logical choice, I have a bigger fish to fry.


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go inexpensive and buy an MGF door lock 2nd hand for £15-£20 then u can play with the one you take out to get it work when the replacement gives out
Can I know the MGF part no, please?

thanks.
 

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Depending on whether you are RHD or LHD you could be very lucky. See https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID019022), LHD ones are on clearance at very much reduced prices. The only difference between an MGF latch and a P38 latch is the cable to the interior door handle is a different length and has a different fitting at the handle end so you just swap over your P38 cable. I bought the brand new LH latch for a LHD MGF (FQJ102292PMA) and swapped the motors and microswitches into my RHD RH latch.
 

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Thanks. Unfortunately my car is RHD and I want is LH front latch. Anyway, if I get MGF front left one of LHD car, it should be okay, I guess.
 

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It will have more microswitches than you need (3 the same as the RH latch on a RHD car) so you may need to modify the wiring slightly but it will work.
 

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Thanks. Let me order n see.
 
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