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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've created some door limit straps so that the front doors won't totally tweek out the hinges on my '93 LWB... if anyone wants photos and a how-to, feel free to email me:

[email protected]

See ya,

ccec
 

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Hey ccec, welcome to the group. Perhaps you can post the howto and some pics here.
 

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X2 on that.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #4
Hi All,

Just email me and I'll provide the how-to on this one...

See ya,

--ccec
 

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ccec said:
Hi All,

Just email me and I'll provide the how-to on this one...

See ya,

--ccec
That's a nifty idea, but not really how we work around here. Unless you are selling a kit or something there is no reason not to post the "how to". If you are selling a kit of somesort please get setup as a vendor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rrtoadhall said:
ccec said:
Hi All,

Just email me and I'll provide the how-to on this one...

See ya,

--ccec
That's a nifty idea, but not really how we work around here. Unless you are selling a kit or something there is no reason not to post the "how to". If you are selling a kit of somesort please get setup as a vendor.
Sorry about that... been outta touch for awhile. Will post a how-to when my other computer gets up on-line (in the shop).

--ccec
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Posted How-To: Door Limit Straps

Sorry -- it's only taken me about 9 months to get this bit to the board. Also, apologies for no step-by step pics. The words below should get you through.

aking your own door limit straps

I created these out of necessity as the PO blew out the stock limiters.

1. Purchase about 30” of seat belt webbing at upholstery supply or steal from your bombed out 1974 VW beetle sitting in back yard.
2. For each door, cut approx. 12” length (might need to play with this -- so size up amount of door swing/limit distance), fold back upon itself 1” both ends, sew together with strong thread.
3. Insert 3” flat metal stock (comes pre-drilled with two holes at either end) purchased from local hardware store (found next to cabinet hinges).
4. Remove door panel (how-to at Rangerovers.net) and kick panel (3 screws).
5. At approx. 10” from floor height, place flat metal about 1.5” in from door edge (far enough in so when door panel is re-attached, the panel covers your mounting bracket), mark and drill for 8-32 stainless nut & bolt combo purchased at hardware store (you’ll need 4 nut/bolt combo’s and 4 stout, s/s sheet metal screws that will fit into the holes in metal stock – size these screws while at hardware store.
6. Find a suitable location on kick panel to anchor screws for inner mount. Mark and drill. Mount with s/s screws.
7. With tin snips or heavy scissors, cut opening in kick panel plastic to allow strap to feed out from kick panel mounting location.
8. Re-attach kick panel plastic.
9. Re-attach door panel. (BTW -- for any blown-out door panel push tabs, I use stainless screws with cup washers for a good, solid panel mount.)

One strap can hold door from total hinge stress when opened facing steep downhill.

--ccec
 

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