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Harrison, I’m just doing mine now, and I found that I had to file the collar to allow the pin to get into the top hole. Or, does it intentionally make for a tight fit? Also, no bronze bushes in the box with my kit. Thanks, Dave in DC.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Harrison, I’m just doing mine now, and I found that I had to file the collar to allow the pin to get into the top hole. Or, does it intentionally make for a tight fit? Also, no bronze bushes in the box with my kit. Thanks, Dave in DC.
Collar? Can you post a picture?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Collar? Can you post a picture?
Handle is installed already and working fine. I will try to describe:
The diameter of the locking collar is such that when the pin is goes through both holes in the handle pocket, the collar is pushed up tight against the back of the pocket. I filed a small flat on the outside edge of the collar so it wouldn’t push up against the back of the handle pocket. But then I realized that having it tight like that helped hold everything in place so I flipped the collar over, doubt that makes any sense without pics. Anyway, not really an issue, just wondering if it was supposed to be a tight fit like that.

What about the bronze bush? Mine did not come with any.

Thanks again, DB
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I think it's a result of drilling tolerance on the pin holes. Ideally the pin will be fixed, the collar will be fixed to the pin, and only the handle will rotate around the pin. My concern is that if the handle and collar are bound together, and the collar set screw tight to the pin, the pin will be part of the assembly that's twisting.

If the pin continues to turn with every handle pull, it could eventually become loose in the handle cup, as I believe those cups are cast aluminum.

However, the fit of the pin should be tight into the cup. The only job of the collar is to ensure the pin doesn't fall "down" in the case that it does become loose. Ideally, the collar should not rub on the handle, you can loosen it in place and use it for a while. I realized the bronze washer was over complicating things, and started not using them. Have not updated instructions.
 

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Harrison,

Thanks for all the replies on this. In my case, I think your assessment about the drilling tolerance may be spot on. Your handle fits fine with no binding, and I don't expect any issues based on how it all went together.
Bottom line is I am stoked to not have to climb through the passenger side. Also, good to know on the bronze bush.

Thanks and stay safe!
IMG_4910.jpg
IMG_4912.jpg
IMG_4914.jpg
 

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While I understand this is a weak point, I do wonder how ya'll break them. I cannot recall ever seeing this failure in real life. My 1984 door handles are bubbling and I came across a 92 in the local pic-n-pull and removed all 4 door hinges. I am currently swapping out parts to make it look better. All 8 door handles so no sign of cracking.

Does it have to do with how you open the door, maybe greasing up the mechanism more often?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #27
After looking at mine, I can honestly say it's not operator error. Maybe some were cast at a different factory during production, causing this discrepancy? I can only imagine this is a big problem though, due to the number or inquiries I've gotten for handles.
 

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Are they still available? My right front door is showing a tiny crack.I replaced the drivers door handle years ago..Don;t know how to pm.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Are they still available? My right front door is showing a tiny crack.I replaced the drivers door handle years ago..Don;t know how to pm.
thanks
Hi just seeing this! I have the parts to make more, yes-
 

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1995 RRC LWB, 1991 RRC Hunter, 2004 Discovery II, 1976 Series III 109
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@hmacris I’d love to order a full set if you’ve still got the materials to make these.
 

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Just to note, Congleton Service In Vermont manufactures new ones. I haven’t bought those yet but everything else I’ve bought from Congelton on the parts side has been top notch.
 

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1995 RRC LWB, 1991 RRC Hunter, 2004 Discovery II, 1976 Series III 109
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I was getting pretty frustrated with the exterior door handles on my 92 RRC, and found that replacements (typically from ebay, pulled off donor cars) were ridiculously expensive and also, did not guarantee longevity as the same problem likely could occur down the road. I have very little trust for 80s-90s pot metal parts, especially high use, high stress parts like door handles.

We've all see this before, likely:
View attachment 282299

So, I disassembled my drivers front door latch/handle, and pulled the handle out after removing a (very rusty) pivot pin. The pin has a knurled end that is pressed into the handle "cup" (black handle housing) The handle cup is aluminum I believe, the pin was regular steel. It was rusty:
View attachment 282300

I carefully took measurements of the old parts and decided to have a go at making replacements, because these are so hard to find and I can't stand having things break, likely at the worst possible time.

The replacements came out nice, and fit directly in. I made them out of stainless steel and used a straight stainless steel dowel pin. Instead of trying to press fit it into the handle cup, I use a bronze washer and locking collar to ensure the pin doesn't go sliding out. The assembly also sits into the door recess quite tightly, which also prevents the pin from moving.

View attachment 282301
View attachment 282302
Looks pretty stock!

There is an album showing the replacement of the handle and associated videos of operation etc. I have materials to build about 50 of these (they are all welded stainless, super tough) if anyone is interested in some peace of mind!

 
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