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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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What year is your rangi?
 

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Hi,

First, remove the door panel and try to see if the wiring is in charge giving you 5/6V continuous.. This will burn every single actuator that you put there... In mine I solve this pulling the power from the back door and putting an universal actuator underneath the original lock, you can pick the power on the pillar between doors, you will see a harness passing from the floor to inside the pillar, open the plastic and look for a orange and a orange with a white strip, if I remember correctly... If the wiring is working ok just buy another back door actuator (ebay or so), disassemble the two and change the motor, you only need to pull out the motor from 2 pins and put back together on the other actuator, don´t need anything special, and this way you save a lot of money :)

Regards,
Sérgio
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have the Actuator used if your interested ..
Scotty
 

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SERSAN said:
Hi,

First, remove the door panel and try to see if the wiring is in charge giving you 5/6V continuous.. This will burn every single actuator that you put there...
Sérgio,

I think you may be onto something when you mention this check... burn out of actuators has been a recurring theme on this forum and I suffered the problem myself until Steve Hill finally (I hope) resolved the problem on my RR a few months ago.

Could you explain in a bit more detail what you know about the problem of 5/6 V continuous power in the wiring? I think it will be of great help to other forum members. What is the cause? Is there a solution that addresses the root cause?

Steve
 

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One easy cause is poor connections. Much like dirty battery cables cause poor charging and starting issues, a faulty connection will easily burn out any component.
 

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Hi,

The cause is simple, it´s a Becm Malfunction. The Becm transmit a signal that activates the Door Outstation, it can happen to other systems like interior lights, lights, alarm, etc... causing a odd behaviour on the car.. I don´t remember what are the wires (the colours) that you have to check but is easy to discover, just pull out the plug and check them, you can´t have continuous power on them. This will burn the lock in a short time... The solution is to change the broken components on the Becm but this is not easy and it's not a job for everyone. I just play safe.. (and cheap) put another 2 universal door lock actuators and connect them to the rear doors, just solved the problem and I fix the front doors with +/- $18... :mrgreen: (Vs. $200 for each locker)

Regards,
 

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SERSAN said:
The cause is simple, it´s a Becm Malfunction.
:shock: BeCMs rarely malfunction causing a door look issue. I am not saying it is impossibility, just very highly improbable. Water ingress into the latch assembly, dust, dried and cracking wires would most likely all come before a BeCM door lock issue. Physical resistance from lack of lubrication also is a cause for the latch parts to burn out. Take care of the easy and most likely issues before jumping to assumptions on major possibilities.
 

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Hi,

http://www.callrova.com/ecu.html

On the old page of callrova they talk about that, now only can read this but... :)

BODY ELECTRICAL CONTROL MODULE (BeCM) - BeCM Unlocking & programming for RANGE ROVER P38 1994 TO 2002 Model Year.

The BeCM, Body electrical control module, fitted to all P38 models, is responsible for monitoring, controlling & supplying power to many of the Range Rover's electrical systems. It's common for causing many issues with the following,

Intermittent or complete failure of,
Lighting system's,
Door locks, mirrors & security.
wipers,
suspension,
Various fault code displays,
Lockouts,
Etc..

Mine have this problem, the constant power is sent to the lock by the outstation.. and this outstations received a constant databus signal from becm. Don´t forget that the most recents P38 have at least 8 years of use, with mud, rain, hot sun and more, it's normal that fails someday :)

Regards,
 

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i am trying to install an after market door lock actuator on my front 2 doors on my 96 4.0 . does anyone know the 2 wires i need to splice in ?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi,

The information below is very useful. I found it on p38rangerover.com


Regards,
Daniel


P38 Central locking faults come in many forms and I will try to explain them all below. When they do arise they often cause the following:
EKA Lockout or Key code Lock out
Air suspension will not move or moves erratically
Puddle lamps stay on or flash
Central locking bounces (Opens and closes of its own accord)
One or More doors fail to operate
There are four main ways in which the Central Locking can fail or Malfunction.

1: Door ajar switch or CDL switch fault sending erroneous signals back to the Door outstation which in turn sends them back to the Becm.
2: A wiring fault between the Door lock actuator and the door outstation or the Door outstation and the Becm. The loom rots along the bottom of the door or becomes snagged on or is rubbed against by the window regulator.It is common where the loom has been left loose after a previous repair either because it has been forgotten about or the securing clip has been broken.
Water is also a big issue with the P38. The loom along the door sill from the becm to Drivers kick panel can often be seen submerged in water. This can be from Leaking Heater matrix orings or a faulty door seal. The Orings being the more likely of the 2.

The Leak must be repaired and the carpet must be dried out. The carpet insulation is very thick and can hold a lot of water. If either the leak hasn't stopped or you haven't dried it out properly you will have constantly reoccurring wiring faults.
A common symptom is - The electrics behave erratically when cold often returning to normal when the vehicle is hot. Return to it the next morning and the Electrics miss behave again.

3: A Faulty becm holds voltage on the signal wires. This constant voltage burns the Door lock motors out.
The Becm has a safety cut out to stop repeated use of the central locking motors from overheating. This can be seen if you repeatedly lock and unlock the vehicle with the fob. The central locking will eventually fail to operate. It restarts after a period of rest which is approximately 20 seconds. As the becm is failing it can not control the over use so the result is one or both of the front Door lock actuators burn out. The vehicle then gives an EKA code lockout and the correct code can not be entered until the offending lock actuators are replaced.

4: The RF Receiver which is located in the boot behind the drivers side panel, picks up stray radio signals and prevents the Becm from staying asleep. The constant battery drain then flattens the Vehicle battery. As the battery voltage starts to deteriorate the Becm starts to malfunction and can damage the locks. It is also common for it to corrupt or change the EMS, EKA and even the fob Codes.

Auto logic users will often see the Becm settings reported as French and Left Hand Drive. This is down to the fact of the becm being Alarmed and Locked Out.

The Rear door Lock actuators are much more resilient to faults as they are driven by voltage directly from the Becm where as the front ones are controlled by serial data through the Door outstations.

 

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I had all these problems and fixed it for $0 and two minutes. Open the door and spray the latch with WD-40. I did all four latches in less than two minutes and all my problems went away.
 
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